Whats a good place to get Stainless lines for the EA82? Links anyone? This summer I would like to replace them on my EA82.

 

-Tom

Edited January 15, 201115 yr by TheLoyale

nobody makes them specifically for Ea82s

 

 

Fronts are for sure interchangeable with EJ stuff. IIRC rears can be as well, just have to grab a banjo bolt from an EJ, and they'll be waaaayyyy too long.

 

 

Or, grab a spare rubber one for the front and rear, and you should be able to find a local hydraulics place that can crimp the right connections onto a chunk of braided line.

Alright, that puts me in a good direction. Thank you!

 

I'm waiting for Clint to reply to me, Since he has Stainless lines on Monsterwedge.

 

But now, if you were to drop the crossmember for a 3" lift, the longer lines would probably be pretty close to the right length.

 

Since I only have front disc, I would only need them on the front. Unless I get ambitious and swap for rear disc.

 

Cheers and thanks again!

 

-Tom

 

nobody makes them specifically for Ea82s

 

 

Fronts are for sure interchangeable with EJ stuff. IIRC rears can be as well, just have to grab a banjo bolt from an EJ, and they'll be waaaayyyy too long.

 

 

Or, grab a spare rubber one for the front and rear, and you should be able to find a local hydraulics place that can crimp the right connections onto a chunk of braided line.

Ive got my 4" lift ones for sale from my ea81 wagon and I think they would work. Marketplace has the ad.

With a 4" lift, the crossmember is dropped what, 1.5?

 

About how long at your brake lines your selling? I did find the ad.

 

-Tom

Front is 25"

Rear is 23.5" and replaces the short section as well so it goes all the way to the hard line straight to the rear disc caliper.

With a 4" lift, the crossmember is dropped what, 1.5?

 

depends on the design. every one I've installed we left the crossmember against the body.

 

 

brake lines for rear drums are a bit different. you'll have to get a bit creative. IIRC the thread size for where the line attaches to the cylinder is smaller than on a caliper. so you might have to find something else there. or just have a braided line made to replace the short line between the body and trailing arm.

Edited January 14, 201115 yr by Numbchux

Hoses. Brake Hoses. not lines. Stainless lines are a pita to get to seal at the flare fittings, as well has hard to flare in the first place. Stainless braided hoses are a different thing entirely and easy to work with.

Hoses. Brake Hoses. not lines. Stainless lines are a pita to get to seal at the flare fittings, as well has hard to flare in the first place. Stainless braided hoses are a different thing entirely and easy to work with.

 

+1 thank you!

 

I ment replacing the hose with a braided hose.

Tom,

 

If you ever do need to replace a line and want to use stainless steel I've gotten pretty good and bending as I have good tools and I have a professional brake line flaring tool (worth every penny of the $250 I paid for it), not one of those crummy $25 kits from craftsman. Just so you know.

I would consider this for my 3door. I already have all the brake lines removed to use as a template. once i can source some ss 3/16 tubing and metric fasteners, then i will be in business. Otherwise, my project is ready to go with that once i hae the parts.

 

If you can source the tubing yourself, you can bid a price to me what you would do it for(and use mine as a template to do everyone else)

I would consider this for my 3door. I already have all the brake lines removed to use as a template. once i can source some ss 3/16 tubing and metric fasteners, then i will be in business. Otherwise, my project is ready to go with that once i hae the parts.

 

If you can source the tubing yourself, you can bid a price to me what you would do it for(and use mine as a template to do everyone else)

 

 

That sounds like an idea!

Well, Tom, if Jon has the tool, we should look for where to find ss line

Well, Tom, if Jon has the tool, we should look for where to find ss line

 

 

Yes! I dunno WTF I am looking for though. What Diameter line do we need 3/16? and where do we get new fittings? I've never messed with brake lines on Subarus, so do we just use universal fittings or what?

 

I'm sure you have better knowledge on this then I.

Here is some 3/16" stainless tubing. But I don't understand how it can get soft enough to come in a coil..? Its flexible?

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Steel-Brake-Line-3-16-Inch,7423.html

I'm not sure what size the lines and fittings are on Japanese cars. I know that for every American car I have ever owned the brake line size is 3/16". Stainless is harder to work with in terms of both bending and flaring, but not too bad with a little practice. Perhaps when it starts to warm up in the spring we can have a head gasket repair & brake line bending day at my house.

I'm not sure what size the lines and fittings are on Japanese cars. I know that for every American car I have ever owned the brake line size is 3/16". Stainless is harder to work with in terms of both bending and flaring, but not too bad with a little practice. Perhaps when it starts to warm up in the spring we can have a head gasket repair & brake line bending day at my house.

