Is it easier to drop the transmission out the bottom of the car with the engine still there and then try get a transmission to mate up to the engine from underneath?Or is it easier to pull the transmission,then the motor and put the new transmission where its supposed to go, then install the motor?

 

Also does anyone have a link to a write up for a 5 speed DR swap handy for future reference?

 

Car is an 84 GL

Do you have an engine hoist, or a car lift? The thought of trying to do it from underneath sounds like an awful pain if you don't have a lift, but then again, I've only done it from the top... and that was a pain to have to remove the whole engine first if you didn't have to otherwise (though, I was doing ian engine swap anyway). But... once the engine was out, it was pretty easy doing the transmission.

 

Z

The ONLY time I remove transmissions is when I'm changing them out or rebuilding them.

 

That said, it's far easier to remove them from underneath. I use 6 ton jack stands on both ends of the vehicle to get it high enough, then I recently bought a low-profile transmission jack from harbor frieght for $80 that works great for Subaru transaxles. I typically shim the engine away from the radiator with a block of wood before I disconnect the pitching stopper (otherwise it will pitch forward when you take the tranny out).

 

While it can be done without the jack, it's a real lifesaver. I've done the last two with it and it's been great.

 

GD

What is the best way to secure the engine?Would A rachet strap or similar work?

 

I should have enough room to get the transmission out.Car is sitting on 235's with 2" suspension lift...

I'm not sure I understand.... the engine won't need to be secured - you can shim the engine away from the radiator - it's beneficial to rock them backward farther than normal so the transmission hangs down at an angle. You can either put a block between the top of the radiator and the engine, or you can put a jack with a 2x4 or similar under the oil-pan to push the engine back. Just make sure you use something like a 8" long bit of 2x4 under the pan to spread the weight of the jack.

 

GD

Did mine from underneath.

 

Signed

 

Sonicfrog - veteran of the crappy 3 speed A/T to Cool 5 speed AWD swap!

I have done it from underneath a couple times. A transmission jack is a huge plus, and a second pair of hands is also a huge plus. I have done it without either and it's a pain in the arse.

I did it from underneath with a couple of wheel ramps. I swore a lot and did not enjoy myself.

 

Since then I have done it from the top and found the whole excersise more enjoyable. Plus I was able to re- torque my heads and set the valve clearances easily.

 

Pretty much a good opportunity to have a really good spring clean under the hood and do a full tune up.

how much and what sort of fluid does an DR 4 speed take?

a transmission *can* come out much quicker from underneath. there's just much less to it when you add up all the parts and procedures.

 

but it's also uncomfortable, harder (on your back/underneath instead of over top reaching down while standing), and more difficult by yourself (particularly on the install) without good equipment/help.

 

Lots of items there to annoy you and get in your way.

 

Everything else being equal (skills, experience, tools, etc) a transmission will come out in half the time of an engine. The caveat is it's harder for everything to go smoother from under neath due to mentioned above.

I would have help.

What Gary says is very true. The crappy thing about transmission swaps is that it takes half a dozen of them before you get really proficient at it. Some things I've noticed:

 

1. Disconnect the wireing, upper bell-housing bolts, starter, clutch cables, etc (and on EJ's remove the cable bracket and dog-bone bracket from the tranny) BEFORE you put the car on jack stands. The height required to easily get the tranny out makes this stuff hard to access while the car is in the air.

 

2. Drop the exhaust, and remove the driveline, then drain the transmission. Knock out the roll pins from the axle's. Drop the transmission cross-member and let the tranny hang down in the back - as you do so drain the remainder of the gear oil into a pan from the rear output. Disconnect the linkage.

 

3. Use the pitching stopper to angle the engine backward, or on EJ's shim the engine with a few blocks of wood against the radiator fans. Then use a jack to just take the weight off the engine and allow you to pull it backward and off the alignment pins. This often requires a bit of persuasion with a long screwdriver near the pins. Once clear, pull the tranny back till it clears the studs on the bottom of the bell-housing.

 

4. Shift the tranny first to one side and then the other to remove the axle's from the stubs. Doing it this way makes for less work as you don't have to remove the wheels, or take the control arms loose, etc.

 

5. Lower the tranny out of the tunnel and roll it on it's side to clear the engine cross-member and pull it out the front of the vehicle. If you have the HF tranny jack that I mentioned, the tranny will roll onto it's side without falling off the jack with minimal effort.

 

It's really pretty easy once you get the proccess down. I can have a tranny out and a new one in typically in about 4 hours if I don't run into anything unusual.

 

GD

Looks like Ill be doin the same thing

 

heres a link to the swap

 

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/transmission/5speed.html

 

but It doesnt say which cross member Id assume 2nd gen tranny mounts and why do we got to weld the carrier berring?