The key won't turn in the ignition now, maybe 2/3rds of the time (all of a sudden). The only solution is a violent shaking of the steering wheel; then it will crank. Local suby dealer wants $300 (if the problem is mechanical only, which I believe it is), or $500 (if it is mechanical + electrical, which I doubt it is, but which they surely will "tell me" it is).

 

I have been given advice to either "just continue just twisting the wheel" (and that I may get years of "thank god it started" with this technique), or, I can plunk down the $300/$500 for a replaced ignition and not have the worries.

 

What do you guys think? Is it not uncommon for a 10 year old Suby to have "key won't turn" blues? (PS, key works fine in all locks, and when it does crank, the electrical all seems fine.) Is the "twist the wheel repeatedly" solution common, or am I counting the days until I'm stranded?

 

Thanks for your thoughts,

Ed

Try a little graphite powder in the ignition cylinder. It comes in a little plastic bottle that you can squeeze a small amount into the cylinder.

 

Some guys spray a small amount of wd-40 if that doesn't work, but I would try the grpahite powder first.

my locksmith swears by teflon spray. but graphite has been around a lot longer.

 

you can probably get it re-keyed for 40 - 50$. the cylinder isn't hard to pull if you have the key. i've posted how to at least once.

When you get out of the car do you push yourself out by pushing on the wheel? You could be inadvertently tripping the steering lock by doing that. This happens quite often in Fords, GMs, even BMWs. The steering wheel won't turn very far without a lot of force when the engine is off due to the friction of the tires on the ground. If you play around with the wheel a bit, you'll notice that when you pull it to one side or the other and let go it will "spring" back in the opposite direction. The steering lock is a mechanical setup that is directly connected to the ignition cylinder. That "spring" force can jam the steering lock in such a way that prevents the lock pin from pulling back and releasing the wheel, when you try to turn the key. Until you give the wheel a tug in the opposite direction the spring force is being applied and relieve the pressure on the pin.

 

Best way to avoid that is to not move the wheel once the key is out.

I second that. On my '95, we have to be very careful not to move the steering wheel after pulling the key and to have the wheel lined up straight, OR it very difficult to turn the ignition key. On the other hand, it could be that the lock set is just starting to fail and you may soon have to replace it.

The key won't turn in the ignition now, maybe 2/3rds of the time (all of a sudden). The only solution is a violent shaking of the steering wheel; then it will crank. Local suby dealer wants $300 (if the problem is mechanical only, which I believe it is), or $500 (if it is mechanical + electrical, which I doubt it is, but which they surely will "tell me" it is).

 

I have been given advice to either "just continue just twisting the wheel" (and that I may get years of "thank god it started" with this technique), or, I can plunk down the $300/$500 for a replaced ignition and not have the worries.

 

What do you guys think? Is it not uncommon for a 10 year old Suby to have "key won't turn" blues? (PS, key works fine in all locks, and when it does crank, the electrical all seems fine.) Is the "twist the wheel repeatedly" solution common, or am I counting the days until I'm stranded?

 

Thanks for your thoughts,

Ed

 

There is a locking pin in the lock mechanisim that locks the steering wheel. This pin is gauling, and will only get worse with time. Have it fixed since as the weather gets colder, it will just get worse.

 

This is a mechanical issue with the lock cylinder, and the dealer was just being honest with you. You got two prices because it could also possibly have to do with the circuit that connects the shifter interlocks with the ignition switch.

 

This also may not be a straight "just replace the cylinder" thing as they may have to replace the fitting that the pin goes into too.

 

 

nipper

Just to rule it out, you might consider getting a brand new key cut, from the key code. Small price to pay, and it will rule it out if it continues.

Good advice all around; thanks everyone for your insights.

 

For now I'm going to start small; I bought some graphite powder. If that doesn't help, I'll take it up to the next level.

 

Thanks again for all of the tips.