I cannot find any good threads on replacing a CV Joint.

Can someone point me to good write up or thread with step by step directions and/or pictures?

 

Cheers

 

-R

I *thought* NASIOC had one, have you checked over there?

 

There's not much too it really. Just have a good pair of circlip pliers to remove the clips and zillions of rags, it's simple enough to do but a terrible mess. I have refused to do them for years because of how messy they are and finally did my first one a couple months ago, it was easy.

i meant to write up an article for ea82 axles. i took a bunch of pics of rebuilding the axle itself(replacing boots, regrease)

 

here is the link to the pics if it will help you, the same idea will apply to REBUILDING any subaru axle

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/axle/

Here is one for changing an a WRX. Yours should be similar:

 

http://www.scoobymods.com/diy-wrx-front-axle-t11665.html

 

Are you changing the axle or just the CV Joint?

 

MWE Axles sells rebuilt Subaru axles for $75 ea and they have a good reputation on many Subaru boards:

 

http://www.ccrengines.com/id28.html

Edited February 26, 201016 yr by Mike104

Here is one for changing an a WRX. Yours should be similar:

 

http://www.scoobymods.com/diy-wrx-front-axle-t11665.html

 

Are you changing the axle or just the CV Joint?

 

MWE Axles sells rebuilt Subaru axles for $75 ea and they have a good reputation on many Subaru boards:

 

http://www.ccrengines.com/id28.html

 

Well the boot is bad, and I figure if I am going to go in there I might as well change out the whole thing.

 

Are the MWE Axles same quality as OEM? I have heard that aftermarket from parts stores are junk. I have outback lift on mine so need strong OEM grade or better.

 

I have also been reading about two approaches to getting the axle out:

 

• removing the lower control arm
  
• popping the knuckle from the ball joint?
  

Anybody try both and like one better than other?

Edited February 26, 201016 yr by rweddy

Well boot is bad, and I figure if I am going to go in there I might as well change out the whole thing.

 

Are the MWE Axles same quality as OEM? I have heard that aftermarket from parts stores are junk. I have outback lift on mine so need strong OEM grade or better.

 

I have also been reading about two approaches to getting the axle out:

 

• removing the lower control arm
  
• popping the knuckle from the ball joint?
  

Anybody try both and like one better than other?

 

i used to do remove the lower control arm but now i prefer removing the top strut bolt and loosening the lower one. you can use a cold chisel to mark the bolt head and the lip on the strut bracket so you put back the same way it was before you started. this is way easier than messing with the stuff below the knuckle.

 

i don't know if they still do, but i remember hearing that mwe would give a price break to board members. free shipping or no core or something like that. worth asking about. re-booting a used axle ends up costing me more than 50$, next time i need one i'm call mwe and see what the final cost is after it is all done.

 

napa re-man ~95$, i think.

Ok your're going to change the axle assembly not just the CV joint. Yeah fixing the boot not worth the bother in my opinion. You have to remove the axle to disassemble it to change the boot, so IMO just change the axle.

 

MWE has a good recommendation from some members here. Others have also recommended Raxles.com for other Japanese make cars but I have no experience with them or know if they have any Subaru experience.

 

As far as the ball joint vs lower control arm I guess it depends on how rusted your car is and what tools/equipment you have. I would think the lower control arm would be easier if your ball joint is rusted. I know I'm going to try the strut trick John mentioned above first (may need an alignment afterwards if bolt is not marked and put back in the same place) and then I going to try the control arm next if the first one doesn't work. Ball joint is last in my list (IMO).

 

Some have said this tool helps get the ball joint out of the knuckle:

 

 

YMMV

Edited February 27, 201016 yr by Mike104

Just did one last week. 97 OBW.

 

I used NAPA reman for $60, and replaced 13yr old ball joint in the process, $22 Autozone.

 

So yah I undid the tierod end and balljoint to get axle out.

 

Craftsman part #42885 is the punch you really want, combined with a 8" ratchet extension slipped over it to help give you a better swing with a small hammer to drive the new pin home.

I bought a new axle assembly from MWE a couple of years ago and with shipping it was $120.00. But he did not charge me a core charge. I just shipped the old axle back to him once I got it out. I did just pull the ball joint but I had just replaced it the year before.

Edited February 27, 201016 yr by jp98

Freeing up the lower control arm at the ball joint is usually what I do but it can be a lot of work with frozen parts. Either remove the castle nut and use a puller to pop it free from the control arm, or whack the control arm with a soft hammer (copper) to knock it free. Pickle forks usually tear the ball joint boot but if your replacing it, no matter. Other method is to loosen the pinch joint bolt (tends to break if frozen) and knock the ball joint head out of the pinch joint under the knuckle. If the ball joint head is frozen in the pinch joint, drive a bull pin horizontal between the control arm and the pinch joint. 1 5/16" diameter bull pin if I remember right.

MWE Axles sells rebuilt Subaru axles for $75 ea and they have a good reputation on many Subaru boards:

 

http://www.ccrengines.com/id28.html

 

Anyone have experience with CVJ Axels of Denver?

 

I need to do a p/s front axle on my 2002 Impreza. Searching Rock Auto, there is this interchange chart:

 

SUBARU BAJA (2003 - 2004)

SUBARU BAJA SPORT (2005 - 2006)

SUBARU FORESTER (2000 - 2002)

SUBARU IMPREZA OUTBACK (2000 - 2004)

SUBARU IMPREZA RS (2000 - 2001)

SUBARU IMPREZA TS (2002 - 2004)

SUBARU IMPREZA WRX (2002 - 2004)

SUBARU LEGACY (2000 - 2004)

SUBARU OUTBACK (2000 - 2004)

 

Anyone know how accurate it is? Any differences between axles for m/t a/t?

Someone please tell me, when the front CV axle is removed from the AT housing, does AT fluid come out of the axle-to-transmission joint? I've done a front-wheel drive Nissan and AT fluid came out of it and I had to use a container to catch the fluid.

Someone please tell me, when the front CV axle is removed from the AT housing, does AT fluid come out of the axle-to-transmission joint? I've done a front-wheel drive Nissan and AT fluid came out of it and I had to use a container to catch the fluid.

 

no, its easy and no fluid.

I did my 99 leg wagon front passenger axle two years ago following the haynes manual and a few tips from here. No problems and no fluid to catch. I did notice very slight grease seeping from the edge of the boot by the clamp recently when doing my front brake pads (and rotor replacement). it was aftermarket axle from autozone. hardest part for me was getting that darned little pin back in where axle slide over the splined shaft (transaxle ?).

Edited March 10, 201016 yr by lewisd