General chaos Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 that is a brake pad / rotor squealer. it goes on the outer brake pad. i didnt know they came off like that. what it does is to squeal against the roto when the brake pads get to worn out. and saves the rotor from damage from bad worn out brake pads. it is a warning system so you know the brake pads are worn out and need attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 that is a brake pad / rotor squealer. it goes on the outer brake pad. i didnt know they came off like that. what it does is to squeal against the roto when the brake pads get to worn out. and saves the rotor from damage from bad worn out brake pads. it is a warning system so you know the brake pads are worn out and need attention. Yeah, most pads now days have little nubs molded with the pad, so when it gets low enough it starts to squeal. Kara, if thats what that thing is, its not needed. You would need to put on a good 35,000 before the pads need to be serviced again (Depending how hard you drive) Cheers and thanks for swinging by, was a surprise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 Thanks- Yeah, I do not need such an idiot device. I am still a little concerned about surface rust not wearing off that rotor w/new caliper after driving,but the car doesn't seem to pull. ??????? Gonna throw some pads on the rear, and see if I can get rid of the remaining brake noises... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Anyone care to comment on the use of stock/reman calipers w/ aftermarket brackets???? (See post #98 this thread) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Anyone care to comment on the use of stock/reman calipers w/ aftermarket brackets???? (See post #98 this thread) I for one don't think its a big deal, as everything "Should" be made to a Manufactures spec. I also don't know if that caliper bracket is aftermarket or not, it could be the original from 2001 and only the caliper was replaced. Maybe we need to re-bleed your brakes, But like my Dad said, if that side wasn't grabbing as hard, it would pull (To the left in your case) so I dunno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Prior owner (over)paid for it, I have reciept (Napa parts) We both saw caliper (not stock) bought at same time as bracket!!! Also if made to "spec" why the plain slide, versus rubber tip slide???? Edited June 7, 2011 by KaraK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Prior owner (over)paid for it, I have reciept (Napa parts) We both saw caliper (not stock) bought at same time as bracket!!!Also if made to "spec" why the plain slide, versus rubber tip slide???? Good point, but if you notice, the rubber tipped slide only fits in the top hole (And it was the same on both sides) the rubber tip slide must be a genuine part where as the other one was not. Edited June 7, 2011 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Good point, but if you notice, the rubber tipped slide only fits in the top hole (And it would was the same on both sides) the rubber tip slide must be a genuine part where as the other one was not. I accept rubber tipped slide as original... It worked on driver side (original eqip.)(we put it back there) but not on replaced pass. side That was my point... re: aftermarket bracket!!!! Rubber tip slide did not operate properly on the pass. side (aftermarket bracket) that's why we reused the old plain one!!!! Whereas, rubber tip slide has been occuping the same space on the driver side since 2001!!!!! W/ no problem. Just worried that surface rust doesn't wear off as it should,(as if not gripping) after driving on newly turned rotor w/ new caliper...But. No pulling noticed.... Would bleeding have anything to do with it??? P.S. Both sides front pads were worn uneven (like a wedge) only pass. side was hung up(replaced 15,000 mi ago).... Non-Subaru people did the fixin, up till now. If that matters.... Edited June 7, 2011 by KaraK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 you dont have anything to lose by bleeding the system again (other than a little brake fluid) just make sure it is done in the proper order - and i would do all four corners, just to be sure. i believe the correct order is RR, LF, LR, RF - Subaru uses a diagonal system (1 front & opposite rear) -vs- the old front/rear system, and generally speaking you start with the one farthest from the master cylinder. If I am incorrect - please - somebody correct me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 You know, I have heard of this bleeding order a lot on here and I supposed that would have been correct, it seems in a Hanyes book, they say to bleed the system starting with RR, RL, FR, FL, I wonder if the Diagnal bleeding was only for the older Subarus. After all, GM owned part of Subaru in 2001 :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 You know, I have heard of this bleeding order a lot on here and I supposed that would have been correct, it seems in a Hanyes book, they say to bleed the system starting with RR, RL, FR, FL, I wonder if the Diagnal bleeding was only for the older Subarus. After all, GM owned part of Subaru in 2001 :-p well, yeah, there is that - this car is a little too new for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 ok, just did a little bit of searching via google and found this: The order is closest wheel to ABS unit first. From the 2000+ FSM: Brake fluid replacement sequence; (A) Front right → ( Rear left → © Front left → (D) Rear right so there ya go - i learned something new today - the day has not been a total loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I wonder if THIS is the underlaying issue then, As the Hanyes book is wrong. Kara this is from the Factory Service Manual so it would be correct. How did you find that so quick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 google is my friend typed in "2001 Subaru brake bleeding order".... the post i quoted was like the second or third thing down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 ok, just did a little bit of searching via google and found this: so there ya go - i learned something new today - the day has not been a total loss. Holy crap!!! Thanks Jo! Maybe this is the issue!!! I think I'm gonna do a little notetaking in that Haynes book, so everyone else who checks it out of the library doesn't screw up their cars!