OK I want to run 4.44 gears in a open rear stub shaft diff , I have a complete unit its the newer style with female holes, I want to run it with the older stub shafts how can i do this? I have a bunch of diffs some old stlye and some new what parts will make it work thanks ?

easiest way, is swap the carrier into the 4.444 housing. Just like the well-documented LSD swap.

Better option is to use the male axle DOJ's - they are not hollow like the bolt-in stubs. Much stronger.

 

GD

Better option is to use the male axle DOJ's - they are not hollow like the bolt-in stubs. Much stronger.

 

GD

 

have you used those in a lifted rig? I've always been curious if they would stay in the diff.

easiest way, is swap the carrier into the 4.444 housing. Just like the well-documented LSD swap.

 

I can do that

 

Better option is to use the male axle DOJ's - they are not hollow like the bolt-in stubs. Much stronger.

 

GD

 

might try this. this diff is in the front of a t-cases rig, so if the axle slines match I would prefer this

 

have you used those in a lifted rig? I've always been curious if they would stay in the diff.

 

should with my lift its only 1 inch over stock flex and the shaft still has play

Yeah - that's what I'm considering with my t-cased hatch. R180 diffs with male DOJ's for added strength. Just have to find the right combo of joint parts to make them go together.

 

GD

Get a 3.90 V-LSD from a '91 Lego SS. This rear diff has the stubs you desire. Might even still be able to order them new.

Get a 3.90 V-LSD from a '91 Lego SS. This rear diff has the stubs you desire. Might even still be able to order them new.

 

Only one of the stubs from the early VLSD is the correct unit. The other will not work as it has an extra splined section on it.

 

That part is about $100 each from the dealer and they don't have any in the US which means it's probably not availible at all.

 

GD

They should still be available:

 

27017AA001 SPINDLE ASSEMBLY-REAR DIFFERENTIAL,RIGHT

27017AA010 SPINDLE ASSEMBLY-REAR DIFFERENTIAL,LEFT

 

In Europe the set price is 110 euro excl. tax.

Yeah my dealer said she could order them but had no gaurantee that the order would ever be filled. There are none in the US at this time. Here the price is about $104. Also only the "left" one is compatible. The "right" one is the one I mentioned that has the extra extened spline on the end. So you would need two lefts to make it work.....

 

GD

lego rear axles are side specific, the rear diff is offset slightly, I'm assuming this is why the left and right are not mirrored. If your using lego axles then this shouldn't be a problem, but it sounds like Scott needs options to work with EA series axles/outters. One should be able to offset the diff mounts to overcome the width issues. Personally I like the idea of using the slip fit EJ inners, they have been very durable for me. I can measure the stubbs on my extra vlsd when time allows

so Im ready to tackle this , so basically take the carrier from a 3.9 stub style diff and swap it into the 4.44 diff? with no changes to anything or special parts?

lego rear axles are side specific, the rear diff is offset slightly, I'm assuming this is why the left and right are not mirrored. If your using lego axles then this shouldn't be a problem, but it sounds like Scott needs options to work with EA series axles/outters. One should be able to offset the diff mounts to overcome the width issues. Personally I like the idea of using the slip fit EJ inners, they have been very durable for me. I can measure the stubbs on my extra vlsd when time allows

 

Okay, to clarify, you guys are talking about the Early VLSD Turbolegacy diffs as the ones with non symetrical stubs. Non turbo Legos used old style bolt on stubs.

 

Later models, with open diffs that used the male stubbed CV are symetrical. 95-04+.

 

Only those early VLSDs in the Turbo Legacies and SVXs use those funky asymetrcal stubs.

 

 

Scott, try mating 95-99 Legacy or Outback rear inner cups onto some EA shafts. that should work.

 

Also, just FYI, the hollow bolt in stubs will slip into the diff and work. You might even be able to grind a notch for a circlip.

so Im ready to tackle this , so basically take the carrier from a 3.9 stub style diff and swap it into the 4.44 diff? with no changes to anything or special parts?

 

Yep thats really all you need, I did this with a stub type lsd out of a 3.7 diff into a 4.11 and I did the opposite of this and made a stub diff into a female diff, both work fine.

I have made a 4.44 into an old school LSD.works fine.no special parts.Just the puzzle of the chunk going in.Cheers, B