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Showing results for tags 'torque converter'.
Found 6 results
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Does anyone know off the top of their heads what the spread is on my torque converter? I'm coming up with two variations ; 10.875“ and 11.750“ I didn't think there were two different ones but I haven't worked on any 4EATs before so I wouldn't really know anyway. Thanks in advance -
Car shudders when coming to a hard brake and then stalls. From what I have found online, it's a known issue with 2010, 11, and 12 Legacy. I took it to the dealership and they say it is a blockage in the torque converter and that it and the transmission need to be replaced - $7500. From posts I have seen online elsewhere, most have replaced the converter ONLY for $1500. Anyone have any experience with this? And can one tell me as to why if both are replaced the cost is so high? -
I just brought my 2012 Subaru in for service. The car would stall as it was coming to a stop - Just under 10-15mph. the Dealer said it is a Faulty torque Converter that needs to be replaced. Is this common on a 2 year old car with 46000 miles?? Might I be suspicious they are misdiagnosing the problem?? Any advice would be welcomed. Thanks Joe -
Hoping someone can help with this situation. I read some of the other threads and they were helpful but my issue isn't resolved. 2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5 non turbo with the 4 speed automatic. We were pulling the engine to take care of the head gaskets and the torque converter slid forward a little but during the engine pull. Caught it and thought we had it reseated but when we mated the engine and transmission up after the head gasket and head work, the engine would not connect to the transmission. Like an idiot, I thought it was the side pins and didn’t realize that it was the torque converter until I had tightened down the bell housing bolts. Of course, the gap would not close. Unbolted it and pulled them apart. Tried to reseat the converter but it just wouldn’t make it the last little bit (in what I think is the 3rd section of the spline). I pulled the converter and I checked the oil pump shaft clip and it is seated fine. I then tried to even seat the converter without the pump shaft to see if I could get it to fit and it would not go on. I read that you can pull the input shaft and install that first BUT my input shaft will not pull out. So, I am stuck and am wondering a couple of things: Did I damage the converter when I tried to mate the engine to the trans and is that why it won’t go on now? Why won’t the input shaft pull out? Everything I have read indicates that it is supposed to just pull right out. What should I try next? I’m hoping someone has some insight or ideas and can help get me out of this mess! Thanks! -
I'm working on a 98 obw. I pulled motor for 4 bent exhaust valves. New valves installed & ready for re-install. I can't get my torque converter properly seated. the inner shaft seats nicely - the service manual recommended 2" + or - is still showing. I've read all the posts on torque converter seating. after many hours of trying - I've come to the conclusion that the input shaft won't make the final push into the torque converter itself. I've tried the TC with no input shaft and it seats nicely. When I try to insert the input shaft into the TC while sitting on the work bench it only goes in about 1/8" - just enough that the splines begin to catch and will actually turn the inter workings of the TC itself - but they will go no deeper. it seems to me they need to go at least 1/2" further than they are. When I look inside the TC, I can see no sign of damage and the splines on the input shaft look perfect. I have not reason to suspect damage. Why do the splines catch - but will go no further? any help would be greatly appreciated. -
Hi all -- I have 290K on my transmission and I've been pretty faithful in keeping up my maintenance, just last week had it serviced and now suddenly I have an error. It came up as a code for the torque converter clutch solenoid. Hubby took it in and didn't get the code number, but the tech said that it was in the valve body. Could a piece of dirt from the flush cause the solenoid to stick? We plan on taking it in to have it diagnosed, I've read that a transmission replacement may be an option at this point. Thanks