2000 Forester

 

So of course, the last bolt I need to remove is rounded. I figure I have one shot to get it right with a good 6 point socket but accessibility is next to nothing.

 

So I'd like to hear from all you auto trans removers. This is my first time pulling an auto trans so I don't know any tricks.

 

What tool configuration do you typically use?

 

is there anyway to get on this thing good without pulling friggin intake?

 

Thanks!

 

Will-

Edited December 30, 200916 yr by lostinthe202

Heat the bolt head good and hot - can you get it red? At least heat it and let it cool even if it's just a propane torch. The expanding/contracting will help free it.

 

If you have to remove the intake to get a clean 90 degree shot at it then I'd do it.

 

Good luck will, these suck!

I generally use a Craftsman Pro 12/14mm offset box wrench to get at these without rounding them. IIRC, you can pull the P/S pump and alternator and wiggle a 6 point socket on a long extension in from the front. You may need a universal joint on the end, just to make sure you can get a 90* seat on the bolt head. You just need to break the thing loose, after that it comes out easy.

I found the perfect tool for the job. It was a insert that fit into a ratcheting wrench (12 or 13mm) and had a 3/8" drive on the other side. Attach a normal length 12mm socket and it fits in the access hole with intake fully assembled.

 

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00999648000-1?hei=600&wid=600&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

 

Made by gearwrench, called a wrench drive adapter. Bought the set of three for under 20 bucks i think.

Thanks for the tips, I'll look into them.

 

Gary,

 

I wanted to put heat to it, but there's all this rubber around it (part of what makes access so hard) and I'm afraid of melting stuff. I think if I pull the coolant hose that runs into the intake from... wherever it comes from I can get a pretty good shot at it with my pipe sweatin' torch so I'll give that a shot.

 

Gnuman,

 

all of my box/open/combination wrenches just don't have the right geometry to fully seat on the nut. The first three I got with a ratcheting box wrench but It wasn't a comforting fit and this last one already had rounded edges on it so I just know that if I go at it with the same tool I'll just fubar it.

 

I'll look into pulling some accessories to get a straight shot at it.

 

coldfusion21,

 

Those look handy though I don't think they'll help for this application. I actually sacrificed a 6point socket and box end wrench by welding them together to create something along the same lines and while it did grip better, I could still feel it wanting to pop off because I can't get behind it with any kind of force to keep it on the head.

I bought a nice set of spline racheting wrenches. They fit on spline heads as well as normal boltl. The heads flex so you can get good contact and I use them every time I pull a motor to get the flex plate bolts off. If you run into a problem, let me know and I can run up ther this Sunday and give you a hand. I am just in Richmond. My phone number is 804-393-0516

 

Mike

Right on, thanks for the offer. I'll look into the spline wrenches, I haven't heard of those.

 

Will-

Ive used a zero offset long reach 12mm/13mm from MAC...works well for me...

Yeah a zero off set looks like it would be the right thing, except that the top portion of the bolt is already rounded and with a zero off set you can't get the tool fully seated on the head and I figure my only shot is to be all the way down on the head.

I paid 120 for my set and I love them. They have a long reach, reversing rachet and a flex head. They work on a combination of nuts and bolts. Very versatile. Here is a link to a page I found for you. A bit more than I paid though.

 

http://www.toolsource.com/metric-double-universal-spline-ratcheting-wrench-p-105105.html

I found a set on ebay too

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EZ-Red-NR5M-Flexible-SplineRatcheting-Wrench-Set-Metric_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c524e9b5bQQitemZ190359444315QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Interesting. More then I want to spend on tools at the moment, but if they are good for banged up bolt heads, might be worth it.

When I bought them I was doing several ej25 jobs and they were worth the money. Really a time saver and saved some of the bolts that were difficult to get at. Overall I'm glad I got them.

 

You can also get an open end wrench that has a socket on the other end. The socket flops to the side so that you can get great access in tight spaces like the access hole for the flex plate.

