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Well ... I may have finally done it ...


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Okay. Before I start ... I admit - I'm a dork. I shouldn'tadunnit:

 

So - that's out of the way. But I did. I just need to know what do do from here:

 

'90 Loyale EA82 non-turbo.

 

Fusible link. The one towards the firewall (the black one) popped while I was heading down the expressway about a week ago. I didn't have another one, so I (gulp) 'made one' out of some romex to get me home. OK OK! I KNOW!! But that's not the end of the story.

 

I got home :banana:

 

No one could get them but the Dealer. 5 Day lead time. So I paid my $13 and went on my way ... tick tock.

 

Drove around ALL WEEK, no problem. All around town. 30-mile trip on expressway. And back. No problem.

 

Couple days ago, it happened: Was on Expressway again - and POW! No power, no nothing ... fusible lin.. uh oh ... wait!

 

Pop the hood, check out the situation - I had stuffed the ends of my romex (14 ga) into the sleeves of the clips of each end of the fried black fusible link. Anyway, something shorted, and heated up the wire enough to melt the black cover a bit AND cream the lower wire that feeds the fusible link body. Ouch. (I KNOW!!! I KNOW!!!).

 

So what did I do? If COURSE! I bypass the bottom of the body of the fusible link! (I mean ... what wold YOU do!?). I snipped the wire (white), stripped it down, and wire-nutted it to some more romex, which I then fed BACK into the good side of the fusible link (the black one), and connected to it to what was left. Wire nut, e-tape, baddaboom.

 

Listen ... I HAD TO GET HOME!!!

 

And .. I made it home.

 

Called the dealer. "Nope not in yet - maybe tomorrow" ... I had ONE MORE TRIP to make!

 

Driving around down was no problem. I think this might have to to with RPM, but I'll shut up with my theories. Anyway, I was driving to the airport on the expressway last night, and POW!! Out for the count. No problem - pop the hood, check it out - yep: same thing. Running out of what's left of that side of the fusible link, so (gulp) ... direct connection. Right from the Romex to the terminal. solid connection - good contact. Put the key in, fired right up! Wooo!

 

Wrong. 2 minutes down the road, POW! But this time, smoke. This time, small little special fire, made especially for me. Romex on fire. Glowing. 650 amps glowing.

 

I did NOT make it home ...

 

I KNOW!! I KNOW!! I shouldn't have done it! I KNOW they're there for a reason! I needed to get home. Yes, I walked. I've paid my punishment - I'll probably walk back, too.

 

Wring Schematic - Where does the wire go from the black fusible link? it's wrapped with a number of other wires and heads towards the alternator. It's a pretty beefy wire, relative to most braided copper under the hood.

 

And the most important question - USUAL SUSPECTS for the cause? Even tho I probably created a few more suspects, I know (yeah yeah, rub it in).

 

Assuming it's still sitting there abandoned along the side of the expressway, what should I bring?

 

RIP?

 

(go ahead ... let me have it!) I did the same thing when I was a kid on the lake (hmm .. ice hasn't broken yet - looks pretty thin tho ... maybe just a couple more steps ...)

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The only time I have seen the black one snap is when I put the battery cables on backwards. It snapped right away, without starting the car (weird old battery couldn't tell + from -). However, I obtained another proper black link from the dealer and stuffed it in there before going anywhere. Doubtful that helps you any.

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Helps a little - I am pretty sure it's the highest rated link of them all - meaning, the most juice can flow thru the black one before it blows ... which is probably BAD for me, hehe!

 

Yep. Goes directly to the alt. I'd be surprised if it survived... assuming that wasn't the cause of your problem in the first place.

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Your story about your special little fire was a treat! I love it when I hear about someone screwing up worse than what I could have ever accomplished! Just giving you a bad time... wow, talking about a cat with 9 lives!

 

I saw a great idea from last years subaru show where a member used a new style fuse with jumper wires from the fuse to where the fusible link plugged in. The new fuse was kind of dangling outside of the fuse box and they drilled two holes for the wire to go into the box but at least the line was fuse protected... anywho... I enjoyed your post and hope you get it all working again.

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Your story about your special little fire was a treat! I love it when I hear about someone screwing up worse than what I could have ever accomplished! Just giving you a bad time... wow, talking about a cat with 9 lives!

 

I saw a great idea from last years subaru show where a member used a new style fuse with jumper wires from the fuse to where the fusible link plugged in. The new fuse was kind of dangling outside of the fuse box and they drilled two holes for the wire to go into the box but at least the line was fuse protected... anywho... I enjoyed your post and hope you get it all working again.

