92LoyaleSW

A local guy built this, details are here: http://www.pvpmedia.com/SG1.htm

Before everyone else asks.... Can you please take a picture of the diff tag and post it here? There seems to be some mythology around these 3.90 LSD units.

Try McBrat's link.... "McBrats Signature" '87 Wagon GL, 137k, 3" lift, ea81, weber, 14" Gold Alloys '86 Brat GL, 86k, 3" lift, 14" Subaru Alloys '82 Brat GL, 94k, 5" lift, many mods... pics... BYB/Ozified Lifts Order Here: Ultimate Decals Last edited by McBrat : 12-17-2004 at 05:09 PM.

With some 1/2" pipe, 3/16" plate, mig, and grinder wheel I made a mount that uses the front license plate bolts. See pics here in my album. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=2649&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500&page=1

I have some experience w/nitrous and drag racing. I have personally never saw a dry kit not run lean. A wet kit is definately the way to go. It seems that FI motors respond better that carb motors (my personal experience). IIRC, NOS and Nitrous Express HP numbers are based on a 350ci engine. A cheap way to to determine air/fuel mixture is to read directly off of an O2 sensor with a voltmeter. If you are serious about running nitrous I would recommend reading a book or two on the subject (very good stuff!), Summit Racing has several. NO2 is very fun, but be considerate of you pistons (particularly if they are hypereutetic). A friend of mine and I ended up rebuilding his LT1 after breaking a ring land. After that, we tried to educate ourselves. The car turned out better in the end (350HP, 400ft-lbs w/o; 460HP, 585ft-lbs with), after we knew more.

In real drag racing, speed doesn't count. Only consistency.

I tried JB Weld on a GM Quad4:banghead: header once, it held for about 20 minutes before it melted into a pile of goo.

Try this link for gear ratios (4sp D/R are on page 2): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14547

Added.

Keep years coming. I have started an Excel spreadsheet. If I can get all the years and options, I could email to someone for post in the Repair Section. Please add Diff ratio too.

You can grind the tip of your tap down and then use a thread file to fix the first thread. I have had good luck doing that in the past. What you need is called a blind tap (at least that's what we call them).

2nd Edition (to 88). Have unsuccessfully tried to find/buy one of these in the past. The Chiltons that came with was the really valuable book .

The harness adapter I received with my CD player from Crutchfied had a set of connectors and wires to isolate the speaker -. There is (on 85 and 92, anyhoo) a connector in the kick panel for each speaker. You just unplug the old (factory) connector and plug the new ones in, then snake them under the dash back to the receiver. No cutting and splicing. BTW if you order a cd player from Crutchfield , it comes with harness adapter, install plates, and detailed instructions.

This car: Subaru DL It says 4WD, but has a JF1 VIN. My understanding is that all 4WD have a JF2 VIN. Not interested in the car, but just checking my thinking.

92 wagon yes 85 wagon no Both have advantages.

6' 2.5", 240 lbs. Seat all the way back, wheel up a ways, no fitment problems. Fold down the back seats of the wagons and sleep corner to corner even.

Maybe I'm just lazy... but I just cut the wires to the clock, resoldered connections (mainly resistors) on the bench and crimped on some 18-22 awg (red) butt splices when I put it back in. It is suggested in the following article that the solder joints can be fixed without taking the clock out. Clock Fix

You can get white junk under the cap if you run short trips all of the time. I get this on my Loyale, 4 mins. to work and 4 mins. back. A good indicator is the actual condition of the oil. The oil in the Loyale looks normal, even with the white stuff. If your oil looks "like a milkshake", you are having a problem. You also indicated that you are loosing coolant. Where is it going, on the ground, or into the engine somewhere?

Where's the rust? Looks good to me.

My old 85 wagon and my 92 wagon both have done the same thing. 65-75mph sticky, both accelerating and decelerating. Maybe just a design quirk.

Just looking for these models. Check this link: http://www.prestige-hobbies.com/specials.htm.

Which recievers are these? Are they the flat bar style or the 1" square (don't remember the class numbers)? If the 1" sqaure I would be interested in one. Don't care for the flat bar though.