Hello all

Im new to your site. I need a little advise. Im going to replace the clutch in a 99 legacy I need to know what would be the best option for replacement. I wasnt sure if I should pull the motor or drop the trans. by the way its AWD

Thanks

Chris:horse:

Welcome.

 

Search is your friend.

 

Often discussed.

 

Some drop the tranny.

 

I ALWAYS drop the engine. I think it's simpler and usually do all the other major maintenance at the same time. HG's, crank and cam seals, reseal baffle plate, etc.

 

There was a thread here yesterday/today about someone doing this exact job on a 99.

 

If you search and read you'll see what most folks do.

 

I happen to ge thte new clips from the dealer and a Valeo kit with only japanese and american parts.. I always get the pressure plate resurfaced - but that's me. ALWAYS reseal the baffle plate given the opportunity. Stay away from the rear main seal (don't replace it).

 

My opinions.

 

Search, read, develop your own opinions.

 

Folks here are willing to share. They do prefer that a little research has been done before hand.

Thanks I guess I didnt use the search well enough. I found the other person with the same question. I sure does seem there is no real proper way of doing it. I will probably use the lift and drop the tranny if I'm sure there isn't any motor work needed.

Thanks again

If your there, one more question. You said drop the engine not pull it out? I saw all three options when looking at it without doing one before. In the other forum thread no one discussed dropping the motor. That could be the best option. Is that your opinion?

Engine comes out the top. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Not a bad job really.

Ya just depends on what you prefer. I personally take the engine out as well to do the oil seals and such on it. If the engine is in good shape, no leaks fresh timing belt and such, then the transmission removal may be easier. Just depends what tools you have too.

 

Back when I had a garage I could use I had an engine hoist, but no tranny jack, so going out the top was easier. If you have a tranny jack and no hoist... well going out the bottom may be easier.

Just had a clutch done in my 96 OBW. I bought an Exedy clutch, which is a direct OEM replacement, and the shop pulled the trans. $300.00 labor and the clutch cost me $180.00 with tax from Keystone. Best thing I ever did for this wagon.

Ok thanks again guys for the help

 

Another question I have is this:

The Legacy is my brothers and we are both going to do the work on it at my garage at my place. So we need to know if there is any of you that might have swapped a 2.2 over to a 2.5 He has a fresh 2.5 out of another subaru

What we needed to know is if this will work without a major investment in mods.

Thanks again guys:banana:

I forgot to mention that I have a car lift and a engine hoist to use. With all the tool I need. What I dont know is the difference betweent these two motors

2.2 over to a 2.5

I'm doing the same job on my '98 OBW - but only because the tranny is leaking oil.

 

I guess you've already figured out which approach I've taken

 

Steve

Non turbo - pull engine.

 

Turbo - pull tranny .

 

GD

If you have and engine hoist, then I throw my lot in with the "pull engine" crowd. I've done it both ways, and pulling the engine was by far the more pleasent experience. There may be more bolts you have to put a wrench on, but everything just unbolts from the engine and swings out of the way. You don't have to disconnect the power steering system or AC system so it's really not a big deal.

 

And as Davebugs mentioned, it's the perfect opportunity for a lot of other routine stuff since you'll have easy access.

 

Don't forget to clean and regrease the clutch fork pivot ball.

 

One other note, I'd recommend breaking the harmonic ballancer bolt loose before you pull it. I've been using the "starter motor method" which has been working for me, but there are lots of ways to do it. Anyway, the point is that unless you have an engine stand or some other means of holding the motor stationary once it's out of the car, it can be a real bear to get bolt loose.

 

Good luck!

 

Will-

It's interesting to note - just about the only modern car I've worked on where it's easier to pull the engine for a clutch job (because pulling the engine is so easy) is a Subaru. Honda's, Toyota's, VW's, etc - generally easier to drop the transmission since there's so little clearance to try and get the engine free in a transverse application.

 

Usually easier to do the transmission on American stuff too - since even the RWD's have heavy engines and most of those being trucks (or vans ) have the clearance underneath and are difficult to wrangle the engine out of.

 

Is it any wonder that I swear a lot when working on anything but a Subaru?

 

GD

I forgot to mention that I have a car lift and a engine hoist to use. With all the tool I need. What I dont know is the difference betweent these two motors

2.2 over to a 2.5

 

Again if you search around here - or just pay attention to posts you'll see that the 2.5 isn't as sturdy as the 2.2.

 

Yes if you do the head gasket in time before the rod bearings are effected by getting overheated, and often need to ignore harmless but somewhat noisy piston slap the 2.5 is good. Mind you it's not really that the 2.5's are bad, and really most of their issues are HG related - or atleast start w/HG issues, but the 2.2 is somewhat bullet proof.

 

BTW I have a lift, engine hoist, tranny jack, etc. and still as stated always pull the engine to look it over, reseal it, etc.

One other note, I'd recommend breaking the harmonic ballancer bolt loose before you pull it. I've been using the "starter motor method" which has been working for me, but there are lots of ways to do it. Anyway, the point is that unless you have an engine stand or some other means of holding the motor stationary once it's out of the car, it can be a real bear to get bolt loose.

 

Easy:

 

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202183868&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202183868&ci_src=14110944&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D25X-_-202183868&locStoreNum=4018&marketID=54

 

+

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944996000P?vName=Tool%20Catalog&cName=Mechanic'sTools&sName=Drive%20Tools%20&%20Ratchets&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00944996000P

 

+

 

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=22mm+impact+socket&cid=2140107396625314653&ei=8K2WTN7vLpi4iwTI672fCw&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

 

 

Takes about half a dozen good solid blows generally. Pull radiator, slip socket and ratchet over the crank bolt, smack toward the end of the ratchet - reset the posistion of the ratchet and repeat till the bolt spins free.

 

It's just like using an impact but no air supply and works with the engine in the car (or out). This is how it's done at the junk yard. Works every time.

 

Incidentally, this method works for alternator pulley bolts, cam pulley bolts.... etc. Just about anything that spins and can't be easily held or stopped from rotating.

 

GD