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new parts needed for an LSD conversion?

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I didn't see this information in the other threads. Is it just two side seals that are needed and that's it, and the optional front seal?

 

Wondering if there's a gasket on the rear plate or any other seals/orings I'll need?

i have closed that up with no sealant, rtv , and a stock gasket....it all worked.the nature of the close tolerance of the aluminum to the iron is good enough not to leak.

but the side seals are very importante......they leak like a sieve when they go bad.and at like 10 a peice from the dealer, it is worth it everytime you tear one down.cheers, brian

I used no gasket on the rear cover, I just made a thin bead of RTV. I didnt replace the axle stub seals, cuz I didnt have the patience to wait 10 days for them to come at the Dealership, and the old ones didnt leak, so I just used them... I didnt mess with the front seal cuz I didnt take the pinion shaft out :banana:

 

There's no gasket under the plates that hold the axles stud seals, just the shimms, make sure you get it setup correctly so you dont eat all the gears off the ring and pinion...

 

-Bill

  • Author

Dealer had a hard time locating the part number for the rear differential side seals and I couldn't verify them on line.

 

So, here is what I ended up with, the newest updated number is:

806732200

yea, you don't have to take apart the input, so if it isn't leaking, I wouldn't bother (taking this apart effects the gear mesh.....I messed with it once, and got it wrong.....eek). side seals are a good idea, but I've re-used without problem.

 

just a thin bead of RTV around the rear cover, and you're good to go.

 

 

and yea....the correct fluid is a good idea.

my uncle taught me a little trick... run a brown paper bag (or peice of brown paper bag) through the ring and pinion if every thing is right it should not eat the bag up but it should run through tightly. just a cheap test so you don't eat it right up.

 

he sets up Chevy rears on the cheap for offroading.

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