mtskibum16 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Ok guys. I've been doing an engine swap on a 97 OBW. Everything went in good and I had driven it maybe 25 miles just checking things out and absolutely NO problems with the engine but had minor torque bind. So, I did a transmission flush by changing the tranny fluid 3 times and driving in between each to circulate the fluid. The torque bind disapeered during the drives and the car was running well. On the last fluid change I included a half bottle of transmisison additive that was recommended by a few different people for torque bind. It called for just under a bottle and I used about half. I can't remember for the life of me if I drove it around after the last flush but I'm guessing I did. Came home and washed the engine bay with a garden hose (engine was cooled down) and engine degreaser. I made sure not to concentrate the water on an electrical parts but didn't cover anything. So, went home last night for a drive and it started fine and pulled out of my garage fine but when I went to go forward it kind of surged and stuttered and acted like it was stalling. I was easy on the gas and continued on. As I would try to accelerate it would sort of stall (not die) and started blowing whiteish smoke out the back (smoke/exhaust didn't smell like burning coolant). It was strange as it almost felt like the transmission was slipping, but then it was the engine stalling out and puking the smoke out the exhaust. Also kind of felt like if you have your e-brake on part way and it kind of bogs down the engine. Any ideas? So in summary, the car was fine until I did two things in a row....change the tranny fluid the last time and wash the engine bay so I'd assume one of those two things is a cause of the issue. Edited January 20, 2010 by mtskibum16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 From what you described, it doesn't sound like you have a trany problem. I can't imagine that there was enough water remaining from the wash down to create white-ish smoke or steam. Suspect you have an engine problem. Have you checked oil and radiator levels? Do they look normal? If it is problem caused by the wet engine, suggest starting the motor and letting it idle for 15 to 20 minutes to heat up the motor and evaporate any moisture. Stay near the running car, in case anything abnormal develops. Keep us posted on what's going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtskibum16 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Yeah...I didn't see how it could have been transmission either. The engine was washed down the night before this happened so I doubt steam also. I let it idle for quite a while last night after the problem and it idles and revs fine while in park with no apparent problem. It only shows up when the engine is under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Check the spark plug wells for water. Very easy to get it in there past the plug boots without meaning to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Yeah...I didn't see how it could have been transmission either. The engine was washed down the night before this happened so I doubt steam also. I let it idle for quite a while last night after the problem and it idles and revs fine while in park with no apparent problem. It only shows up when the engine is under load. By any chance have you filled up your gas tank just before the problem started? My brother once bought a bad tank of gas, that was contaminated with water. Has it rained hard lately where you live? His car would idle and rev fine when stopped, but would stumble and stall under load. He added "dry gas" additive to his next several tanks of gas to fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) washing the engine killed your knock sensor. Its happened to a many people, they sometimes get cracks in them due to age, and once water reached it, the death of the knock sensor. If I am wrong, so be it, but that is my 100 cents I have also seen people short out the MAF sensor or the TPS sensor in similar ways, and also seen alternators die this way as well and the coil packs and igniters are like cats, they hate water too.l. Usually bad things result with water on a newer engine. Edited January 20, 2010 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtskibum16 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) I'll check the spark plug wells. Didn't really even think about that since they're horizontal and kind of tucked away. Not sure if it would idle fine if that was the problem but who knows. Rooster2: I've had that happen before too in previous cars and it does feel a lot like that but I haven't gotten any new gas durring this whole process and the car is stored inside a garage - although I did hand wash it too but if it can't handle that I think I have other problems Thanks for the ideas and keep them coming! Edit: Just saw bheinen74's post Where is the knock sensor located on these? What would I check for to see if it's bad? What about inspection for the MAF? I've been thinking it is probably some sensor. I already had a bad coolant temperature gauge sensor. I tried searching for washing engine bay and didn't get much luck. I'll try again though. Thanks for the tip. Edited January 20, 2010 by mtskibum16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtskibum16 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 You rock! Thanks. I probably have another one on the engine I took out. I'll also dry all the ignition system off good tonight and maybe a bit-o WD40 and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Log1call Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 A faulty knock sensor is not going to stop the engine though! There will be water somewhere near the ignition or in an electrical connector to do with the efi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtskibum16 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 The engine never stopped, just bogged down to a near full stall, then would kind of catch again for a second, then bog again. Light slow throttle would get it going at town speeds but not smoothly really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Like they said, the ignition or knock sensor sounds likely, although I would expect a code if it's that bad. But I have seen problems with no Check Engine Light before. A really bad knock sensor can cause a drivability problem like he's describing. Often they're benign and the car runs fine but they also *can* cause a lot of issues. A vacuum leak is also notorious for doing exactly what you're talking about. Car starts but won't drive without tap dancing the throttle and then even then it usually stalls. So - the spray down may have knocked a vacuum hose loose. Spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner around the engine bay while the car is idling will show a vacuum leak very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Is there water in the oil? passed by a faulty seal on the dipstick or not fully closed filler cap. Also check the powersteering oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtskibum16 Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 Well it threw a CEL last night. I don't have a code reader but I'll borrow one tonight and see what I get. Last night I took all the plug wires off and blew out the sparkplug wells and also blew out a lot of electrical connectors. No help. Doing the same thing....the car will aventually get going up to speed but I really have to tap dance on the throttle. I looked around the engine bay and can't find any vacuum lines off, not that that means there aren't any off....I just couldn't find one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtskibum16 Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 washing the engine killed your knock sensor.Its happened to a many people, they sometimes get cracks in them due to age, and once water reached it, the death of the knock sensor. If I am wrong, so be it, but that is my 100 cents We have a winner! It was the knock sensor. Pulled the code tonight and got a P0325. Took the sensor off and it read 125 kohms (400-700 kohms is spec for a good one). Pulled the knock sensor off the engine I took out of the car and it was good (525 kohms). I was surprised to see it had a different plastic connector - it was from a 97 and the other from a 96. Just swapped the connectors and hooked it up. Cleared the code, started the car and no CEL. Took it for a drive and all is well!!! YAY! I'm still really surprised how bad the knock sensor made the car run! I mean it was REALLY bad. Anyways, thanks for the help guys! You rock! It will be on Craig's List soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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