I just bought a 91 Loyale TBI 1800 yesterday. ran like absolute crap, but with only 150,000 miles and for 200, couldnt pass it up. so after changing the oil (there was only a quart of sludge in it!!!) and filter, air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, lucas oil, and fuel treatment. oh i also reattached the exhaust manifold back to the head!!! it was loud as hell. its running smooth but feels like its got no compression. it wasnt smoking until i added fuel treatment so well see how it runs after that. its got a ok body thats had a green stripe spray painted on??? and the interior is emaculate. its like driving a marshmellow, but i need a dd cause my current 12 sec car isnt meant for winter. so yea, thats my intro. nice to meet yo all!

You are Welcome! ... Pictures of your subie will be Nice!

heres when i first got it, you can kinda see the grees stripe painted across on the drives side

no its running clean, slow as hell, but clean, and has no more spray paint on it

you can see my other car in the back, its the blue neon. that little moster runs 12's and hopefully next summer itl have some boost to bring the times down. my plans for the subie is make it an all around north idaho monster. i want a good engine with enough power to run at least low 15's, some good meaty tires, brush gaurds, roof rack, kc lights, air compressor, and a wench. but im already tied up in the neon so funds are low.

cool subaru i just bought the same exact car last month. shes getting new heads now tho.

 

are you reffering to the neon in the back running 12's? proof or it didnt happen

cool subaru i just bought the same exact car last month. shes getting new heads now tho.

 

are you reffering to the neon in the back running 12's? proof or it didnt happen

 

well technically it runs 13's, but spray breaks the 12's and i dont have any proof, so i guess it didnt happen... but doesnt really matter. as far as a dd its quick, but competiton wise, 12's-13's isnt really that fast. i just put a big 4cyl in a very lightened car. my subie is either gettin a rebuild w/ turbo, or an EJ.

. . . some good meaty tires, brush gaurds, roof rack, kc lights, air compressor, and a wench.

 

Don't let your wife or girlfriend find out about the wench!

 

Hey, wagon is looking good!

Hey,

 

" after changing the oil (there was only a quart of sludge in it!!!) and filter",

 

An engine with this description it probably pretty nasty inside. Lots of junk.

 

With very little running your oil filter is probably clogged and doing by-pass.

 

What I've done is buy good filter, I use PureOne these days, and clean the filter. I take it off, flush with solvent and compressed air and put it back on. You'll be amazed at the crap that comes out. Last engine I did like this, it was three times of R&R of the filter before it started to clean up.

 

Doug

Hey,

 

" after changing the oil (there was only a quart of sludge in it!!!) and filter",

 

An engine with this description it probably pretty nasty inside. Lots of junk.

 

With very little running your oil filter is probably clogged and doing by-pass.

 

What I've done is buy good filter, I use PureOne these days, and clean the filter. I take it off, flush with solvent and compressed air and put it back on. You'll be amazed at the crap that comes out. Last engine I did like this, it was three times of R&R of the filter before it started to clean up.

 

Doug

 

so your saying i should probably clean out the new filter too. i wont be driving it too much until i start putting my standalone in the neon. but im drivin the neon till it starts gettin cold, no interior, no heater, no heat. or a defroster. im still doing a little research to see if it would be easiest/cheepest to go rebuilt EA82T or EJ. i can get both engines for 150, well the EA non turbo at least, if i could find the turbo i could get it too. so the price of just the longblock isnt accounted

Hi domesticated,

 

What you can do is just look at the oil as the car is driven. If it starts changing colour soon after, gets darker, your filter is probably on by-pass. It is a small filter. You could put a new filter on it at that point, then another, but that could get pricy. But if you're going to replace that engine soon anyway, you might not want to bother with it.

 

I just found the clean solvent and air cheaper than replacing the filter so soon. It just takes a little time and I don't know of any downside.

Doug

no i wont be transplanting till spring at least, i need to make it through this winter. maybe ill run a solvent flush through the whole engine then do the filter thing. thanks for the help

im still doing a little research to see if it would be easiest/cheepest to go rebuilt EA82T or EJ. i can get both engines for 150, well the EA non turbo at least, if i could find the turbo i could get it too. so the price of just the longblock isnt accounted

 

In the long run, EJ, heck even in the short run an EJ will probably be cheaper.

EA82T's are infamous for self destruction, just ask Bill (TheBeastIDrive), or Rob

(Turbone), or any other member who has messed with and EA82T.

Not to mention you'll get twice the reliability (if you get a non-interference

EJ22) and the same power with more low end.

 

And did I mention EJ's can go over 300k without being rebuilt?

 

Twitch

Edited September 29, 200916 yr by Twitch de la Brat

In the long run, EJ, heck even in the short run an EJ will probably be cheaper.

EA82T's are infamous for self destruction, just ask Bill (TheBeastIDrive), or Rob

(Turbone), or any other member who has messed with and EA82T.

Not to mention you'll get twice the reliability (if you get a non-interference

EJ22) and the same power with more low end.

 

And did I mention EJ's can go over 300k without being rebuilt?

 

Twitch

 

well thats sounds reason enough for me. my old 86GL i had (first car) had 365K on the completely original engine. stop driving it cause it got totalled by a douche