My car seems to be getting a new problem. Lately, if I really stomp on the gas, a massive squealing noise comes from the engine and though the RPMs go up, the car barely moves. The engine also makes a squealing noise in higher RPMs on the freeway. It doesn't, however, seem to have the lack of power issue on the freeway, just the noise. The belts seem to be tight. Any ideas?

Year?

Mileage?

Manual?

 

If it is manual it is a fried clutch, if not we need to dig into it more.

Year?

Mileage?

Manual?

 

If it is manual it is a fried clutch, if not we need to dig into it more.

 

 

'95

185,000

manual.

 

 

Clutch seems fine. I've tried a few different tests and it came out fine.

What kind of tests?

 

Real test is the car barely moving and the squealing in high torque situations.

 

Clutch is NFG,as suggested.

Edited January 4, 201115 yr by naru

There are no "Clutch Tests". There is just one to see if the clutch is going, and thats when a car can move under it's own power.

 

In essence everytime you step on the gas and your rpms go up and the car does not go faster that is a failed clutch test.

 

That screaming noise you hear is what is left of your clutch destroying your flywheel. Thats is metal against metal noise.

Hopefully just accessory belts.

Hopefully just accessory belts.

 

only if it was

 

"Lately, if I really stomp on the gas, a massive squealing noise comes from the engine and though the RPMs go up, the car barely moves"

It's pretty obvious if the rpm's shoot up and the speed doesn't. Maybe he alternator/ps belt isn't grabbing not enough electricity XD

It's pretty obvious if the rpm's shoot up and the speed doesn't. Maybe he alternator/ps belt isn't grabbing not enough electricity XD

 

 

"the belts seem to be tight"

 

If what you think was true, he could easily reproduce it in his driveway.

lol you know what's funny I missed both things you quoted me on in the original post I need to slow down and read XD

I can put the car in 5th gear and it'll move. But if I put it in first and **really** give it the beans (I guess you could say trying to take off, though I barely ever do it), that's when the problem happens. It doesn't sound metallic, either.

 

But yeah, it moves under its own power under normal circumstances. Example of what I'm talking about when I gun it is when I was stuck behind an old lady on the on ramp. She came to a sudden stop and when she went again, I either had to stomp on the gas to avoid being clobbered by a gas truck. When I did, it moved, but it was a painful and pathetic movement. I drove to the next exit, pulled off to the side of the road, let it rest for about 20 seconds, and it drove normal after that. It's happened three other times, but the noise is still there in the higher RPMs on the freeway (I'd say 4k and above).

Your clutch is done. Find a reputable shop or local USMB board member and get it replaced. Its not the accessories belts, not when you stop on it and it sluggishly moves, that's a fried clutch. Mine is being done by a board member whenever I can shake this bug I've had for 5 days.

I can put the car in 5th gear and it'll move. But if I put it in first and **really** give it the beans (I guess you could say trying to take off, though I barely ever do it), that's when the problem happens. It doesn't sound metallic, either.

 

But yeah, it moves under its own power under normal circumstances. Example of what I'm talking about when I gun it is when I was stuck behind an old lady on the on ramp. She came to a sudden stop and when she went again, I either had to stomp on the gas to avoid being clobbered by a gas truck. When I did, it moved, but it was a painful and pathetic movement. I drove to the next exit, pulled off to the side of the road, let it rest for about 20 seconds, and it drove normal after that. It's happened three other times, but the noise is still there in the higher RPMs on the freeway (I'd say 4k and above).

The noise you are hearing is probably a long destroyed throw out bearing, like I said your due for a new clutch kit, and throwout bearing.

I've always had the opposite. Clutch slips in higher gears under acceleration, or if you go fast enough, just trying to fight the wind, before it will slip in lower gears.

 

I wanna say clutch.

If you suspect accessory belts, remove them and drive the car around the block. It won't hurt anything, unless your battery is dead, or you aren't strong enough to turn the steering wheel without power steering.

agreed, do check the more accessible items first, but it does sound like your clutch and TOB are done for, I'd get it checked out and fixed before you have a bigger problem.

So you really think it's the clutch even though the car drives 100% perfectly fine? It pulls itself up hills just fine when feathering off the clutch and it feels just fine.

"the RPMs go up, the car barely moves."

 

Is there anything more that needs saying?

Edited January 6, 201115 yr by naru

Do this. Drive down a back road somewhere not to far from home. Something not busy with traffic, where you can run 40-45mph safely. In 5th gear, at about 40-45mph, push in the clutch, push and hold the gas pedal to the floor, let it rev up to about 5000 rpm then drop the clutch, Right foot still plastered to the floor like your life depends on it.

 

Heres what should happen. It should jump, kick and lurch around, but engine speed should immediately drop back to running rpm for that gear at that speed, roughly 2000 rpm.

If engine speed does NOT immediately drop, it slowly rides back down over the course of several seconds, or stays at 5000 rpm or goes higher, and it makes the same screaming noise, the clutch is bad.

