im throwin pads on the impreza tomarrow and wanted to no if there was anything i should look out for or something i rly shouldnt do

Nothing special on Subie brakes. Hope all goes well.

then it should be no problem and thanks

in general it's straight forward. remove master cylinder cap before compressing caliper piston. regrease the caliper slide pin boots with brake caliper grease (not the same as other greases used on cars). crucial step that many people (and mechanics) miss or skip.

 

at this age it's common for boots and clips to be in poor shape. if it's fronts i like getting a set of higher quality ceramic pads like ADO (or APO) from NAPA that has all new clips and stuff too, or just getting hardware separately.

 

give us more information if you want help. you're replacing the pads because there's a problem or just to get new pads? you didn't mention front/rear either, but in general sounds like you got it all covered.

Edited May 2, 201015 yr by grossgary

grease the slides

ive done breaks b4 and never took the cap of the master off and yea the grease and its front break pads bc i need to replace them not upgradeing

ive done breaks b4 and never took the cap of the master off and yea the grease and its front break pads bc i need to replace them not upgradeing

 

that should be interesting, greasing the front pads

 

Clean the slide pins with some scotchbrite then lubricate them.

 

 

nipper

sweet no problems. no special tools either.

 

i didn't say every time - but i've seen the MC fail before, if it's a 1 in 100 chance then odds are in your favor, but the extra 15 seconds is worth it to me.

well i did them no real problems i encounterd...just couldnt figure out y the caliper wouldnt sit right but i got it...cleaned the contact points put some grease on em put the caliper pistons back in and was on my way...one thing that ive never seen b4 was the driver side had 2 pistons and the passenger side has one big one and the other thing that was odd was when i test drove it and the pedul went to the floor then it came back...other than that no bigge

well i did them no real problems i encounterd...just couldnt figure out y the caliper wouldnt sit right but i got it...cleaned the contact points put some grease on em put the caliper pistons back in and was on my way...one thing that ive never seen b4 was the driver side had 2 pistons and the passenger side has one big one and the other thing that was odd was when i test drove it and the pedul went to the floor then it came back...other than that no bigge

 

if you did both fronts and one was different, then the 2 pot probably was a replacement. what car are you working on.

 

you should pump up your brakes after replacement, BEFORE you drive it. when you push the pistons in so you can get the new pads to fit around the rotor, you push fluid back into the master cylinder. you need to pump them up to refill the system.

 

did you disconnect any of the brake fluid lines???

you should pump up your brakes after replacement, BEFORE you drive it.

 

 

A good friend of mine drove through a wall at school and popped both airbags because his lab partner didn't do this but said he did.

i was workin on my 97 impreza obw i left everything together just pulled off the old pads cleaned perch spots greased em put new pads on pushed the piston back in to fit around the breaks and bolted it back up and dam that suxxx

When you push the pistons in to make room for the new pads you have to pump the brake pedal, 5-10 times, and only about 75% of the way to the floor to get the space you made between the pads to go away.

 

If you pump all the way to the floor there is a small chance that you could push the master cylinder seal to a portion of the cylinder bore that has not been used and could potentially cause the seal to leak. Rare, but it has happened.

 

Oh, and if you have mis-matching calipers you might get that checked out, unless you like a strong pull, or worst case a spinning car.

well after it went to the floor i felt the pressure bulid up when u picked up the pedul so with aid of the ebreak i stoped and pumped em and got the feeling back the way it was then did plenty of make sure they work fine...and i dont feel any pull but the pads with 2 smaller pistons wore more than the other side

first start tomorrow, after its sat overnight check how hard the pedal is, just to double check.

 

don't forget to "bed" the pads, about 6 high pressure stops, with about 1-2 minutes cool off time between stops. deserted road down from 45-50 ought to do it. You don't want to stomp on the pads, we're not talking panic stop, but a good assertive stop to get the pads and rotors warm.

so basicly just second check the pressure in the lines and wear the new pads ina lil

yeah, I did a brake job that I thought was done well, turns out there was a small leak and the next morning the pedal went to the floor.

well thanks for the heads up ill keep a eye out for it