 

Like this?

0608091112.jpg

 

And it sounds like you have the power wire is grounding itself somewhere.

Or you're trying to run too much current through your wiring harness.

Those are the only things I've known to blow that fuse, minus a VR that goes

wonky and majorly overcharges the battery.

And that's only on an upgraded alt.

 

Twitch

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Next time the dealer tells you 5 days for something get on USMB and ask in the Subaru parts wanted section.

 

Most of the time Priority mail would beat that by 3 days. I have at least 30 of them (used).

 

Hehe ... I just might need a few more before I'm done poppin' 'em! :eek:

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Yep. Goes directly to the alt. I'd be surprised if it survived... assuming that wasn't the cause of your problem in the first place.

 

Ok, so I'm about to have the Alternator tested.

 

I took the shielding off the white guy, and there's an inline spit. In actuality - the alternator portion (also white) is spliced take-off from the MAIN white line which disappears into the front clip and APPEARS to veer left (Dvr Sd) .... anyone know where THAT goes?

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Like this?

0608091112.jpg

 

And it sounds like you have the power wire is grounding itself somewhere.

Or you're trying to run too much current through your wiring harness.

Those are the only things I've known to blow that fuse, minus a VR that goes

wonky and majorly overcharges the battery.

And that's only on an upgraded alt.

 

Twitch

 

I cringe at the sight and can hear GD's chastizement (and education) pound me in the head when I did something like that with my Brat.

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I cringe at the sight and can hear GD's chastizement (and education) pound me in the head when I did something like that with my Brat.

 

Hahah - yeah. I think I've been punished enough already - you should SEE the spaghetti I've made in here! All the Kings Horses better show up ... or Humpty might not aspirate again, haha.

 

Man ... :-\

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Johnson;1005125']Why? It's a fuse isn't it? Not everyone has $15 to blow on an outdated fusible link.

 

That whole setup cost me $5 or so including the 15ft of 10 guage wire, box of

clips and fuse.

And I was able to use the rest of the wire on other things, so over all, in just

materials, it cost me maybe $3.

 

Its not unsafe, as the box is right up next to the hood, I don't submerge my car, so nothing needs excessive waterproofing, and I can replace a fuse in a minute or less if I blow it.

It works well for me and I don't think GD would do too much chastising for

it...

 

Twitch

 

PS: if you want more waterproofing, just tape up the holes in the box, and

tada, no water gets in.

Hell, silicone it if you're that worried.

 

PPS: Its a 60a fuse, so it can handle stock alt loads, but if anything starts

to overcharge it cuts it off.

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yeah lesson is never replace a fuse with wiring or a penny, or .22shell.

 

At least Twitch mechanism is still a fuse. Fuses are meant to blow when something shorts or goes wacko in overvoltage current draw.

When you take the fuse element out, nothing there to blow so you get fire, melted wire, possibly a burned up car on the side of the road.

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The problem with replacing a fusable link with a fuse is that the link will support surges in current over a short time which are acceptable in some circuits, the fuse is designed to pop immediately once the max is reached, therefore, a fuse of too heavy of rating for the circuit must be used.

Fusable link wire sections are available at most auto parts stores, I buy a piece and a couple crimp connectors ( I prefer the heat shrinkable weatherproof type) and good to go. Forget waiting for overpriced dealer crap.

Another hint, I have needed a heavy link for a car ( can't remember which) and only been able to get the lighter 16 ga. at the time. I took 2 lengths of 16, stripped the ends, twisted together, and crimped in 1 12 ga connector. worked fine.

As to the cause of your meltdown, hard to say from here but I would first suspect the alternator is overcharging, particularly when hot. I always test alternators, regulators, etc. on the car, I have found that the tests they run on the bench at the parts stores are very unreliable.

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Sound like an over charging alt. could be causing the problem.

Dash meter, in my 92 loyal run about 13 volts, and with meter at the battery about 14 volts, if its pushing 16 volts that is a problem.

Not sure about subaru reg. but most dump to ground, so a by ground o reg. can cause problem.

The other choice would be a place in the wire that is worn and when going down the road, short out, I do a shake test, shake the hell out it.

 

And as for fuseable link, just use a wire 2 gauges smaller then the factory wire, and will blow first.:banana::banana::banana:

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slow blow fuse? that would be next best.. Shawn has the right idea, if a dealer is taking too long for a part, get on here, someone can USPS priority ship to you in a day or 2 at most to get you the part..IF we still had passenger pidgeons, a fuse could get to you the same day. :)

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