Lets stay with one car at a time otherwise we all will get confused.

Ok. I have no spark. I have changed all fuses. I have replaced the, Crank &cam sensors, coil igniter, coil, ecu, have not found a wire short.

 

Now what I was saying about my friends car, he has the exact same symptoms only his mostly starts fine. When it doesn't, he can push start it. I have not tried to push start it yet but will tommarrow if all works out.

 

The reason I mention it is:whatever is his problem, could be mine.

 

Could the starter be draining so much, that it not allowing some relay somewhere to fail to do whatever???? Though I believe there are no starter relays on this sub.

 

What you think??

Your freinds car does not have the same exact issue. If you can push start his car he has spark.

Ok. I have no spark. I have changed all fuses. I have replaced the, Crank &cam sensors, coil igniter, coil, ecu, have not found a wire short.

 

Now what I was saying about my friends car, he has the exact same symptoms only his mostly starts fine. When it doesn't, he can push start it. I have not tried to push start it yet but will tommarrow if all works out.

 

The reason I mention it is:whatever is his problem, could be mine.

 

Could the starter be draining so much, that it not allowing some relay somewhere to fail to do whatever???? Though I believe there are no starter relays on this sub.

 

What you think??

 

Ok when people start replacing parts blindly I back out of a thread because it just introduces way too many variables.

 

Good Luck

Oh, WOW, I had known good parts, and was told that is the best and easiest way to diagnose. I didn't know I was pissing away a good asset:confused:

Ok.

Your freinds car does not have the same exact issue. If you can push start his car he has spark.

 

I believe him.He says when he cranks it he has no spark-meaning-no spark.

when he push starts it, something obviously changes. The only thing I can think of is either some relay, or starter draw, you say this is impossible, and I know this guy, 44 year old get anything running, car auction hound. So i believe him when he says no spark. Sure it may not be the same as my problem, but since you are the best electrical guru, I thought I would ask.

 

Ok have a nice day:rolleyes:

Swapping parts is easy and is a perfectly fine way to test things IF, if if if, you already have the parts. I don't recommend anyone go waste money on new parts to try to fix something when they don't know with absolute certainty that said part is the problem. Swapping the ECU is the hardest of all of those, only because you have to pull back the carpet to get to it, so I don't see where Nipper thinks you have "gone wrong" by swapping parts. But I can understand that he may be frustrated from previous experiences with people who want to swap parts, and do no other testing/diagnosis to rule out various components or circuits.

But since a "swapped" part may in fact add to the problem if it doesn't fix it, you should remove it and re-install the old parts.

 

What, if any, other testing have you done to help track down the problem? Anything besides checking for short circuits? Did you ever determine a cause for the blown fuses?

If there is no spark to the plugs while in the START mode then check to see if power is getting to the plus side of the coil while cranking the engine. There may be a problem with the ignition switch in the start position. Check the fusible links for a loose connection also.

As far as the blown fuses, only the arcing starter and that is an assumption, nothing has blown since, either cause whaterever else is fried too, or the losse starter was the cause.

 

 

What is the "plus side of the coil" ? is that side a little bigger?.....

 

No really what is the plus side? I have no power out of the coil while cranking.

 

Oh I see, the sparkwire side is the plus side, no spark there while cranking.

 

Are there other fusable links, besides the onle in the main relay box?

 

I had already put back the original parts back that I had changed out.

 

So what wires do I test to see if it is the ignition switch? Thanks Dann

Sorry for the misinformation. I was thinking of an earlier model. The cat has wandered off the trail. If there is a yellow wire going to the coil there should be power on it that comes from fuse 16.

Ok, yellow wire to coil, I assume that is with the key on. Now my backup car is dying. The car left is the 1989 subie sw e82 (no turbo), I bought last year for 100.00. I could license my gashog 83 4x4 ramcharger. I hate problems:banghead: I should pick up another e81 or e82 vehicle. Oh that reminds me, I need to post on a e81 exhaust "block"? anyway. Thanks

Ok, yellow wire to coil, I assume that is with the key on.

 

That is correct.

I do has 12.5 volts to dat wire. thank ee., next.

Check to see if there are any codes stored and see if the ignitor has power getting to it on the yellow wire.

Ok I'll with the coil igniter wire, but my diagnosing plug is dead, and will not communicate any codes(and never has, even while car was running).Also my engine light has never worked, running, or pre-start with key on. would love to have that fixed, of course this at least could be easier, thanks Dann.

Check the SBF fuses under hood and make sure they are all ok. You have a number of issues with the car. I suggest you purchase at least a factory wiring manual for the car. It will help you a lot in finding the problems and fixing them.

I've replaced all sbf fuses, and have a complete factory wiring manual, but I find it difficult to trace, understand and apply what fragments I do understand to the problem.When I figure this out, I plan to make a step by step trouble shooter with pics for all the slobs like me. It took me a week to figure out TCS was transmission control system, if that is even right,. Thanks Dann

See if pin 7 of the check connector has 12 volts on it. If it doesn't check fuse 15.

Edited January 24, 201115 yr by Cougar

See if oin 17 of the check connector has 12 volts on it. If it doesn't check fuse 15.

 

Wha??? sorrry, no comprenda

ok, I got the fuse # 15, but the other? Thanks Danno

Sorry for the typo. I must have been pretty tired when I did that post. I made the correction to my previous post. The word should have been pin, and number 7, not 17.

 

Looking at this again I meant to check the power going to the OBD2 connector, not the check connector. Check pin 1 (red wire) on the OBD-2 connector and make sure power is getting to that pin. Fuse SBF-2 supplies power to that pin.

Edited January 24, 201115 yr by Cougar

hey if you want i can help you out/ talk you through the test procedures etc. I have had a couple ecu issues related to shorts in the wiring and a bad battery. So thats probably your issue. As far as I know any ecu for an auto (95-98) will work. email me and ill give you my cell. also if you want to email me the wiring diagram then we will be looking at the same picture..

Thanks guys, the last week and a half has been nuts. I have not unlocked the car in that time, and it will not be untill Fri. before I do, Thanks, and I will do. see ya, Danno

Nothing new, I have been ignoring the problem, hoping it goes away:burnout:

maybe monday.

Wow been a long time, not even done the basics. wiring scares me:confused:, but i have some time off and may do the continuity test for every wire from ecu pin to all their destinations. Should this be done in a heated shop with the wife bringing in sweet and tasty Christmas leftovers, or in the cold rain or snow in the driveway like I was planning?