 

Another option would be to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor. You might be able to access the bolt from underneath. I can't remember if I had done it this way, but I do remember getting access to the bottom so that I could tighten up the crank bolt and hold the flex plate with a pry bar. Check and see if that is a possibility for your car.

Good suggestion, so there might be an inspection plate down below that can come off eh? I didn't think of that.

The zero offset wrench is the winner. I bought one(10-12mm) years ago from Snap-on. It was ~ $20.00. I used it for EA82 water pump nuts. I also have found that it works great for the flex plate bolts. The key for any wrench or socket is that the threads have to reach the edge. If they do not you will find the situation you are currently in. To get this one out you will need either a 6 point socket or wrench. You may have to remove the intake to get proper access to it. Do not use heat or a torch anywhere near the main harness connections. You will end up in more trouble than you have now.

Edited December 29, 200916 yr by Qman

You may have to remove the intake to get proper access to it. Do not use heat or a torch anywhere near the main harness connections. You will end up in more trouble than you have now.

 

I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that, but gotta do whatcha gotta do.

 

Thanks!

 

Will-

Call me before you do that

I ussually just pull the intake, flop it over to the side.

 

But when I do choose to just unbolt the Flexplate, I have a 12mm wrench from MAC that has a 6-point socket instead of a box end. Shorter overall than a Ratchet/Socket combo, but deep enough to get into the recess.

 

Removing the alt and using a long extension and swivel works pretty well too.

weld a nut to the top of the bolt, that's my favorite way of getting them out, but good luck with limited access?

 

yes - at least some motors have access from underneath, usually with a small plate/cover to remove first.

I just had this happen to me. I ended up taking the coolant hose off at the throttle body. I heated the bolt up with a torch had to change to the smallest tip and took awhile to heat up. At first used a chisle and a hammer. I got it to move a bit by hammering the chisle down on the left side of the bolt head to loosen it. I ended up grinding down a old air hammer bit really sharp to a point then hit it with the air hammer where I was previously chisling and it loosened up. I let it cool a bit then it came out just finger tight.

Gary,

 

I was thinking along the same lines. I pulled the intake today to get a good straight shot at it (sorry Mike, I figured what the hell intake gaskets aren't all that bad) and it still wouldn't budge. My pipe sweater is just too dinky to try and heat the bolt. I think I can get in there with the MIG now that I've pulled the intake (partially pulled, just removed the head bolts and propped the intake out of the way).

 

574-240sx

 

Yeah I was thinking of something similar. I tried a few with my cold chisel, but without the intake fully removed (a step I'm still hoping to avoid) I can't get a good angle on it and I don't have an air-chisel.

 

GD suggested one of those universal sockets, I'm going to try that before I break out the welder.

No access from the bottom...

 

cross member is in the way!

oh wow, lift engine, drop cross member yeah that sounds terrible.

 

good luck will, hope you figure something out.

 

I forget what size it is - 12mm? Wonder if you could grind it down to 11mm and then wail a 6 point 11mm socket on it? I did that once but with a bad lug nut. Actually the lug nut is still on my bench wedged into the socket, I have no clue how to get it back out!!

oh wow, lift engine, drop cross member yeah that sounds terrible.

 

good luck will, hope you figure something out.

 

I forget what size it is - 12mm? Wonder if you could grind it down to 11mm and then wail a 6 point 11mm socket on it? I did that once but with a bad lug nut. Actually the lug nut is still on my bench wedged into the socket, I have no clue how to get it back out!!

 

Do you own a vice? Open the vice enough to allow the lug nut to fit but not tight. Set the socket on the vice lug nut down. Take a punch and drive out the lug nut.

i probably didn't give it enough set up or did it wrong. hitting it required an angle otherwise the punch just goes through the hole - and would propel it rather than getting enough down force on it to move it.

 

i pounded like crazy to get it on there and i have plenty of other sockets so i'm not too worried about it. maybe some day.