The Dude Abides Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 I dont have a heating problem per-say. But when driveing around my windshield kept freezing over and fogging when i didnt have it on the windshield function. I cant seem to keep the inside windows from fogging, and keep the heat on vent. What is a good setting to cure this. Or is my heating system just not circulating well enough. It just seems strange, every other car ive had seems to have a vent on the outside to heat the windshield. Or maybe ive just thought this. Any ideas. I get heat in the car fine. Its not super, ouch burn my hand hot but its hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 on days like this I just leave it in defrost mode the whole time... no cars that I know of have an outside vent to heat the windshiled, but most have a vent there for air intake to feed through the cabin climate controls.... how much "force" does the air have coming out of your defrost vents? I had an '85 once that had crap for air force, and there was a plastic piece for the flapper controls that was broken so it wasn't directing the air properly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 You may know this, but I'll say it anyway.... There are several levers and vacuum actuators to control the airflow through the vents under the center dash, I bet you could play around with those to get a combo of defrost/floor heat. Also, there on the linkage for those controls, right by your right foot area, is a micro switch. When you hit the button for defrost, the linkage hits that switch to engage the A/C compressor. That will dry the air and de-fog the windows better, but cools the air, and slows the engine. You can disconnect that switch, or install a toggle switch to disengage it, just for the cold winter days. Then you will just get heat onto the windshield. Also, pull the blower motor(fan) and clean out the ducting right there. And flush the heater core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Definately need to flush the heater core. I changed the blower motor this summer so i know thats pretty clear. I have ac but the belt isnt hooked onto the compressor. The only way i can get heat through the vents it seems is to hit the A/C switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 ^ missing the heat "option" now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Hey at least my old subaru starts. Dohhh:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 Hey at least my old subaru starts. Dohhh:rolleyes: oooh. he scores with a stab to the heart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 When you hit the different buttons do you hear the valves/flappers moving to re-direct the air? You may have a vacumm hose off somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 I hear them switching, from floor, to window, to vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 1. The defrost function works better if the AC is working. 2. The inside of the windows will fog up if there is any moisture present inside the car - wet people, coats, carpet, towels, etc. If you want fog-free windows you have to get the moisture out and keep it out. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Stupid question, but would some rainx on the inside help this as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 And as far as i know, the ac isnt charged for cold but it has pressure. All it needs is a belt. But now 2 days with no work i cant afford chit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 Rain-X makes an "anti-fog" product for the inside of the windshield - it works pretty good but it wears off after a month or so. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 I hear them switching, from floor, to window, to vent. But no air flowing out of the different vents as you select the different switches? Maybe check behind the dash to see if the ducting isn't disconnect somewhere. Every sub I've had will burn you out(after heater core flush) even down to the bitter cold single digits here in VA . Maybe there's a way to play with the flappers to get a defrost/floor mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 No sorry i didnt clarify. I have heat coming out of the floorboards, the windshield, the vents. Its just not burn my butt hott. I had the inside of my windows ice up on me tonight. Nothing i could do could heat up the inside of the car. I really wish i would of flushed the heatercore this summer. That and i could use a new radiator, probally water pump also. But i digress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akc Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Are you sure you have no water leaks? ie leaking winsheild, or heater core or a gasket around one of the windows the other thing I would do is flush out your heater core. make sure there is not any blockages but I still think you would have to have some moisture in the car if your winsheild is fogging up. I agree with GD. i have been chasing that monster this year mine was a winsheild gasket that leaks. dried up the car and now it is just cold (heater was working now it is not again) light fog with no moisture. Try a portable heater leave it in the car overnight dry out the car and see if you see a difference if that helps you probably have water coming in somewhere. might take a couple of days.(mine was also someone dropped about a quart of water on the back seat floorboards.) good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 (edited) Well the problem of his windshield fogging up is because his AC is not working(hooked up), the icing and lack of heat is another issue. But remember, every car has a defroster, but not all have an AC. My old Ford doesn't, and I only need to turn up the temp to keep the windshield clear. Time to flush the core! Have you done it before with a garden hose before? Plenty of posts about it here. If your worried about your fingers freezing, and you can get the car close enough to the house, connect the garden hose to the hot water hookup for your washing machine so you can have hot water to keep warm! I've done the same when I was too impatient to wait for the engine to cool of to flush the coolant system, and to fill my koi pond in the cool fall temps, but that's for another forum.... Edited December 10, 2009 by Frank B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 Unfortunately i dont live in a house i live in an apartment. Unless my father in law lets me flush it in his shop (doubtfull) then it wont get done this winter. Anyone know what size belt to use with this ac alternator setup. Pretty sure this is the dealer installed A/C not the factory. And its a california car, if that makes any difference. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 When I go outside later, I'll look at mine, i think it's the same set up. or, you can measure it. Run a sewing tape measure, or a rope around all the pulleys it needs to go around along the outside edge of the pulleys, not down in the grove. You need the outside diameter of the belt, not the inside where the v is. This will get you close and hopefully the adjustment will take care of the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 I almost forgot, since you can't get to flushing it soon, just switch the hoses to the heater core to reverse flow. Sometimes that works to dislodge the crud over a short time. The downside is that it may end up clogging the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Ultimately you have two routes: 1. dry out the inside of the car - no moisture = no fog or ice on the inside. 2. Get the heater working HOT. First thing you need to do is check the engine operating temp. If you aren't getting up to temp then the heater core isn't going to do much. You need to get up to 190 to get good heat and you need good flow through the heater core. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 What about good flow through the radiator. I noticed most of the bottom of mine has tons of fins missing. As far as flow, it has a new 192 or so T-stat in it. The temp gauge gets to half on the idiot gauge. And yea there is a ton of snow inside the car now so i will half to dry that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 If the gauge is reading half-way then you should be good on engine temp and coolant temp - not a bad idea to double-check that with a temp gun though. Sounds like your heater core needs to be flushed or replaced. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WheaT_BeeR_MaN Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 how do u flush the heater core? my other ea81 was much hotter then this. seems to flow threw ok. i think it could be better but the hottness is warm not really hot. its been 10 to 15 degrees here which i was thinking maybe y but i figuired id ask. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 And yea there is a ton of snow inside the car now so i will half to dry that out. No wonder you glass is fogging up. The needle has never gone past 1/4 of the sweep on any sube I've had once the stat and rad was replaced and core flushed. Unless it was crazy hot in the summer and I was pushing it hard up a hill with bad head gaskets, then it would rise to half or more. Even with bad headgaskets, my loylae won't come up more than 1/4 sweep in the winter. But, if it isn't overheating, that extra temp will be nice in the winter, AFTER YOU FLUSH THE CORE AND SHOVEL THE SNOW OUT.... Oh, and since your rad is rotten anyway, and you intend to replace it later anyway, right?, try flipping the hoses to the core for now and see if it makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.