djmtsu Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 My poor, poor 1998 Outback is having problems again. I just put a new engine in it (and I mean new) a couple months ago. Chassis has 216000 on it, motor has maybe 16000 on it. Everything has been running perfect since the swap (except for a ripped CV boot), however the other day it started acting up. Going down the highway at 65mph, it suddenly started losing power, and when pulled off the highway, it died. Wouldn't restart. Waited about 30 minutes, and it fired up, but it is chugging and feels like it is missing when you rev it (no power). The CEL is NOT on, and hasn't been since the engine was put it. It fires right up every time, but runs like it is a v-twin. Since I work for an OEM parts distributor, I brought some parts home I tried last night with a new coil pack. No change. I am about to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump/strainer and see if that is the issue. The tank was filled about 40 miles before it started acting up. Bad gas maybe? Also, when the original 2.5 died, we swapped in a junkyard 2.2 engine (lasted a few thousand miles). Did the lack of an EGR on the 2.2 potentially clog the cat? In about an hour from now, I am putting in the new pump and strainer, and fuel filter. I already checked all 4 plugs, and the wires are new OEM as well. I checked all the vacuum lines, none are cracked (all new) and all are connected. I am a little mad at myself for forgetting my OBD Scanner at home. But if need be, I can drive it, or throw it on the trailer and take it to the local parts house to be scanned if this doesn't fix it. Any other thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 have you checked alternator voltage output? have you checked the ground and power wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coach9 Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Have U checked ur exaust flow,sounds a lot like a back pressure problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Grounds are good, power connections are good. About to pull the alternator and take it to get tested. The exhaust is pulsing, like its missing. All the plugs are firing good, trust me, my hair is standing up Already put the pump/strainer and fuel filter in. NO CHANGE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 check you cam timing marks? 3 bolts for each cover. turn it over by hand, line up the timing marks and check all 4 cams. or if it idles fine but loses power at speed, maybe the fuel pump. i hear they can be intermittent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Tested the alternator, it is perfect. Couldn't get the cat bolts off the y-pipe, so we dropped the y pipe from the heads. Still chugs. The only thing I can think of is maybe a stuck injector? Also, the temp is normal (slightly below middle of gauge) but the fans have not come on, and its about 95 degrees today with a ************load of humidity. They do come on if I turn on the AC though. Maybe the coolant sensor in the crossover pipe is causing all this?? Still no codes after the battery was reset and have had it running about 15 minutes or more. The exhaust smells fine, no smoke, no funny smells, nothing. I am getting frustrated. EVERYTHING on this engine is new. If it was a timing issue, wouldn't it throw a code for a cam/crank sensor? Also, it was running perfect, at a constant speed when it suddenly started acting up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Ok, so it looks like the engine might have jumped time. I don't see how that is possible with all the pulleys, tensioners, but whatever. I also noticed the intake cam pulley on the passenger side head has cracks around the hub, that doesn't look good!! I spun the engine by hand a few times, and it looks like the timing marks on the 1-3 cams are about 2 teeth off. The engine doesn't make any noise, other than missing really bad. Hopefully there isn't any internal damage. I guess I'll source a new cam sprocket and get a new belt, WP, tensioner and pulleys. Not what I wanted to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Check your tensioner while you're in there. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Yeah, it sucks all around in general. The engine was pulled from a dealer demo. It only had a few thousand miles on it. Apparently it was in a wreck, hence the cracked intake cam hub. I am willing to bet that could be the reason for the belt skipping. When it got hot, it probably flexed and the belt jumped a little. If I had foresight, I would have brought everything available in our catalog with me, then I wouldn't have to go back to Chattanooga to fix it (again) I just hate doing timing belts on these DOHC EJ25's. I am always worried about the cams slipping. I will replace the belt, tensioner, WP and all the pulleys while I am in there. Fun. At least the HG is fine I have the car torn down with everything accessible so it should only be an hour to fix it. If this doesn't do it, I'm setting it on fire and collecting the insurance. So far this is my investment: -vehicle -head gaskets and timing belt job -tensioner was defective and destroyed the engine -EJ22 junkyard engine -timing belt, WP, tensioners, all new gaskets top to bottom. Blew head gasket....it was a junkyard engine.....lasted 11000 miles -EJ25 complete engine -coil pack -ignition wires -spark plugs -fuel pump -fuel filter -new belts and hoses -new vacuum hoses -new cam, crank, coolant sensors -all filters, oil, coolant (twice for all of it) And now add to that, another timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, and a camshaft pulley. Still, even though that list looks big and $$$, I have quite the hook up, and have less than $2000 total investment so far (including the car). I don't even use it personally anymore (well, rarely) instead, my father in law has been borrowing it for work. It gets twice the mileage as his Tundra. If it continues to have problems after this is fixed, I might just part it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Just my opinion, if the motor really has 16 k on it, I really think changing any undamaged components is a little over kill. Normally I would say if it's apart change it, but with 16 k I would only replace the damaged parts, as long as you figured out the reason It jumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coach9 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Looks like ur on the right trail!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Now I need to find a new right hand (passenger side) intake cam pulley. Hopefully the old engine is still at the junkyard and I can get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 UPDATE: Got a new right side intake cam pulley, new belt and tensioner. Installed it all, and she runs like a brand new car again! I am actually VERY surprised there was no damage to the valves. The exhaust cam was off several teeth, and that broken intake cam was WAYYY off. I was scared to death that when I fired it up I would hear a death knock or damage. Nope. Everything is perfect. Now the question is, what would cause that damage?? There is also a hairline crack all around the raised hex section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 glad you got it working. happy motoring!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I'm pretty sure with these motors you don't have piston to valve contact when the belt goes, it's intake and exhaust valves colliding. So I guess it can be pretty off, but not have the valves hit each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 (edited) Never mind .... Edited July 19, 2011 by nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I'm pretty sure with these motors you don't have piston to valve contact when the belt goes, it's intake and exhaust valves colliding. So I guess it can be pretty off, but not have the valves hit each other. You can have it off a few xogs max, mre then that is doom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 You can have it off a few xogs max, mre then that is doom. I'll try to describe how off it was. With the Crank in its timing position: -left intake cam perfect -left exhaust cam perfect -right intake cam was at 10 o'clock position -right intake cam was at maybe 8 o'clock position (left and right are according to the driver position) Pretty bad, but no contact. The car has been running perfect. No issues. I even got around to installing the wiper motor I got from Dave. I also noticed a ripped passenger side CV inner boot. I'll get around to that this fall maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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