c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I have a 84 Brat, love the thing so much! But I'm having an issue with my axles. The front right axle started clicking so I decided to go ahead and replace it because I eventually want to restore this vehicle as much as I possibly can. I got a reman axle from Checker, this was the first attempt and after about 50 miles the boot tore up and axle started clicking... so I got another one, now on the second axle 2000 miles driven from UT to GA to move down here. The beast made it just fine, but now the axle is clicking and I notice when in first or second gear u can feel a power loss because the axle does either catch properly or something else. For example when I'm driving and I let off the gas in 1st or 2nd gear I can hear it grind very hard and then continue to roll. I'm not really sure if I want to replace the axle with checkers reman axle again because of this... I also noticed upon installation of these reman axles that the new axle is very very hard to get into the hub compared to the axle it had before(assuming stock). I did the job myself by taking the strut/hub/axle out together and then using a 3 pronged puller to remove the axle from hub and then a rubber mallet with the axle in a vice grip to pound it back into the hub. Getting the old axle out was easy and easy to put back in but the reman axle seems as if its possible 1-2mm larger in diameter or something because its very hard to get into the hub. Another question I have is about the rear axles because I have noticed a clicking sound coming from the back passenger side axle,but I can't quite figure out if its the axle or something else. Sounds like a metallic click. What do you use to replace these axles because they look different from the front axles? This is my first Subaru so I'm a noob, but I love the thing so much I can't get rid of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 The beast made it just fine, but now the axle is clicking and I notice when in first or second gear u can feel a power loss because the axle does either catch properly or something else. For example when I'm driving and I let off the gas in 1st or 2nd gear I can hear it grind very hard and then continue to roll. The grinding sounds like you might have bad wheel bearings. I would also suggest getting new Empi axles from somewhere other than Checkers and replace the conical and spring washers. Make sure you torque the axle nut to spec. and check the splines in your hub. If the splines in your hub are going out that could also cause a grinding sound with a sensation of power loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 The grinding sounds like you might have bad wheel bearings. I would also suggest getting new Empi axles from somewhere other than Checkers and replace the conical and spring washers. Make sure you torque the axle nut to spec. and check the splines in your hub. If the splines in your hub are going out that could also cause a grinding sound with a sensation of power loss. Empi axles? Any idea where? Conical and spring washers of/from? Sorry I know how to read a manual and replace parts but I'm a novice at car repair. Splines in the hub? I thought that the axle just connects to the trans splines, locked in place with a pin, and the hub has a outer/inner bearing. I'm now debating just finding another gl, or wagon seeing how many miles and taking its hub and axle assembly until I have money to start restoring it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 I found the EMPI Front Axle Assembly on a few sites, but what about the rear axles? Why would I need to replace, conical and spring washers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 ... I also noticed upon installation of these reman axles that the new axle is very very hard to get into the hub compared to the axle it had before(assuming stock). I did the job myself by taking the strut/hub/axle out together and then using a 3 pronged puller to remove the axle from hub and then a rubber mallet with the axle in a vice grip to pound it back into the hub. Getting the old axle out was easy and easy to put back in but the reman axle seems as if its possible 1-2mm larger in diameter or something because its very hard to get into the hub. Empi axles? Any idea where? Conical and spring washers of/from? Sorry I know how to read a manual and replace parts but I'm a novice at car repair. Splines in the hub? I thought that the axle just connects to the trans splines, locked in place with a pin, and the hub has a outer/inner bearing. I'm now debating just finding another gl, or wagon seeing how many miles and taking its hub and axle assembly until I have money to start restoring it... Ok so obviously you when you replaced the first axle there should have been two washers at the end of the axle spindle along with the axle spindle nut. Do you remember those? If they were not there, do not drive your vehicle until you have replaced those washers along with the hub because if you drove it 2000+ miles without them then the hub is probably toast. The Empi's can be had at some independent parts stores, check VW specialty shops or just order them online. The run about $60. Getting a used hub and knuckle at the JY is not a bad idea. Make sure you bring some leverage. The hub is the outer part with the wheel lugs in it. The knuckle has the bearings in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Why would I need to replace, conical and spring washers?They play a substantial role in holding the wheel and hub to the axle. Subaru recommends replacing them everytime the axle