krystolo Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 First, please forgive me as I am not mechanically savvy. i do love my Ru, though! My 1997 Outback has had several repairs over the past couple of years and I am considering getting a newer car. Due to my job, I can't afford to be stranded. Recent problems: 2010- overheated (cracked radiator cap) causing headgaskets to need to be replaced. This had to be done twice because the first guy didn't use Subaru parts. 2011- Freon hose, starter cable and starter. It has 191,000 miles on it, I am the original owner, and have been good with maintenance. The only other problems I can remember are a temperature sensor going out at around 100k miles and redoing the brakes in 2008. The timing belt has been replaced twice when they had it open looking for an oil leak. (The fluid leak was finally found and repaired (after 5 years) by my new mechanic. I'm not exactly sure what the cause was.) Q1- What kind of annual repair costs can I expect over the next few years? My goal is to get to 250k miles. Q2- Would doing an "overhaul" (changing all the hoses, valves, belts and doing a good inspection) help prevent any problems? Q3- How much would such an overhaul cost? Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 300,000 miles on Blu Most recent replacement parts this year - PS rack - Alt. - Outer tie rods. I have replaced the tires but they do not count as they are a wear item. I also need a timing belt this year. I really dont think anything aside from Maint, and wear items dont count. My PS rack didnt start leaking till 280,000 miles. You may need strauts right now. What I think you are going to hit are the struts, possibly ball joints, amybe a tranny mount (easy thing to do). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 wow nipper I did not know you had that many miles on blu It still looks in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 wow nipper I did not know you had that many miles on blu It still looks in good condition. Well i lied, 295,000 miles i just rounded up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Well i lied, 295,000 miles i just rounded up heh just a few more days and I will be at 230,000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Suspension parts are going to be your biggest issues in the next 15-20k miles probably. Ball joints, tie rod ends, might need struts, axle boots (you had one already, others will soon follow). None of which are really big ticket items, but having a shop replace them can be a little $$$. Belts, hoses, that sort of thing are all good preventative maintenance. Funny that you mention valves. The DOHC engines have a tendency to burn valves with higher mileage. If it has never been done, it would be wise to have the valve lash clearance adjusted. It's not a difficult job per-se, but very time consuming and can run anywhere from $700 - $1000 at a shop. It's a chunk of change up front, but the alternative is ending up with a burned valve which will cause the cylinder to go dead. It would have no compression on that cylinder, which would mean very poor running (lots of shaking), and a BIG loss of power. Then the head has to be removed and the valve replaced at a cost of about $1500- 2000 depending on who does the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krystolo Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Thank you so much for all of the advice! Do you think the valve lash clearance would have been adjusted when I had to have the head gaskets completely redone after the overheating incident? I'll have my mechanic check the struts/CV boots, ball joints and tie rods (Those are all related to the axle and wheels, right?) and PS (?power steering) as well as checking/changing belts and hoses. I also forgot that I had the alternator replaced at about 150,000 miles. So maybe that will be good for a while. I don't think it was a Subaru part though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Looks like you will make 250,000 mi as i it is. take into account the suspension for 300,000 miles. the motor should be fine as well as the timing belt. dont wory about valve lash unless you are doing a head gasket. maybe have the trans serviced if it has not been already. if it hasnt happened yet, a wheel bearing may begin to have noise. all of this would be routine maintenance. these cars routinely go 200,000+ miles before anything major acts up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I *got* my 96 Outback at 2095K miles, and I'm over 315K now. your car should be fine to get to 250K as it is, based on the info you have given. Just keep oil in it and the like. Tnhe previous owner on my car had neglected the car fairly badly, and I had a bit of work to on on her when I got her, but that is coming along nicely. I just did the timing belt and seals recently, and the car is happy as a clam now. (how do we know clams are really happy?) personally, I would not settle for 250K miles. . . Go for 300 at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 These replies so far have been good BUT they don't answer the posters original question as to what could "strand" him. To answer this question, please imagine yourself living 50 miles north of Fairbanks. Tie rods, struts, or axle boots wouldn't strand you there. 1. I would first suggest alternator failure, but you already replaced that. 2. The starter can fail, although in a couple of my 80 & 90's subarus, it gave advanced warning so I was never really stranded. At worst, it required a 15-20 tries to get it to engaged and sometimes an hour wait. [side note: the rebuilt alternators are probably as good as the original subaru's but the rebuilt starters are definitely not]. 3. Even a wheel bearing probably wouldn't strand you. I once rode 50 miles at 20 miles/hr with the subaru front bearing screaming. Even then I had advanced warning which I didn't understand/ignored. I can't think of anything else that will definitely strand you, other then broken belts but you seem to have taken care of that. I suppose the radiator hoses or the radiator could spring a big leak? Maybe someone else has had a catastrophic failure that will chime in. However, I do warn my kids [who drive the 90's subarus] that they have to be alert. And I'm within driving distance so I can rescue them which has happened twice [alternator and starter]. PS. How have you managed not to replace your gas fill pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 1. I would first suggest alternator failure, but you already replaced that. 2. The starter can fail, although in a couple of my 80 & 90's subarus, it gave advanced warning so I was never really stranded. At worst, it required a 15-20 tries to get it to engaged and sometimes an hour wait. [side note: the rebuilt alternators are probably as good as the original subaru's but the rebuilt starters are definitely not]. 