I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2L that had the timing belt go. Ended up coming completely off track, threw an Idler pulley in the timing belt cover and burnt out the water pump. I ended up replacing the Water pump, Thermostat, Timing belt, idler pulley, timing belt cover and all gaskets involved. When I tried to start it up it seems like it won't "catch" to start. It turns over and over and then sounds like it's almost going to start, but all that happens is a loud click, the entire engine shakes/jumps and the starts just turning over again. I've taken it apart again (thinking that maybe the Cam had moved a little when I put the belt on last time) but before I put it back together I was wondering if there's anyway to check for bent valves. I'm a do-it-yourselfer that doesn't have an engine lift or mechanics tool set (got the basics, torque wrench, socket set, screwdrivers, C clamp, chain wrench, etc). Is there anyway I can figure out what's going on without trying to take the entire head off?? Any info/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sgt C

US Army

Ft Belvoir VA

compression test it. borrow one or buy one, they're not that expensive.

 

what is the build date of your car?

 

this will be very interesting to see how this turns out.

Be sure you are using the proper marks to align the belt and pulleys. Dashes, not arrows.

I had the same restart problem on mine after I did the same. Pulleys, belt, water pump, cam and crank seals... I also pulled the oil pump and locktited the screws on the backer plate. That's a good idea.. and easy. I was using the wrong mark on the crank gear. As mentioned, it's not the arrow... it's the hash mark on the plate behind the crank gear. Once I realigned, it started right up. Thank god it's a non-interference motor.

So I ended up taking the Timing Belt back off and trying again. Using a tip from one of the posts on this board (removing the Idler sprocket to place the belt on instead of the #2 Idler pulley like Haynes said) I was able to get the belt back on without any problems. Turned the key and it started right up. Ran for about 10-15 minutes without problems, but when I got in to take it for a trip around the block I noticed that the Temp was pinned on H. I drained all the coolant and re-filled it (thinking there may be a big air pocket before the heating core), but it's still running hot. When I originally changed the water pump I put a new Thermostat in (OEM) so I'm fairly confident that's not the problem. Any suggestions for my newest issue????

 

Thanks in advance.

You probably have air trapped in the cooling system. You can park the car on a steep uphill slope to help the bubbles come up to the radiator, or you can jack up the front end as high as you can to achieve the same result. Turn the heater on full heat to get the water circulating thru the heater core.

 

You can search the forums for threads on other ways of bleeding the air out of the system...

 

Matt

Burping is the term suby people use to refer to getting the air out of the system, using that in your search will probably yield the result you're looking for.

 

But as stated, lift the front end

Fill the engine through the top rad hose! Don't just fill the radiator, actually fill the engine through the top hose.

start it up with heat on full, and the rad cap off. As soon as the thermostat opens you'll probably see the level drop quite a bit, add coolant and cap it.

Sometimes squeezing the top rad hose will "pump" the air out a bit, do it with the cap off. You'll get a big bubble and coolant level drop.

 

Using this method I've never had an issue with overheating. But like I said, search using burping the system and you should find more threads on it.

So I ended up taking the Timing Belt back off and trying again. Using a tip from one of the posts on this board (removing the Idler sprocket to place the belt on instead of the #2 Idler pulley like Haynes said) I was able to get the belt back on without any problems. Turned the key and it started right up. Ran for about 10-15 minutes without problems, but when I got in to take it for a trip around the block I noticed that the Temp was pinned on H. I drained all the coolant and re-filled it (thinking there may be a big air pocket before the heating core), but it's still running hot. When I originally changed the water pump I put a new Thermostat in (OEM) so I'm fairly confident that's not the problem. Any suggestions for my newest issue????

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

I read an article on the web that noted "OEM" has lost any meaning, and has become an ambiguous term. Genuine Subaru part has a clear meaning. Did you use a Genuine Subaru thermostat? Numerous posts have proved that only a Genuine Subaru thermostat should be used.

ALternative method, dont know whay everyone makes more work for themselves and more mess.

 

Level ground. Drain the radiatorif starting with a full system.

 

start the car and slowly fill the radiator. Wait for the surge that happens when the Tstat opens. After that surge (may get a little messy)top off the radiator (car still running) put the cap on (get a new one just because it is old). Fill the overflow to hot. Drive the car around the block and allow it to cool. Once cool repeat once (it may not even need it) and that will keep an airbuble out of the system.

If it is not a factory ( Subaru ) thermostat, it can be installed backwards. That would cause the overheat you described. I've seen it before.

But as stated, lift the front end

Fill the engine through the top rad hose! Don't just fill the radiator, actually fill the engine through the top hose.

X2

The heat doesn't need to be on, coolant moves through the heater core at all times when the engine is running.

Rev the engine to about 1500 rpm and hold it there for a while to get coolant moving through the system and push any air out to the radiator.