Ricearu Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I bought a 1998 forester S EJ25D 2 weeks ago and 2 days ago I noticed the death rattle from the bottom end. My gauge cluster says 101,500. Is this common for rod bearings to fail at 100k on the ej25d? this was a 1 owner car and is in really good shape. only thing I can think of is maybe a gauge cluster replacement was done, does anyone on here have an unlimited carfax account and can run a vin for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 i would go get the oil changed asap. That is a sign of old oil not getting to your lifters etc.....or it maybe had been cooked with the headgasket issue. Do you get lots of tiny air bubbles in your overflow tank after a nice drive? To check for that, go for a 30 minute drive, pull the car over with it still running, open the hood, and look into the top of the overflow tank. If you got bubbles coming in there, then you have a classic headgasket failure, and that means it may have overheated on the owner before, and he might have cooked the bearings. again do a oil change asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 First night i had it, it got castrol 10-30 gtx and a WIX oil filter. Old oil was clean but dark, no abnormal metal fragments (micro glitter) in it, and the coolant was full and green, still full and green and no bubbles, no overheat, and no mix of water into the new oil. I think it is ready to spontaneously explode and shove the rod through the block. I don't know. Its not piston slap but it does do it more when cold. Can I drop the pan and change the rod bearings without splitting the case? I know it's ghetto but I just need it to last as long as possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Piston slap will be a steady tak tak tak when it's running. It may quiet as it heats up, but not go away. My mom's EJ25 has been loudly slapping away for the 50k we've had it. Sounds like a diesel when you start it up. Depending on different oils it may get louder or quieter. Rod bearings will change tone if you rev it up, then snap the throttle shut. As the rpms come back down a rod bearing will make a very distinct back-rattle. Honestly if it is bearings it's not worth replacing them. Just grab a known good shortblock or a EJ22 from a 95 automatic car and drop it in. For the $300 good used EJ22's go for it's cheaper than replacing rod bearings and head gaskets on the EJ25. Sometimes they just spin bearings. Did you fill the filter with oil when you changed it or did you dry start it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 Piston slap will be a steady tak tak tak when it's running. It may quiet as it heats up, but not go away. My mom's EJ25 has been loudly slapping away for the 50k we've had it. Sounds like a diesel when you start it up. Depending on different oils it may get louder or quieter. Rod bearings will change tone if you rev it up, then snap the throttle shut. As the rpms come back down a rod bearing will make a very distinct back-rattle. Honestly if it is bearings it's not worth replacing them. Just grab a known good shortblock or a EJ22 from a 95 automatic car and drop it in. For the $300 good used EJ22's go for it's cheaper than replacing rod bearings and head gaskets on the EJ25. Sometimes they just spin bearings. Did you fill the filter with oil when you changed it or did you dry start it? It makes the back rattle if you rev it, then snap the throttle, etc. I did not dry start it, I primed the filter. I always do if possible (not on my gl, because of sideways filter.) On my gl, i usually pull the ECU fuse and crank for 30-45 seconds to fill the filter. then start it. why an ej22 from a 95 automatic car? what is the significance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Can I drop the pan and change the rod bearings without splitting the case? no. zero access to #1 cylinder. very little access to any of the others. And from what I've seen.....#1 is ussually the first one to escape the confines of it's aluminum alloy prison. (5 subaru engines I've seen with rods though the top; 1 EA81, 1 EA82, one EJ22 and 2 EJ25s. ALL of them tossed the #1 rod) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 #1 goes on alot of 4 cylinders because it is the farthest from the rear main bearing, where oil is pumped into the crank for the rod bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 (edited) (5 subaru engines I've seen with rods though the top; 1 EA81, 1 EA82, one EJ22 and 2 EJ25s. ALL of them tossed the #1 rod) Interesting - my EA81 (back in like '04) tossed the #3. But aside from that one I haven't torn down any other's that had thrown a rod. I've seen a few but only in passing - never got into details like which rod it was, etc. EJ25D's throw rods because they get overheated and the oil isn't changed immediately after. It's just a side-effect of the bad head gaskets. Some people refuse to replace them and keep driving it - repeated overheating cycles will damage the oil and of course if they aren't doing the head gaskets they also don't know enough to change the oil either..... GD Edited October 15, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 (edited) #1 goes on alot of 4 cylinders because it is the farthest from the rear main bearing, where oil is pumped into the crank for the rod bearings. Actually just the opposite. On EJ engines, the #1 crank journal and the #1 rod are the first branches of the oil line. First place for crud to get to a bearing. (and the only branch that DOESN'T travel up to the top of the block then back down. heavier than oil metal particles may take this route more easily than fighting gravity to make it to the top and across to other branches) Second branching is at the top of the block where the OP sender is. passage "T"s then runs to the rear down the RH side, and across the front to the LH side The Passage runs across top of the RH block to the rear, where # 4 and 5 main, and #4 rod are fed. Everything else is fed from the LH case, which is fed from a line at he top of the case where the feed runs to the rear. First on that side is the #2 main, then # 3 main which feeds the #2 and 3 rods. So actually 2 and 3 rods are the "farthest" from the oil pump. Edited October 15, 2010 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 JEEZ, that is alot of awesomeness. I forgot these are not typical 4 cylinders lol. the valve cover gaskets are hella recent, they are still blue and the engine is clean as a bell, I am guessing the HG's were replaced and everyone here is correct in thinking the hgs have been done. that is just my best guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1roughneck Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 JEEZ, that is alot of awesomeness. I forgot these are not typical 4 cylinders lol. the valve cover gaskets are hella recent, they are still blue and the engine is clean as a bell, I am guessing the HG's were replaced and everyone here is correct in thinking the hgs have been done. that is just my best guess Are the valve cover gaskets blue cuz the gaskets are blue, or did someone use an excessive amount of ultra blue silicone gasket sealer? A bunch of that squeezed into the engine will surely make it knock when it plugs up the oil channels and the pickup screen. (had an old escort do that...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 why an ej22 from a 95 automatic car? what is the significance? The EJ22 had the EGR valve on the Automatic, not the 5-speed, AND the dual-port exhaust heads in '95, which match your EJ25D exactly. The newer EJ22's work too, just make sure it has the EGR and their single-port exhaust header/Y-pipe. Other than minimal vac line rerouting, it's plug-n-play...the Forester's ECU will run it. Also, you checked your heat shields? They've been known to rattle....Just checking the simple stuff, too. GL, Td Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 Are the valve cover gaskets blue cuz the gaskets are blue, or did someone use an excessive amount of ultra blue silicone gasket sealer? A bunch of that squeezed into the engine will surely make it knock when it plugs up the oil channels and the pickup screen. (had an old escort do that...) what i meant is that they are fresh and clean. its not RTV sealant, its really clean down there. I would expect oil leaks at this mileage does anyone have a carfax unlimited I could use, I will just give you the vin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 just turn up the radio did you ever figure this one out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 You sure it's a rod knock and not the timing belt tensioner flapping around? Or the water pump about to grenade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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