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re drill Q need grinder WA

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i searched and found two solutions to countersinking re-drilled holes in my newly purchased wheels. the first solution was use a die grinder. i dont have access to one.

 

 

on another thread i read and saw pics of a lug nut with 3 slots ground across the acorn. they then used the lug nut to create a home for its brothers.

 

I bought a countersink bit today and it sucks. anybody in pierce co WA have a grinder and some time today? goodies on me

 

RV

  • Author

call my cell ill be in the garage "adjusting" the loyale to take the wheels (at least i can do that

 

253 three zero 1 seven four 0 two

 

 

Rob V

Can you flip the nuts over on the drilled holes so two factory holes center the wheel and the others tighten?

  • Author

my lug nuts dont have holes in thew top:mad: if i could pull that off do you think it would be safe?

  • Author

thanks scott, i went to 3 different places today and didnt see one. do you have any idea where i could find one?

 

RV

 

PS these tires are HUGE i spent the day basically wrecking the front end(no big, it had a couple issues anyway). the cool thing is the wheels dont have a large offset so the tires dont stick way out of my now bashed fenders.

 

 

RV

place that deals in machine shop supplies,

 

 

 

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Bevel-Cutter-1-2-x-60-/H2966

 

 

 

H2966 Bevel Cutter 1/2" x 60°

 

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my lug nuts dont have holes in thew top:mad: if i could pull that off do you think it would be safe?

 

yes it works great.

 

I personally gave up beveling rims after about the 3rd set. It's hard to do.

 

Additionally, should your new holes be Slightly off center, now the bevel will try to force the whole rim off center. Also, the metal you drilled thorugh probably got hot, lost temper of metal, and is now prone to "mushrooming" from the force of a beveled nut. The original holes are most likely hardened.

 

Whereas, if you just drill the hole and put a flat nut on it, all the force is clamp force, and none of it is trying to "fight" the other 2 factory holes to keep the wheel centered.

 

I personally have less shaking, and feel safer with straight drilled holes, and a flat nut.

  • Author

well thats something to ponder.......ill be going to harbor freight today to get the bevel. if that doesnt work out i should still be able to run the upside-down lugs right?

 

RV

well thats something to ponder.......ill be going to harbor freight today to get the bevel. if that doesnt work out i should still be able to run the upside-down lugs right?

 

RV

 

Ive been running and seen flopped lug nuts on flat holes for years

  • Author

ok i ordered my bevel. Thanx Scott. on my rims the area where the holes are isnt completely flat. in fact its convex around the ring, i assume i can file/grind that flat and be ok. please correct me if i am wrong or going overboard.

 

this is my first mod of his nature so theres a lot i dont know yet and i just wanna be cautious.

 

again thank you to everybody

 

RV

ok i ordered my bevel. Thanx Scott. on my rims the area where the holes are isnt completely flat. in fact its convex around the ring, i assume i can file/grind that flat and be ok. please correct me if i am wrong or going overboard.

 

this is my first mod of his nature so theres a lot i dont know yet and i just wanna be cautious.

 

again thank you to everybody

 

RV

 

Shouldn't matter.

 

Don't grind it flat. If you are gonna use the bevel tool, it will cut the "pocket" even.

 

If you decide to not bevel and use flat nuts, they will clamp tight even with that bit of convex. I've used Nissan and Isuzu wheels with that same convex and it's not a problem.

on my current set I ground out the bevel.Then to my dismay the holes werent perfect so it was forcing the lugs crooked.so I just flipped open nuts over and just run them like that.

 

2 nuts the correct way in the original holes and 2 nuts flipped in the drilled holes..

When I did my first set many years ago all I had was a dremel tool with a carbide burr and a single-speed 1/2" drill that was older than my father. Patience and attention to detail is what is required. I drilled the holes - piloted them with 1/8" through the center punch and then 1/4", and then up to the lug size. Then I carefully beveled the holes with my dremel tool - I made a small 60* gauge from a bit of sheet metal with my tin snips and checked my work as went.

 

They run straight and true and all my lugs are bevel-side toward the wheel :).

 

GD

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