 

Yes! I dunno WTF I am looking for though. What Diameter line do we need 3/16? and where do we get new fittings? I've never messed with brake lines on Subarus, so do we just use universal fittings or what?

 

I'm sure you have better knowledge on this then I.

 

You are gonna need a 37 degree flaring tool(not standard automotive 45 degree) and special fittings.

 

Standard sized tubing and metric threaded AN fitting adapters.(do they even exist?)

 

Why bother with stainless?

Regular brake line is a piece of cake.

Y)

 

Why bother with stainless?

Regular brake line is a piece of cake.

 

RUST, and the idea of keeping the car forever. That and rust. Oh yeah, the rust-belt of the midwest. Roadsalts. and, of course, RUST!

RUST, and the idea of keeping the car forever. That and rust. Oh yeah, the rust-belt of the midwest. Roadsalts. and, of course, RUST!

 

7point62fmj posted this link back in October, http://www.fedhillusa.com/

 

Stuff sounds interesting....

One would have to buy their flaring tool, but what the heck.

 

I've replaced a few miles of brake line over the years, and if this stuff is that easy to work with, it'd be worth the extra cost involved.

You are gonna need a 37 degree flaring tool(not standard automotive 45 degree) and special fittings.

 

Standard sized tubing and metric threaded AN fitting adapters.(do they even exist?)

 

Why bother with stainless?

Regular brake line is a piece of cake.

 

Never hear of a 37 degree flare, but I have the tools to do both 45 degree and DIN/bubble flares of all the common standard and metric sizes.

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/an_fitting_flare.html

 

http://pipeandhose.com/?q=node/16

 

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleStronger.html

Edited January 25, 201115 yr by naru

Tom,

 

I have seen that stuff on "Trucks" or some garage tv show. Or at least something 100% the same as that. Might be worth looking into.

 

Thanks!

I'm very interested in this '$250' brake flaring tool. A guy i work with has a lot of experience with this, done a couple cars and trucks using the '$30 parts store special' I'm very much a 'high quality tools' type of person, so i'd like to use the good one if possible, but if the cheap one is just slightly more cumbersome, but still with good results i'd stick to that i guess.

 

do they do metric? What fittings are standard and what fittings are metric? are the threads that go into the actual brake components themselvs metric? taper seal or some kind of o-ring?

 

i found the 'classic tube' catalog, they seem like they really have their act together, about 20-25 bucks for each crimped SS line. thats probably cheaper than the parts store special rubber ones, eh? plus nice drawings and layout of all the fittings.

 

I have access to a hydraulic hose crimping machine, but its hard to find the stainless fittings. i could get zinc plated and do rubber line fairly easily, but then again the corrosion issue comes up.

 

having worked with both 'stainless braided' and regular hydraulic line, i'd probably choose the hydraulic for durability myself, but the fittings are going to corrode like crazy no matter what you do without stainless.

 

the other option would be to run all the hard lines JIC with a conventional 37 deg single flare (i have good tools for that) and crimp an AN on the wheel end of the hose, or even adapt out the brake system fittings by using an adapter fitting or drilling and tapping for a standard hydraulic part.

 

just some ideas... i'd like to get the whole system re-done for around $100, lets get creative!

Ok so i've done a bit of digging around.. that fedhill looks like the place to go, awesome!

 

So i guess the big difference is the 37 deg single flare vs. 45 deg double flare vs. japanese 'bubble' flare.

 

the last time i replaced brake lines in the brat, i went to the auto parts store bin and bought a 4' chunk of 'metric' brake line. I used a 3/16 crimp connector to mate it to the existing line. I would assume that was a 'bubble flare' line that i bought.

 

So the solution would be

A) buy all the right stuff starting with jap standard, rent the tool from FEDHILL for a week, and replace all the lines and only the lines with new jap 'bubble flare' lines.

 

convert all the fittings to US style double flare and rent the fedhill tool and re-do the lines and fittings with commercially available adapters.

 

c) convert all the fittings to US-style single flare (37 deg) and use the cheapo tool- drilling out and replacing with -2 (1/8") pipe holes where necessary in the brake components.

 

As it is right now, given that i have access to everything needed to do 37 deg single flare, option C is looking like my best bet. I was planning on refinishing all my calipers, drums, etc etc so while i'm at it might as well replace seals, sand blast them, and do a proper job of it, drilling out the fittings to -2 NPT or using the replacement/adapter fittings.

 

Plus all my fittings are already rusted to hell in place, so i might as well re-do them.