Do channel locks work good on removing this?

Not realy. You can make anyhting work but the amount of swearing goes up proportionally with the more attempts to use an improper but probable working tool.

Edited July 17, 201015 yr by nipper

I guess swearing it is!

Hmm I'm going to guess when the lower ball joint needs to come out the car needs to be level in order to keep the sway bar level? it was a pain to get the lower BJ out.. I never got it out.

 

I did do the drivers side inner and outer and it was pretty much easy.. I still have that sound so I can't narrow anything out for sure until I figure out how to get the lower BJ out and do the other side on wed.

 

And I was spot on with the alignment.. I did have to check it visually about 7 times before I felt good enough that it was going to track straight and it did on the highway.

bump..

 

Anyone know about the lower balljoint? I did not bring the jack stands with me so I just only had one side jacked up and it was impossible to remove the lower balljoint.. pickle fork and all...

 

and yes I removed the pinch bolt

bump

Not realy. You can make anyhting work but the amount of swearing goes up proportionally with the more attempts to use an improper but probable working tool.

 

Couldnt have said it better!

I just did the ball joints on my 95 Leg and went pretty smooth. Just remove the sway bar bolt, pinch bolt and pry down the lower arm and it should pop out fairly easily. Leave the ball joint connected of course when you pry down the lower arm so it pulls the balljoint out from the knuckle.

You have to disconnect the sway bar from the control arm to get enough room to remove the lower balljoint.

The sway bar also has to be unloaded before you disconnect it. Both front wheels have to be off the ground, otherwise the sway bar will snap up and take your fingers (or any other extremities or objects placed over the bar) with it.

Do you have to remove both bolts on the sway bar? I will try on Friday since it's going to rain on Saturday.

Do you have to remove both bolts on the sway bar? I will try on Friday since it's going to rain on Saturday.

 

No, just the one that is attached to the arm. Yeah my bad, dont forget to have the car up off of the ground and supported when you go to do that!

No, just the one that is attached to the arm. Yeah my bad, dont forget to have the car up off of the ground and supported when you go to do that!

 

 

yeah I will make sure it's supported better this time around.. I tried to save time.. and *cough used my scissor jack without the jack stands.. As soon as I got one bolt of the sway bar the car started to slowly roll back followed my me cursing a few nasty word as I had no other jack near by but the scissor one..

 

It's pretty much done for.. the jack did not bend but the weight of lifting the car so low did the jack in. The interesting part was I had the car in 1st gear and the e-brake up too..

Block the wheels from now on. I keep a set of plastic chock blocks in the trunk that were like $6 at walmart.

Block the wheels from now on. I keep a set of plastic chock blocks in the trunk that were like $6 at walmart.

 

The funny thing is I always block the wheels when I have the front up but I guess this time I was a little forgetful.

 

So how much are scissor jacks anyways?

$70 from here: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=5579

I think I'd go get a bottle jack from the local parts store.

The funny thing is I always block the wheels when I have the front up but I guess this time I was a little forgetful.

 

So how much are scissor jacks anyways?

 

try a salvage yard. 25$ if they keep them around.

Edited July 22, 201015 yr by johnceggleston

I haven't had time yet to do the lower and the other side yet so I just put in the drivers side tie rod but I've noticed that anytime you make a sharp snap turn to the right you get like this knock sound and it will do it also on uneven roads where the wheels need to go up and down.

 

I can't tell if it's from the center or left or right.

 

I hope I can put the car on the stands this weekend but that's pretty iffy with me busy working all this week.

DONT EVER GET UNDER A CAR WITH OUT JACKSTANDS!!! and stop using that subaru scissors jack. That thing is for end of the world emergencys not for working on the car. I would hate for you to get hurt....seen it, don't wish it on anyone.

going to do my brakes on tues and I hope I can do the lower balljoints and the other tierod at the same time I hope the driver side lower balljoint will slip right out it was a pain.. nothing budged at all at the time I tried but at least the bolt did not snap with the impact wrench.

I'm curious on how this worked out for you.

I am about to attempt the same thing on my 95 lego.

Edited September 3, 201015 yr by '84 Flat-Four
yr&model added

I did the passenger side 2 days ago and it was pretty easy.. the hardest thing was getting the nut to back away from the outer tie rod (used heat and PB blaster) What I did not do right is set the alignment up right for the time being until I take it to the shop I spun the outer rod on one too many times..

 

Other then that it's very simple..

 

and OH if you car has those spring type thing that go on the rack boots keep them!!! they are far better then those stupid zip ties sorry I did not do that for the drivers side.

Cool... thanks for the input.

 

My boot is toast... since I'll be in there that's just another item to be replaced. The smaller end still has the spring but the wide end is history.

 

That's nuts that one turn too many is so noticeable. I will keep an eye on this closely.

 

Thanks again!

Also I should say.. I put my boots on before I put it on the car now if you use one of those tie rod tools to make it tight (I used channel locks) then I don't think you can fit the tool on it. nevertheless make sure that you hammer down the flats on the locking ring.