before I installed a divorced transfer case I never broke a rear axle on my EA81.Never in 4 years of offroading ea81s.Now with the transfer case and 31's I snap the rear axles like a twig every time I go play.With in the time span of about about 2 weeks I have Exploded a rear inner DOJ,and broke two separate inner DOJ's.Ive run out out of spare axles parts so now I need to make a run to pull and save to find some more spare parts.while I am up there I might as well upgrade the axles if I can.

 

Ive heard of EA81 shafts with EA82 DOJ's at both ends.So that might be a possible fix.Early legacies have the same style rear diff any one tried putting the legacy DOJ on an EA81 axle shaft?

 

I know questions like these are the kind of question monstaru likes to flame me about, but pull and save is 2 hours and some change away.So I can't really just go and return a part that wont work.especially now that im driving my moms suburban around because the towing company I bought my car from is jerking me around when it comes to the title...

 

before I used to worry about my front axles,both of my fronts have torn boots and click when I turn yet they have easily outlasted the rears...

 

when I set the car up I lost a couple inches of ground clearance to make sure all axles were flat to try avoiding this problem.

Edited May 23, 201114 yr by Uberoo

power is power.reduction is reduction.torque is torque.get a clue.its a waste of time with reduction to use the same old axles............get something that is not cast and it lasts longer.the first runs were cast cups.the later runs were machined.the answer is already out there.earn it.

cheers, b

power is power.reduction is reduction.torque is torque.get a clue.its a waste of time with reduction to use the same old axles............get something that is not cast and it lasts longer.the first runs were cast cups.the later runs were machined.the answer is already out there.earn it.

cheers, b

 

 

thank you I didn't know the difference in construction between earlier and later.I just thought the latter stuff was stronger because it was a little bigger.

thank you I didn't know the difference in construction between earlier and later.I just thought the latter stuff was stronger because it was a little bigger.

 

the cups are a bit longer as well, so give you the potential for a little more travel... not much. mostly it moves the contact points inside the cup more towards the stronger end of the cup....

 

you could weld a steel ring around the edge of the cups too, but then you'll just break the stubs....

breaking just the stubs might be better, because I can fit 10-20 of them in my tool box without taking up too much room...

 

But then if the stubs break flush with the diff and the end of the axle it would be a pain to fish the pieces out to install new stubs..

Yep, stronger axles will just break the stubs. Broken stubs can be a real pain to change out because they twist before they break, therefore getting wedged in real good. We had to disassemble the whole diff and reassemble it on the side of the Rubicon when that happened once.

 

This is not a new topic, it is one that I might flame you for though.

 

Don't be so heavy on the gas peddle, know a little more about momentum and how to keep it. In all the years I played out in the dirt with Subarus and welded diffs, I only broke one rear axle. Never did break a front one.

all of the times Ive broken axles have been at low throttle.Im not one to floor the gas pedal at any chance I get..

 

 

the axle I exploded the rear diff was on a rock and the left rear tire was tucked into the fender when the left axle exploded.

 

The lastest axle broke when I tried to crawl up a steep hill made out of compacted sand.was going up it slowly and then SNAP.broke the bell and shattered the retainer...

 

all the other axle breaks have cracked the outer bell.

 

 

all the breaks seems to happen when the rear suspension is compressed.if my rear axles are sitting flat at normal ride height I wonder if my axles have too much angle on them when compressed?

Edited May 24, 201114 yr by Uberoo

it sounds like your issue isn't with your axles but the fact that when your tires tuck in they are hitting the body and keeping the wheel from turning, ramping up the snapping torque real fast.

I tried to use a jack to compress the suspension and check for clearance but that just lifted up the car without compressing the suspension.So I used a come along to pull the wheel into the fender.I pulled the wheel until it was about 4" from my fender. at that point I thought the cables would break on the come along.it didn't rub on anything.This car before I put the 31's on cleared 235's with only the torsion bar cranked up with lots of fender bashing.Now it has an 8" lift at all the cross members so it should be fine.

 

 

only thing I regret is that the come along put a big dent in the car,but it was already beat up anyway.

while we are on the subject of axles how strong would EA82 front axles be in a non steering application?I played around with a spare front EA82 axle and it could provide 10" of wheel travel before it totally binds up.So probally 8" on a car.Its biggest restriction was the inner DOJ.The inner DOJ wouldn't flex worth a crap.

 

Ea81 rear axles probally can tolerate maybe 5-6" of vertical travel, because they are short and have DOJ's at both ends.

 

is there a CV that can tolerate high angles AND plunge?

DUDE, THIS HAS ALL BEEN COVERED LITLERALLY DOZENS OF TIMES BEFORE.

 

YES, THERE ARE AXLES THAT CAN DO ANYTHING YOU WANT THEM TO AND MORE. GETTING AN AXLE THAT WILL DO THOSE THINGS WILL COST ALOT OF MONEY.....

 

SERIOUSLY, PULL YOUR HEAD OUT AND SEARCH ON YOUR OWN FOR ONCE. IT's ALL BEEN COVERED BEFORE!!:mad::mad:

and on that note, I'm closing this, don't think we can be of much more help to you.