 

The other good clutch test, which is more for older stuff with metal bumpers, is to pull up to a big tree and set the parking brake. Rev the engine and drop the clutch in 4th gear. Car stalls right away, clutch is good. It keeps running, clutch is bad.

just because it pulls up hills doesn't always mean the clutch is good. I'd put my money on the disc and TOB any day.

Do this. Drive down a back road somewhere not to far from home. Something not busy with traffic, where you can run 40-45mph safely. In 5th gear, at about 40-45mph, push in the clutch, push and hold the gas pedal to the floor, let it rev up to about 5000 rpm then drop the clutch, Right foot still plastered to the floor like your life depends on it.

 

Heres what should happen. It should jump, kick and lurch around, but engine speed should immediately drop back to running rpm for that gear at that speed, roughly 2000 rpm.

If engine speed does NOT immediately drop, it slowly rides back down over the course of several seconds, or stays at 5000 rpm or goes higher, and it makes the same screaming noise, the clutch is bad.

 

The other good clutch test, which is more for older stuff with metal bumpers, is to pull up to a big tree and set the parking brake. Rev the engine and drop the clutch in 4th gear. Car stalls right away, clutch is good. It keeps running, clutch is bad.

 

I shall do this tomorrow. I have a feeling I know what the result will be, but I'll give it a shot and post the results.

 

On a related note; sans installation, how much should I expect to pay for parts on a bad clutch? I've never had one before.

Ok, well... I did what FairTax said to do. In my opinion, the car did great. But it didn't drop down to a lower RPM, it just grabbed the gear and launched me forward. That's sort of what I'd normally expect (and hope) to happen, because it seems like it's what SHOULD happen. Honestly, if that's the sign of a bad clutch, I don't know if I want a new one.

 

If it's any warmer out tomorrow, I'll try taking the belts off and see where that leads me.

 

Just to rule out anything else, is there any possibility whatsoever that this could be my timing belt?

Do this. Drive down a back road somewhere not to far from home. Something not busy with traffic, where you can run 40-45mph safely. In 5th gear, at about 40-45mph, push in the clutch, push and hold the gas pedal to the floor, let it rev up to about 5000 rpm then drop the clutch, Right foot still plastered to the floor like your life depends on it.

 

Heres what should happen. It should jump, kick and lurch around, but engine speed should immediately drop back to running rpm for that gear at that speed, roughly 2000 rpm.

If engine speed does NOT immediately drop, it slowly rides back down over the course of several seconds, or stays at 5000 rpm or goes higher, and it makes the same screaming noise, the clutch is bad.

 

The other good clutch test, which is more for older stuff with metal bumpers, is to pull up to a big tree and set the parking brake. Rev the engine and drop the clutch in 4th gear. Car stalls right away, clutch is good. It keeps running, clutch is bad.

 

Oh, and it only squealed once. But I paid very close attention to where the sound was coming from, and it seemed to be the very front of the car. When it made the noise, the car still ran just fine... it was very, very brief. But like I said, I did exactly as you instructed and the car just grabbed wherever the revs were and kept going wonderfully. And to make sure, I did this 5 times. On the 5th time, I took it up to 65 and dropped it, and that's when the noise occurred. But no issue in terms of the revs going up or down; just catching and going. It really, really, REALLY doesn't seem to be an issue. I just want to completely rule out the timing belt tensioner.

Honestly, if that's the sign of a bad clutch, I don't know if I want a new one.

 

Oh you'll want one when it goes out and you can't drive it anymore. And this is exactly what my car was doing before it quit and it was actually the pilot bearing of all things so it could be that (either way might as well replace everything since you're in there) but TOB sounds more since it was squealing and mine wasn't. I can understand your reluctance to do the clutch as they are a pain in the bum but it's something that should be done. Clutch kits vary usually they start around $150 and go on up, another thing to consider is prices on flywheels if it needs to be replaced due to cracks and such, engine coolant if you're pulling the engine or tranny fluid if your going that way (not recommended if you can help it) and random other stuff to do while you got it up in the air. This link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116167 has some good stuff on what else to do while it's in the air.

Edited January 7, 201115 yr by Goobysoobs

So we've completely ruled out the possibility of it being a timing belt issue?

So we've completely ruled out the possibility of it being a timing belt issue?

 

if your timing belt was making that noise i think your car would quit running fairly soon and there is NO WAY for the timing belt to contribute to the RPM problem.

 

we can only offer opinions and advice based on the info you give us. we can't see or touch the car. so when you say the rpms went up and the car didn't accelerate that means bad clutch. when you say squeeling noise we say probably the clutch, but it could be the AC or alternator belt. but neither of those would cause the RPMs to fluctuate.

 

it doesn't sound like you are very happy with the conclusion that the clutch needs to be replaced, i don't blame you. but if you replace it you can drive another 150k? miles without messing with it again.

 

i'm not a clutch guy, but i would guess a shop would charge $500 - $600 for a clutch job.

 

it that a realistic price range?