thefalsediviner Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) OK, I've got a burnt clutch. I've read the Chilton's manual and watched Miles Fox's video series. I'm thinking I ought to pull the motor and fix my badly leaking rear crank seal while I'm at it. I'm also thinking at 206K, I should replace the front crank and cam seals, timing belts , idler pulleys, seeping head & valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket and perform the bare timing belt mod. Given the vehicle was getting 28-29mpg prior to the burnt clutch, I'm thinking I don't have any head work unless I see something on inspection. Does anybody have anything to add? TFD Edited November 5, 2010 by thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 ... I should replace the ... timing belts ... it Depends on How many Miles they have... if they're near 60,000 then Do it. ... and perform the bare timing belt mod. ... You mean to leave them Without Covers, isn't it? ...Does anybody have anything to add? ... Yes, the Oil Pump: Due to your Subie's engine Mileage, I Kindly Suggest you to Change it... or it will Fail Soon. (if it haven't been Serviced Yet) Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted November 4, 2010 Author Share Posted November 4, 2010 Thank you, TFD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 Arggh: talking to shucks/orielly parts guys on the phone is taxing. I believe that my 92 4wd loyale requires a 8 13/16ths " x 1" x 24(disc o.d. x spline i.d. x teeth). Am I correct ???? also am I correct in thinking that between the felpro conversion gasket set mentioned in Miles' video and the Felpro head gasket set I'm good minus the front crank seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 It's very rare for the oil pumps to go completely bad, so I highly suggeat you just rebuild it with new O-rings and clean it thoroughly. It would probably be cheapest to get the mickey mouse o-ring from the dealer and then source the rest of the necessary o-rings from a hydraulics shop. Best way is just to bring it in to the hydraulics shop and let them figure out what size and thickness o-rings you'll need. Twitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 Thanks guys, I'll keep all that on advisement. I've got a hoist rig up, and I'll be starting first thing in the morning. All the initial parts will be available at 2pm tomorrow. I'll my progress. thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 I just rebuilt an EA82. I learned the hard way that you should just get OEM Subaru branded gaskets, at least for both manifolds to the block. I also used OEM brand seals on the oil pump shaft and rear crank seal. I got them online real cheap by searching. Also, the Orielly folks screwed up on my clutch kit. They specked me the wrong one, so I kindly returned it and ordered the correct one. I think there is a picture of the part number on my thread or the link to my pics. (not that it is the same spline count as yours...?) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114817 Anyways, good luck and hit us up if you have any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted November 7, 2010 Author Share Posted November 7, 2010 What a nightmare this one is. I'll need every gasket I ordered, oil coming from everywhere. The engine removal got off to a 2.5 hour delay when one of the fan clutch nuts was found in a rounded state. Finally had to hacksaw the nut off. Luckily there was enough of the stud to make removing that easy. Got about an hour left and it will be out and on the bucket. thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 Update: Been rough going here with this car. After my initial burst of enthusiasm, reality and my real recent back surgery put this repair on the good days only schedule. The engine is presently out, heads off, on my bench. The amount of cleaning and the JB Weld removal equals a new winner in the nastiest engine I ever pulled contest. It is absolutely a testament to these engines that something in this state of repair was pulling just at 29mpg when I started this project. The valve covers were literally poo-pooed ( JB Weld) to the cam carriers which was poo-pooed to the heads. I actually had to chisel the poo-poo blobs from the bottom exterior cam carrier bolts so I could remove them. The good news is JB Weld responds to the dremel well enough. Today I'll be finishing up with the JB Weld removal, clean up and parts inspection. At first glance I'm not seeing a whole lot of work for the machine shop, so maybe there won't be any delay on that front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 Wow! JB weld on the cam carrier - that's a new one. People really are morons aren't they? Use the Fel-Pro head gaskets (bought individually) - use NOTHING else from those clowns. They make most of the rest from gasket paper and it's not adequate at all - especially the intake/exhaust manifold gaskets and the water pump, etc. I get all the rest at the dealer. Use Loctite 518 (or permatex equivelent) on the water pump. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 A lot of times i hae ordered fel=pro complete gasket sets, there was a mix of mexican made cam seals to OEM headgaskets in the mis, and oem valve cover grommets, valve guide seals, but paper/steel laminated intake and exhaust gaskets, and cork oil pan. if you get parts individually, look for NOK seals, and look for the metal/graphite intake/exhaust gaskets from FHI or victor reinz. Take the time to go to NAPA as oreilley isnt good for much more than oil and car care fluids, and plastic stick-on dress up garbage. Make sure you get a new pressure plate with the clutch disc, and to not overtighten the cable, just enough to take the slack out of the fork and that is it! once the cable is adjusted, then adjust the hill holder cable. your clutch set will be the one that cross references with ANY 4wd 5mt single range, dual range , or full-time transmission 1985-1994. the other exceptions a fwd ea81/ea82, ea81 4wd 4spd, and legacy/impreza for those range of years good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 Thanks a lot guys, valuable information for sure. I've all ready got all my gasket sets and will be re-buying a couple of things individually. Like you both said poor quality and I noticed it at, at first sight. I've also got some good quality gasket material and know how if need be. One question though. I can't for sure say the rear main is leaking even at a seep. I'm shocked as it is the only seal that is not an obvious bleeder. This engine has well over 225k on it and I have the new seal, Yes or no? thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 Normally, these don't go bad until high mileage. Mine was only at 140,000 miles and it was on an overheated engine and was brittle. I picked up an NOK (OEM) online for $7 by searching google shopping. Be cautious when installing this as it can go in very crooked and eventually too deep. Note the brand and depth of the old seal and report back here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Well I've got the short block just about in order. Need to go once over on the cleaning and then I can mount the heads. The seals were all OEM as far as I could decipher and the rear main and front crank seals were both flush. No problems what so ever with putting the new seals in. The oil pump took a second to figure out how to get the pulley off, then was reasonably straight forward. No real setbacks today. thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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