I have a 96 legacy. It's the "L" model. Automatic.

 

I haven't had an trouble with the car until recently. It has 80k miles.

It died yesterday morning out of nowhere. A month or so ago the CEL said there was a problem with the coolant temp sensor. I figured not a huge deal and it went away soon after.

Now it's throwing the cam position sensor only. It will crank but will not fire. There is fuel pressure but I can't get it to spark. I replaced the cam sensor with no change. Coil pack seems fine. Resistance was the same as a new one. Not 100% on the coil though. Plugs and wires are fine. Timing belt is there and tight. Haven't checked timing though.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

Clear the codes.See if cam code comes back.

Did that. Keeps coming back and still won't start

Unplug the sensor.

Connect an AC meter to it and crank engine.Should show voltage variation.

Could there still be a problem if I replaced the sensor and cleared the code? All the wires look fine. I'm double checking now

If you have a known good sensor, then you will have to check the signal at the ECU. Did you wash the engine lately? Water in the plugs could also cause this problem.

 

The cam sensor is easy to change, and many should be in the yard. I'd grab a few and try them.

i havent washed the motor. i changed the coolant temp sensor. I cleaned the cam posit. sensor connector with alcohol and let it dry. it seems that im not getting spark so i changed the coil pack. still nothing. it wasnt raining. it was just cold. around 30 degrees.

cleaning with alcohol doesn't do the connection any favors.

 

check for resistance between the plug to the cam sensor and the ecu, both in and out wires.

Check timing belt?

 

If it sounds similar to this when cranking you have no compression due to broken belt. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIgMFX8DEs8

 

It could also jump a few teeth and still have some compression but not enough for proper fire. You can check the timing at TDC by looking at the alignment of the arrows on the cam sprockets.

Check timing belt?

 

+1

The timing belt is still there. Seems tight. I haven't checked the timing yet.

If the timing was off I figure it would still fire and just run bad. I'm not getting spark. The plug going to the coil has power when it turns over but no spark coming out of the coil.

I read that the cam position sensor can stop it from firing but I'm unsure if the no spark and cam position code are related.

It just seems strange to die out of the blue and not start for 2 days

Also...sounds pretty normal cranking. Nothing like that video

Check to see if the cams actually change position after cranking. Or have a friend crank the engine while you watch for them to spin.

If some of the teeth on the belt stripped off you may get compression in two cylinders, but not in the other two. The belt will still be in tact and under tension but will not turn when the crank turns.

 

Have you checked all fuses?

Checked for 12V at the coil? The yellow wire at the coil is power. That comes from fuse 16 of the interior fuse panel.

 

edit: No 12V at igniter, it gets power direct from the ECU.

Edited March 12, 201115 yr by Fairtax4me

it may be the igniter, check to see if you have power going to the coil. i haven't done it so i won;'t guess, but if you have no power to the coil you'll be dead.

I took the 2 side covers off the timing belt. It doesn't turn when cranked over. Sounds like the timing belt?

I took the 2 side covers off the timing belt. It doesn't turn when cranked over. Sounds like the timing belt?

Yup, you'll need to examine the crank sprocket to see what's going on, but it's probably going to involve a new timing belt.

 

Might as well replace the water pump and idler pulleys while you're in there too.

Check the crank position sensor on top of the oil pump housing too. That one got me last time I ripped it all apart. Had me stumped for 8hr until I realized it wasn't plugged in all the way.

Figured out the problem. The idler pulley bearing blew apart on the passenger side and the timing belt got chewed up in the middle.it makes sense why it was throwing the cam sensor code now. Looked fine on both sides haha. I'll be replacing the waterpump as well.

 

Thanks for all the help

Just do the whole shebang and replace all of the idlers and the front oil seals while you're in there.

There are a few vendors on Ebay that offer complete kits, belt, idlers, WP for around ~$140. I think one has all seals included with the set as well, but I've heard mixed reviews on the after market seals.

Just do the whole shebang and replace all of the idlers and the front oil seals while you're in there.

There are a few vendors on Ebay that offer complete kits, belt, idlers, WP for around ~$140. I think one has all seals included with the set as well, but I've heard mixed reviews on the after market seals.

 

If anybody ever needs, I sell timing belt kits with OEM parts and factory belt. Email for pricing at shawn@retroroo.com with year/model/engine size. Most parts in stock ready to go.