will this be a " one off " or do you plan on building and selling more?

 

he does full casts. he makes beautiful pieces of work, something that really should be hung on a wall.

 

but to quote him when someone asked if he was going to sell them

 

kinda the idea, yea, once I get done building them:)

 

depending on the throw out bearing the cost should be in the mid $300.00 range

 

the design hopes to use all Sub hardware , like clutch fork, pivot ball and slave cylinder flywheel. starter and pressure plate with just a Toyota disc to finish the build

the Toyota bearing from the update was a good selection but it presented some problems with depth, the Toyota throw out collar was too short to support this bearings use, so I will have to build a throw out bearing holder and find a bearing with a larger inner diameter, its no big deal, I build them for my R 154 /Mits combination already

 

 

 

 

 

This is way better than reality tv!

Great work man!! I'm subscribing. This could be awesome for my drift subaru!

I love it. When we go into recession, all I want to do is go hang out in my shop, too. Excellent fab work, by the way.

This is a great idea.I was just wondering how to stick a EJ22 in a 1976 Celica.

any updates good or bad.

I found the throw out bearing and I had the throw out bearing body casted and machined , so its all good, while I was waiting for the throw out body , I got hooked on the T 5 Ford trans for the Mits last week and I couldnt put it down

 

 

everytime I make a change, I put it back int the mill and make sure its square

 

 

 

 

 

I keep testing the centers and the depth of the input shaft

 

 

This housing can be ordered with left or right side slave cylinders

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have about 30 more hours of detail to put into it, so thats enough of the T 5 for now, I will be building a housing for New Zealand tomorow and be back on the Sub mid week, I will post pics on it Wensday

oh damn you bill, this t5 option alone makes me almost makes me want to scrap my subaru motor idea for my project and go to a mitsu motor.

 

:slobber::slobber:turbo 4g63 with dog boxed t5:slobber::slobber:

 

once again bill, beautiful work.

i can't wait for this.......cheers, brain

I hate to admit it but I had misjudged the depth of the input shaft so I had to cut and instal spacers on the inside of the housing I built

 

the hieght of the throw out bearing pivot ball had to be adjusted

then I milled off the backside of the bellhousing to adjust to the length of the input shaft

then the inner diameter was trimmed to fit both the W series and the R series Toyota transmissions

then the whole thing is reassembled to check clearances

now the proper input shaft legth is achieved

now the clutch fork is the proper depth to control the throw out bearing motion

with the clutch assembled I found the depth required for the throw out bearing body

Dan at compitition clutch has been very helpful and found the proper throw out bearing to complete this project without buying custom clutch parts, this is the proper throw out bearing but I needed to build the holder it could ride on. I had my own throw out bearing collar casted for this project so I can cut the required depth and adjust the throw out bearing into the proper place to take advantage of the motion of the clutch fork co-ordinaded with the hieght of the pivot ball attached to the back wall of the bellhousing

I can make the fork go through its motion and it works as smooth as silk

Edited September 28, 201015 yr by bill hincher

looking awesome bill, keep up the work.

looking awesome bill, keep up the work.

 

Agreed. We're all excited to see the result here.

Super skills!

 

Something like this sure would make my THM350 bolting to an EG33 project go a lot easier! Granted I am on a budget of way less than 5k...

 

If I don't count my hours I got about $50 in material. LOL!

 

Keep up the awesome work!

I'm soo down for buying one of these when you finally finish! Subscribed!

 

Its intresting to see you are using a 6 Jaw chuck.

What are the reasons of using one compaired to using a 3 or 4 Jaw chuck?

Do all the Jaws move together at once?

Thanks.

Its intresting to see you are using a 6 Jaw chuck.

What are the reasons of using one compaired to using a 3 or 4 Jaw chuck?

Do all the Jaws move together at once?

Thanks.

 

Its the lathe I choose to use,

I use a three jaw on my finishing lathe and I have a 4 jaw for this lathe for square pieces

Its intresting to see you are using a 6 Jaw chuck.

What are the reasons of using one compaired to using a 3 or 4 Jaw chuck?

Do all the Jaws move together at once?

Thanks.

 

 

6 jaw chucks are great for holding hollow stuff where there is a danger of distorting it with the clamping force of the chuck. Every 6 jaw I've encountered had jaws that moved concentrically as opposed to independent movement like most 4 jaws.

 

6 jaws also tend to have better repeatability, meaning they have a better chance of the work staying concentric if it has to be pulled out and put back into the chuck.

6 jaw chucks are great for holding hollow stuff where there is a danger of distorting it with the clamping force of the chuck. Every 6 jaw I've encountered had jaws that moved concentrically as opposed to independent movement like most 4 jaws.

 

6 jaws also tend to have better repeatability, meaning they have a better chance of the work staying concentric if it has to be pulled out and put back into the chuck.

 

Thanks

then the inner diameter was trimmed to fit both the W series and the R series Toyota transmissions

Would that include the R150f used in V6 4x4 tacomas? I've beaten the piss out of mine with a supercharged 3.4 and it's held up great. The R150f has a shorter input than the R154 in the supras, would that not match with the depth setting of your bellhousing?

The R 150's 2wd are found on all the toyota V 6 trucks pre 86

The R 151 was used on the turbo 4 cyl Toyota truck and 86-87 and v-6 toyota trucks after 87

they sell for about 3-500 bucks on car-part.com and there are plenty of

them

The input shafts are shorter then the R 154, and they are different before and after 86, but all I have to do is change how the bellhousing is built and then cut the back plate for which ever trans is ordered

Its all I been working on the last couple weeks, I finished out the dual bolt pattern for the trans side so it accepts both the w 55/59 trans or the R 151 or 150 trans

 

1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th

R150 - 3.83 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.838

R151 - 4.31 3.32 1.52 1.00 0.83

R154 - 3.25 1.95 1.30 1.00 0.75

 

This is another bellhousing I am building for the Mitsubishi 4cyl narrow block that will do the same job

I am building 3 bellhousings right now, I want to be completed in a couple weeks

I liked how the bolt holes lined up in the T 5 project so well, I went back and did it to this model too

I spent a great deal of time on wall thickness, I wanted to get i as light as possible without sacrificing strength

these are built to be used on the narrow block first gen, and second gen and EVO 4 through9 its going to be used with the AWD flywheel, I can build it to accept the FWD but its too confusing to have them machined at a outsource if I switch around

:slobber::slobber:

 

good lord bill i think i need to start making a shopping list of bell housings.

I am building 3 bellhousings right now, I want to be completed in a couple of weeks before I need to do the tax bookeeping at the end of the year

all the planning and designing is over, now its just old fashioned sanding

sand and fill sand and fill

I am building 3 bellhousings right now

 

 

i'm hoping one will be our lonely little subaru housing.

 

but really, what are the three you are finishing up, i'm starting to make my christmas wish list.