is replaced. Replacement everytime may be a bit of overkill (or might not), but chances are that yours have either never been replaced or haven't been replaced in a long time. They are extremely important parts to have in good working order...meaning not worn down. Once you have more posts you can do some searches and see how much has been said about it. Member GeneralDisorder has explained this many times in detail in the past, so when you have the ability to search you can look for postings by him on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 I have the haynes manual, do u mean the washer and centering piece that comes off after the castle nut is removed? I just put them back in when I put the new axle on. I will go ahead and replace them then when I go to replace the axle again. About the rear though. Earlier today after driving the brat for about 2 hours I came back home and as I was rolling in N I heard a metallic clicking sound from the rear right, increased as rolling speed increasing, but later I drove it again and it was gone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 The "centering peice" as you call it is less of a centering device and more of a mechanical shaft locking collar. It has a cut in it that allows it to clamp down on the axle shaft - this clamping force is created by the cone shape of the washer as it is driven into the matching cone surface of the hub. Typically what I have seen happen is that the washer and sometimes the hub also have metal worn off of their respective cone shaped mating surfaces - making it impossible for the locking collar to clamp down on the axle shaft. Thus the need for replacement. I have also seen washers with so much damage to the OD that they will not slide smoothely into the hub. And one's where the slit in the side of the washer has been deformed due to chisels and screwdrivers being used on them durring removal. It IS IMPERITIVE that the cone washer and the hub be in excelent condition or the assembly will come loose again and again till the splines inside the hub are ground away. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 The rear clicking sound you hear could very well be the universal joints in the drive shaft. Check that first before you go buying rear axles. I think the front has already been covered for you by the above posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Thanks for the help, and yeah u guys are right, it is the universal joint that is clicking... How long until it gets really bad you think? I'm a bit strapped for cash, but it won't be that big of a deal to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Just one more thing, about the two pieces that come off after the castle nut, where can I get these. I'm sure subaru would have them, but any idea where else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 If you're working with the Haynes manual you're not getting the best source of information. Look on-line for a used copy of How to Keep your Subaru Alive (Volume 2 is the later edition, but Volume 1 covers your Brat). Should cost $5 to $20 from Amazon or a used book store. I know there's a pdf file floating around somewhere. Drop me a PM if you can't find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Just one more thing, about the two pieces that come off after the castle nut, where can I get these. I'm sure subaru would have them, but any idea where else?Try the local junkyards. I've never had any problem with any of the used ones I've pulled off with the axles I've found at the local pull a part yard. For new you'd need to go to a dealer. I buy my new parts from Jason in Parts at 1-866-528-5282 (just tell him his internet 'site is too difficult to order with and he'll get you whatever you need at the internet discount). All he needs from you is a VIN#, address and credit card #. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Unfortunately there is no aftermarket source for the cone washer's. But as Ed noted the junk yard is your friend - they used those same washers from the 70's to '89 on every car they made, and from 90 through 94 on Loyale's. So there should be plenty of them around to have a good supply on hand. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hard to say on the universal joints but not using 4-whl drive right now would be a good idea. I got mine off ebay for pretty cheap. On the front axles are you sure you torque them down good enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 I don't have a torque wrench, but I tightened the castle nut as hard as I possibly could, using all my body weight with the hub locked in place by a crowbar. Guess I'll need to do this job over again, but I gotta find some junk yards... not much down here in columbus GA though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Even less in eastern NC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 yea the junkyards are completely worthless around here. So I ordered the washers through the dealer, friggin 12$ a piece but I have no other choice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 (edited) yea the junkyards are completely worthless around here. So I ordered the washers through the dealer, friggin 12$ a piece but I have no other choice... Check out http://rockauto.com . Really good prices. Got my EMPI axles for my '85 Brat thru them. Ball joints and tie rod ends were 1/3 the price of the local parts store. Even with shipping it still was a lotta savings! Edited August 8, 2011 by jonas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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