new clutch kit. Now slips at high revs in any gear. but i can put it in 4th at a stop with e brake and let it out and car dies. but going up hill most noticable. Checked and there is plenty of free play. So is it just a cheap clutch kit, i really hate to take motor out again.

Did you surface the flywheel? It could have been worn leading to insufficient clamping force, or if may have been resurfaced to the wrong specs - some shops/people don't understand that you have to surface both the friction suface and the PP mounting flange to insure the flywheel has the correct "step" or it won't work as designed.

 

GD

no i did not re surface it.. It looked good not glazed and no grooves. i guess that could be my problem. My buddy helping did not think it was nessacary the old clutch was still working-no slipping when pulled just replaced because engine was out.

Are you sure the pressure plate bolts are tight?

 

The release bearing doesn't hang-up at all on the transmission quill does it?

 

Otherwise, I would suspect the pressure plate is sub-standard quality or the flywheel step was more worn than you thought. Possibly a combination of both.

 

It's not worth saving $35 to just leave the flywheel unless you are really hard up for money. And it's noth worth saving $50 on a cheap clutch kit either. Way to far to go to get back in there if there's a problem.

 

GD

i torqued them to spec, not sure about the release bearing getting hung up. Clutch kit was a 180 dollar sachs new kit. But if i do get in there would i have to get another clutch disc. And defiantly get a new fly wheel. Is there any tests i cant do to know for sure that something is wrong internally before i take it apart again?

Did you surface the flywheel? It could have been worn leading to insufficient clamping force, or if may have been resurfaced to the wrong specs - some shops/people don't understand that you have to surface both the friction suface and the PP mounting flange to insure the flywheel has the correct "step" or it won't work as designed.

 

GD

 

yeah I'm going to have this problem... the cable is all the way tight on my fairly new (newer than his) clutch... I can't complain to the shop cause they did it for free... washed and resurfaced.. well half resurfaced.

I don't know of any "tests" you can do. Unless your clutch cable is too tight then slipping is going to have something to do with the clutch and you'll have to open it up.

 

When you tear it down - check the flywheel step with a caliper or a depth gauge if you have one. There can be quite a bit of wear to the flywheel surface and it may not be immediately apparent. I just replaced the clutch in a Legacy and the flywheel looked like it had a machined step in it but it was all wear - probably .005" to .010" of wear. Not that this would be enough to make it slip, but it wouldn't help matters any.

 

If, for example, your flywheel was improperly machined the last time the clutch was replaced, and subsequently has worn further - leading you to beleive you needed to replace the clutch.... you see where this goes?

 

You HAVE to measure stuff. This is why I own calipers, depth gauges, mic's, dial indicators, etc. Without measurement, you just don't know what will happen when you put stuff together. When I get a flywheel back from the machine guys, I ALWAYS check them. I've never had a problem because I warn them ahead of time that they have to machine the step properly and I make sure they have the right spec. There can't be any guesswork if you want a machine to work properly.

 

GD

ok so i finally got the time to pull the motor again today, the clutch had some wear from all the slipping. So i took it to the parts store and getting a new one tomorrow off of warranty. I want to make sure everything works, this time. Ever since ive owned it, the clutch pedal was never really (springy) so it always came up somewhat slow, but with the original clutch it never slipped so i never though anything of it. But now im trying to figure out why. Is there supposed to be any return springs any where, other then the hill holders little spring. I am going to check to make sure the throw out bearing slides down the shaft nicely, it seams to move freely, but ill try it with more moderate pressure. Taking the flywheel to a machine shop this time. Is there anything else i should check before putting it back together. What about the little clips that hold the trow out bearing, they seam kind of odd, and just dont seam right to me, any pics of how those work would be greatly appreciated

The clutch return spring on a HH equipped car is the HH spring. So that is perfectly normal.

 

What are you not sure about on the TO retainer clips? They are just little spring clips - you can get a new pair at the dealer for a couple $. Not much sophistication there - don't know of any pics for that.....

 

Make SURE you have the flywheel step checked and machined properly.

 

GD

GD, do you have the spec for the step?

Supposedly the regular EA82 flywheel step is .900" while the XT6 spec is .815". Mostly the EA82 flywheel's I've measured were around .800" to .815" though so I'm not sure what's going on with that. I haven't found a clear resource for that information unfortunately.

 

GD

yeah I'm going to have this problem... the cable is all the way tight on my fairly new (newer than his) clutch...

 

the cable needs to be slightly loose when the clutch pedal is released.

 

Cable tight = clutch lightly/begining to be disengaged

I went through this exact same scenario, new clutch in Feb without resurfacing, started slipping in April. Last week i pulled the trans and resurfaced the flywheel, used the old (almost new) clutch disk and it was worse. Replaced the old clutch disk with a new one and it works fine now.

My buddy did some research and he found .906 as a number. Measured the step and it was .900 on my ea81 flywheel.

 

If this clutch doesnt last long like the previous then im going to assume i have a bad pressure plate. We shall see.

 

-Andy