I really need a clock, because where I work plays heck with my watch. But the closck in my beast behaves strangely - blanks out, comes back, resets itself, the setting buttons sometimes misbehave, you name it. Probably has cracked PC board, at a guess.

 

It coes ot of the dash board easily enoguh, but the wire harness dives down deep inside. Anyone know where it goes, and how to access it?

 

Thanks.

if you keep pulling it should come up but if not if you pull your glove box out you should be able to reach the plug the led is probably messed up alot of mine have done that to

Try pressing the buttons on the clock... see what happens then. The clock in my Loyale turns on or brightens when I press on the buttons... heard somewhere that it has something to do with the circuit board solders becoming fatigued, and pressing the buttons flexes the board, reconnecting the solder connections.

 

Try looking at this ... there's quite a few other threads on the subject.

Maybe I'm just lazy... but I just cut the wires to the clock, resoldered connections (mainly resistors) on the bench and crimped on some 18-22 awg (red) butt splices when I put it back in. It is suggested in the following article that the solder joints can be fixed without taking the clock out.

Clock Fix

clock connector white with a blue dot 5 wires yellow, blue, red, black and red with black stripe

look by defrost duct area, behind glovebox

remove clock by prying at left and rigtht side, snaps out

it is very easy to R&R

I took the clock out on Saturday, and resoldered the board, as advised.

 

There is a 75 ohm 2 watt resistor that puts out lots of heat. I took it right off the board, and resoldered it so it was about 1/4 inch above, to cut the heat that gets to the board itself.

 

It is a pretty crude little power supply section , they use a voltage divider to take the 13 V or so down to 5 volts for the clock chip, and 2 volts for the display. Lots of heat is the result.

 

There were several solder joints that were obviously bad, but I had to resolder a lot more that that to get it reliable. If you have this trouble, just redo every joint in that quarter of the board, and it should be OK. If you have another 75 ohm, 2W resistor, install it so it is well off the board, and it should be OK forever..

 

While I was under the dash, I also fixed the fan speed resistor block. Low speed was out. I scraped the crud and corrosion off the end of the resistor wire as best I could, then buried it in the mound of solder that originally held it. I wouldn't call this a good soldering job, but it works!

Thanks for the input on fixing my clock. I am currently at work and searching our parts dept for a 75 ohm 2w resistor. It even gives the resistor size on the board! My board looks pretty bad right now, it looks like it gave a heck of a fight before it gave up. I will let you all know how it goes.

As for the connectors, don't be too anal, cut the frigg'in wires and butt end connect them.

 

Bill