so, new clutch installed by my favorite mechanic.

 

seems like it gets weird when it warms up. like after an hour of driving, not necessarily alot of shifting either.

 

like it doesn't want to return to the nuetral position all the way.

it feels like the clutch remains engaged but the pedal doesn't rise all the way back.

has me worried. any ideas?

thanks in advance.

so, new clutch installed by my favorite mechanic.

 

seems like it gets weird when it warms up. like after an hour of driving, not necessarily alot of shifting either.

 

like it doesn't want to return to the nuetral position all the way.

it feels like the clutch remains engaged but the pedal doesn't rise all the way back.

has me worried. any ideas?

thanks in advance.

 

Just to quote responses from a post I put out earlier tonight.....

 

Details, details, details!!!!

 

What is the car? Year? Model?

 

Steve

sorry.

98 forester S, 5spd.

exedy street clutch...just for the fun of it. not so fun right now.

Did you replace those 2 little clips when you did the clutch kit?

 

 

Those of the slave are usually what it ends up being for me. I always replace the clips when doing a clutch.

 

Are we supposed to guess at the miles, and miles on this clutch?

 

Folks here are good, but not that good.

Did you replace those 2 little clips when you did the clutch kit?

 

 

Those of the slave are usually what it ends up being for me. I always replace the clips when doing a clutch.

 

Are we supposed to guess at the miles, and miles on this clutch?

 

Folks here are good, but not that good.

 

Aha!!! They still put those silly loose clips between the throw out bearing and lever on the newer models? I figured they'd have fixed that since the EA81 motors....

 

Steve

Aha!!! They still put those silly loose clips between the throw out bearing and lever on the newer models? I figured they'd have fixed that since the EA81 motors....

 

Steve

 

Yep

First though is a slave cylinder going bad.

Second is the aluminum shaft that the release bearing slides on is worn down and the bearing is getting jammed on it as it tries to return to the rest position.

I had the same symptoms last summer in my '99 Forester with then 140K miles.

 

I replaced the slave cylinder, but my problem didn't resolve until I also replaced the master cylinder.

 

Anyone know why you can't buy rebuild kits for those master cylinders?

checking back after a few days...thanks for all the comments. i didn't perform the clutch work. i've done some stuff, but not the clutch.

 

anyways...mileage. car has just under 170k. clutch is brand new except for some in town driving and a trip from lincoln to albuquerque and back. so something like 2000miles on this clutch. i'll ask my wrench about the clipy things. thanks again.

 

to update. drove about 90 miles or so yesterday with no symptoms. clutch was adjusted just prior. not sure what they did exactly...wife had the car.

 

i'll post my progress.

Curious to the resolution.

 

Please post ultimate fix when found.

I had the same symptoms last summer in my '99 Forester with then 140K miles.

 

I replaced the slave cylinder, but my problem didn't resolve until I also replaced the master cylinder.

 

Anyone know why you can't buy rebuild kits for those master cylinders?

 

Because the cylinders need to be honed or machined to break the edge at the end of the pedal stroke. The edge is what kills the cups, or just the age of the cups and the fluid. You need a master and a slave cylinder.

following up. i got nothing. car gets driven...no problems. haven't done anything. perhaps the original 'adjustment' was all it needed. never did find out what that adj was...clutch feels super duper.

had the same issue on my 99 obw. replaced master cylinder and problem fixed. going to install my old one in another car to see if the problem follows the master cyl. it could have just needed bleeding