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Now, remember way back when, when we first did the brakes? I told you I thought the bleeding style they list was wrong! I was right! Also, some torque specs in these books are wrong for future refrence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 yeah - uh, Haynes/Chiltons books are ok for basic stuff, but i dont really trust them for the more specific things...like torque specs and brake bleed sequence. Kara - if you plan on keeping that car for a while, i would highly recommend trying to get your hands on a FSM for it (Factory Service Manual) check ebay regularly - they do show up there from time to time, or possibly craigslist....do NOT get fooled into buying a cd type manual - they are no better than haynes or chiltons you dont necessarily need everything if it comes in multiple volumes like my 90 set does - chassis, engine, and electrical will cover most everything the home mechanic needs - maybe the tranny one if you want to get into that stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 yeah - uh, Haynes/Chiltons books are ok for basic stuff, but i dont really trust them for the more specific things...like torque specs and brake bleed sequence. Kara - if you plan on keeping that car for a while, i would highly recommend trying to get your hands on a FSM for it (Factory Service Manual) check ebay regularly - they do show up there from time to time, or possibly craigslist....do NOT get fooled into buying a cd type manual - they are no better than haynes or chiltons you dont necessarily need everything if it comes in multiple volumes like my 90 set does - chassis, engine, and electrical will cover most everything the home mechanic needs - maybe the tranny one if you want to get into that stuff. Yeah, I know....There's a "book guy" that comes to the Fond Du Lac swap meet every year... I think my friend Gary has his #, I want to try to trade in my FSM's from that GMC Safari for some Subaru ones. I Don't know how to buy or sell on computer yet, still learning this thing. Anyone know someone who might want 2 volumes of 1994 Astro/Safari FSM's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 Tom and I bled the brakes today, per Heartless instructions. So far the only difference I notice, is that they chirp really loudly now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Tom and I bled the brakes today, per Heartless instructions. So far the only difference I notice, is that they chirp really loudly now... hmmm??? weird... did the little clips that hold the pads get lubricated? both sides (or does this one even have the little thin metal clips?) I usually lube up all contact points with either the brake lube, or antisieze (except for the pad face/rotors of course) and never hear any "chirping" until the "squealer" comes into play & it's time to change pads again - so very puzzled with yours... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Yeah I put bearing grease on everything as I would my cars. There was no noise until I go done driving it (So you know what that means Lol!) But really, I put the brakes on hard twice to see what happens, if the ABS kicks in or not and just get a good feel for them. Stops really nice now! As I PM'd Kara, I think the noise is a chunk of rust stuck somewhere or the backing plates that are pads moved when I was braking (As they only push on with bent tabs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 The lip of the bacing plate might just be bent a little and is rubbing the rotor. This happened to me when i did the brakes on susans car. i bent it out with a screwdriver and that cured it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 ok, yeah, that would make perfect sense - bent backing plate rubbing. (duh! ) yup, pull the wheel one more time and check for clearance on the backing plate. any spot that looks close, bend it back a little - make sure when you bend one spot, it doesnt create another elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 (edited) I should have mentioned the chirp goes away when I touch the brake pedal (even lightly) This would indicate, it's not the backing plate right?? Why the heck would this chirp (loud like a large flock of birds) start all of the sudden, halfway home from Waukesha. How could we have bent the backing plate?? We didn't even pull the wheels off yesterday! Didn't move anything except for the bleeder!!! :-\ Edited June 11, 2011 by KaraK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 Think I got rid of my brake chirp for now, the brand new inner pad on LF was chunking out on the top(outer) edge. Don't know why... but I broke off the chunks, sprayed the rotor, re-greased clips. Seems better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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