hatchsub Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 In the process of pulling the the motor out of my coupe i pulled the radiator for the millionth time and found out the top piece of metal is separated from the sides and center on the passenger side. My question is can i tack weld it back on or should i just JB weld it? These things are Brazed from the factory right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 In the process of pulling the the motor out of my coupe i pulled the radiator for the millionth time and found out the top piece of metal is separated from the sides and center on the passenger side. My question is can i tack weld it back on or should i just JB weld it? These things are Brazed from the factory right? if its all copper, then its been soldered , and the solder can be redone, must use flux , solder and heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84gl Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 I soldered mine but i guess you could tig weld it they tig copper all the time at my work for the dissteelers in eastman chem. so I say you could weld it since it is brass but you may have a hard time finding some someone that can do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 that's typically soldered/brazed from what i've seen. i would not view JB weld as a long term solution regardless of all the amazing success stories that are shared on the interweb. if there's still any radiator shops in your area they can be really cheap and do it in no time, with a nice tank and set up to make sure they get it all plugged up. it just happened to be separated? no damage, rust, etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 I've seen that happen and I've repaired them before. You have to use acid flux and acid core solder and it has to be UBER clean. Be careful that you don't overheat things and melt the solder on the tubes or the tanks or the fillter neck. You have to use a propane torch..... it's kind of a dying art..... In fact I would just have a radiator shop fix it. It's a huge fricken hassle to fix that yourself if you don't have the right materials. They would probably only charge a minimal fee for it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnc Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 I repaired a radiator on a 1955 army Dodge that was cracked. I used the stuff you buy at Carquest to do it. Probably the same as JB. Hasn't leaked at all in 4 or 5 years since I did it. The radiator is brass. I can't argue with success. cnc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted July 26, 2010 Author Share Posted July 26, 2010 Its got no cracks or leaks. The top mounting point just came undone from the side of the radiator. It looks like it wasnt very securely soldered on anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 super easy....it is virtually impossible to overheat , if you keep the torch moving. bend the mount up a bit, clean vigorously with wire wheel, brush, etc,then bend back down and clamp however you can. heat up just like you would copper pipe.centralize your heat with a little movement so it is even. then insert solder through the hole that is in the top piece.(that is why it was there:))it will the seep into the slight gap between the two metals(the clamping is not a tight clamp, only to hold the piece down flush, it will still seep) i have done this several times.it works fine cheers, brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 The plumber side of me can not keep me quiet.. yup, Gen. D & Monstaru have the right mix... this is a low temp solder job. I use standard solder for use on copper pipe, flux (No-krode mfg) and tourch. Pre-Clean area with wire brush (a 1/2" or 3/4" copper fiting brush works great), schmear with flux using an acid brush then hit it with the heat and add solder.. and yes.. lid off radiator. don't put too much heat near joints as yes.. you can make a leak.. I have fixed like 4 of these thus far.. no biggie. If you want to give it that little extra touch you can clean up the area, tape off and touch up wth black matching paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 You have to use acid flux and acid core solder and it has to be UBER clean. GD Just wanted to highlight the important part. Most people blow right past this part, think solder is solder, and end up screwing themselves over by using the wrong product for the job. It can be done other ways, but, for your average joe without alot of Tig experience, or even soldering experience; the above statement will go a long ways in making this easier for you. Get the acid core solder, and use flux. I don't know how many times I've seen people screw stuff up by thinking flux isn't necessary, because they are "super awesome", and physics don't apply to them! I have to solder radiators around here constantly. Everyone has led you straight about the technique. You can always add more heat, but, it's awfully hard to take the heat out once you blow a hole in something. So, low heat, and alot of movement will be your best bet. GOOD LUCK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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