3. Even a wheel bearing probably wouldn't strand you. I once rode 50 miles at 20 miles/hr with the subaru front bearing screaming. Even then I had advanced warning which I didn't understand/ignored. Even with a failed alternator you can still drive quite a ways as long as you keeps lights, etc off. The starters usually die because contacts, an $8 fix. If you're really worried about it, just replace them... Wheel bearings give warning for thousands of miles before they become un-drivable. And in the last 1000 miles they make a terrible noise. Then you can't drive over about 10mph... That was scary... I bought my 98 legacy at 230k miles, over 240 now without any real issues. Got it with a bad 2.5 DOHC... It drives really nice, I should get another 50k+ no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 These replies so far have been good BUT they don't answer the posters original question as to what could "strand" him. To answer this question, please imagine yourself living 50 miles north of Fairbanks. Tie rods, struts, or axle boots wouldn't strand you there. cam or crank angle sensors resulting in a no-start. or intermittent no-starts. If thes have not been replaced, it is fairly cheap to do so for safe measure, and anyone with a 10mm can change one themself. This is the only thing i can think of besides a dead battery. otherwise a flat tire is most likely to make you pull over than anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 otherwise a flat tire is most likely to make you pull over than anything else. I forgot about this one... make sure it's not flat. Last time I had to use mine, it was completely flat. I drove on it anyway and ruined it, rather ruin the spare than a nice rim. But it made me fell dumb I'd never checked that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 These replies so far have been good BUT they don't answer the posters original question as to what could "strand" him. To answer this question, please imagine yourself living 50 miles north of Fairbanks. Tie rods, struts, or axle boots wouldn't strand you there. Yeah, I think it might be helpful to know how the car is driven. 191,000 miles over 14 years is ~13,643 miles/year or about 37 miles/day. Depending on where you live, this could be just an average city commute. If any problem comes up, and starts needing attention, you can have it taken care of at your local trusted service shop within a few days time before the mileage really racks up. On the other hand, you could imagine a car being used in a traveling salesman type of scenario... where the car makes 2,000+ mile loops across the country every few months. In this situation, even a problem that gives you some advance warning could appear AND fail before you have had a chance to stop and fix it. And finding a repair shop in an unfamiliar place with a loaded car is always a nightmare. :-\ We also don't know if "stranding" means "I was a half hour late for a meeting which cost my client millions", or if stranding means like mikec03 says - broken down in the middle of nowhere. Regardless, I would think that krystolo has a huge leg up here by being the original owner, and knowing that the car has been properly maintained. Any time you get a used car, even if it is a newer car, you take a bit of a risk if you don't know its history. For the peace of mind, for the cost of a newer car, I would think that you could do a LOT of preventative maintenance on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 These replies so far have been good BUT they don't answer the posters original question as to what could "strand" him. "Q1- What kind of annual repair costs can I expect over the next few years? My goal is to get to 250k miles. Q2- Would doing an "overhaul" (changing all the hoses, valves, belts and doing a good inspection) help prevent any problems? Q3- How much would such an overhaul cost?" I don't see the word strand in there anywhere. Blu has nearly 300,000 miles on him and the original fill neck in the tank. Jsut because something pops up here a lot does not mean all the cars will have the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I don't see the word strand in there anywhere. It was earlier in the post: Due to my job, I can't afford to be stranded. ...and I would think that question #2: Q2- Would doing an "overhaul" (changing all the hoses, valves, belts and doing a good inspection) help prevent any problems? is the one which applies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 The two things that (well three) that will go without any real warning that will strand you on a subaru: Battery Timing Belt Alt Everything else the car will still move and will give plenty of warnings. If it make s you feel better at 290K Blu has only been on the hook once, and that was an Alt on a long road trip at 191,000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john40iowa Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 The two things that (well three) that will go without any real warning that will strand you on a subaru: Battery Timing Belt Alt Everything else the car will still move and will give plenty of warnings. If it make s you feel better at 290K Blu has only been on the hook once, and that was an Alt on a long road trip at 191,000. Actually four things ; at least on the Forester: There is a (auto) transmission hose (partially rubber) very near the steering mechanism, near firewall. If for any reason this touches it, it wears a hole. The only time my car has left me stranded was this due to failure and its massive fluid leak. Thankfully it was rather cheap fix, minus the flat bed towing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krystolo Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Thank you again for the many help replies. I have to admit that I shouldn't have been stranded by the starter. It had been acting up for several months, but every time I would make an appointment at the mechanic, it would start right up. Go figure! My driving pattern is typical commuting, never far from a tow truck and never far from my mechanic. I wouldn't have to walk miles in the snow (uphill both ways) to get help. LOL How do I know if my gas fill pipe is broken? I'm glad to hear that I should get at least another few years out of him. I love that car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 How do you know if your gas fill pipe is leaking? It corrodes out where the plastic guard presses up against it about 18" below the fill point. You will smell the gas if you stick your head behind the rear wheel. Both of my 90's subaru had the fill pipe corroded out at about 13-14 old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 when mine rusted it happened at the J bend in the pipe plus that part was filled to the top was mud and crud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruplatt Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) Thank you so much for all of the advice! Do you think the valve lash clearance would have been adjusted when I had to have the head gaskets completely redone after the overheating incident? I'll have my mechanic check the struts/CV boots, ball joints and tie rods (Those are all related to the axle and wheels, right?) and PS (?power steering) as well as checking/changing belts and hoses. I also forgot that I had the alternator replaced at about 150,000 miles. So maybe that will be good for a while. I don't think it was a Subaru part though... Someone can check the valve clearance for you. Do you need to do it? As the valve seats wear in the valves may stop closing. Unless they are shortened and moved away from the cam. Shocks and bushings, maybe whole struts. Try new upper strut bearings too. Sterring rack ? what else is there? Maybe throw in a fresh rad an hoses. I think that if you like the car 2-3000 $ isn't a lot to bring it to mint. Even Are you being ripped off? New dampers would be a treat, a couple of bushings new tie rods might be good . Edited November 2, 2011 by subaruplatt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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