So, I hear you have to undo the torque converter BEFORE you pull the engine from the car if it's an automatic/4EAT?

 

Is this true? Because to the fact that alot of people over in the impreza side of things, rs25 and clubwrx... lota people messed up their 4EAT.

 

 

I hear that you have to turn the crank; and with the little window on the passanger side of the tranny.. you have to unbolt it? And pull up the bolt (4 bolts?) and then you're safe to pull the engine? Then swap it out, realign and then turn crank once more and reput in the bolts in?

That's how I do it.

 

Through the window on the top. I do know some folks that do it underneath. I prefer the top. The proper tool really helps since they are tight and access is so limited.

That's how I do it.

 

Through the window on the top. I do know some folks that do it underneath. I prefer the top. The proper tool really helps since they are tight and access is so limited.

 

Proper tool? What are those?!

 

Like.. what would be needed for this horrid job! D:

I'd have to look at my toolbox to see the size. I'm gonna guess 12mm. But someone will know for sure. I haven't done one since early last fall.

 

I use a swivel head 1/4 ratchet - Snap-on or Gearwrench. Some folks have an offset box end they prefer. Especially with the 1/4 ratchet you'll need a cheater bar most times. And something to hold the crank still. I use a tool I had made for the harmonic balancer.

 

Watch you fingers when they break loose. Sometimes I've been known to hit myself in the face, etc.

 

Dont forget to stuff a hunk of rag in there so you dont' loose the bolt. Especially on the re-install. I use it when removing as well.

I'd have to look at my toolbox to see the size. I'm gonna guess 12mm. But someone will know for sure. I haven't done one since early last fall.

 

I use a swivel head 1/4 ratchet - Snap-on or Gearwrench. Some folks have an offset box end they prefer. Especially with the 1/4 ratchet you'll need a cheater bar most times. And something to hold the crank still. I use a tool I had made for the harmonic balancer.

 

Watch you fingers when they break loose. Sometimes I've been known to hit myself in the face, etc.

 

Dont forget to stuff a hunk of rag in there so you dont' loose the bolt. Especially on the re-install. I use it when removing as well.

 

 

Ah okay... hehehe I got most of that stuff except for the crank holder; hopefully HF has something to keep that still.... MMM tricky tricky.

 

Atleast I didn't pull it and go "why my car no workie" lololol. Def can see why manual is better for this just a clutch cable and throttle and bam done!

there's a recent thread about locking the crank.

 

 

kirby,

so now you know how to remove the engine. be sure to read up on how to re-seat your torque converter before you re-install or you could destroy your trans.

I just use a socket on a breaker bar or big ratchet to hold the crank from the bolt that holds on the pulley. Just take out a bolt, spin the crank clockwise, take out another bolt, etc. Should be easy enough, especially since you should take out the rad to pull the motor anyways. As said before, you don't want to drop any of the flexplate bolts but I've done more than a few of these, and as long as you're not the kinda person that rushes and fumbles with everything you wont have a problem. I also just used a normal ratchet and socket to remove the flexplate bolts.

1/4" ratchet, 12mm shallow socket, 12" bit of PVC pipe for cheater, 1/2" breaker bar and 22mm socket to hold the crank bolt.

 

Pretty simple - unplug the IAC, TPS, and coil pack and pull back the harness - pull the PCV hose off.

 

It's not a bad job at all usually.

 

If the TC slips out of the tranny.... after the engine is out I stand inside the engine bay and carefully rotate and gently push till it slips back in. There should be about 1/16" of the bolt ears protruding past the lip of the bell-housing. It can be a real pain to get it back in place. Sometimes takes 5 or 10 minutes of fiddling with it to get it to slip back in place. You just have to be patient with them.

 

GD

I stand inside the engine bay and carefully rotate and gently push till it slips back in.

 

Can anybody tell me why the TC is so hard to deal with? I've never touched one (too afraid to), but probably will have to in the near future. I just can't understand why it wouldn't go in without issue, is there not a master spline? And if there is then how come you can't just spin and push until it slips in?

 

I know that's what GD said to do, but why would it take 10 mins?