I need to replace my radiator in my 98 OBW. I read through the search archives, and could only find someone, who said that two bolts hold the radiator in. Also said that it is not necessary to remove the dual fans to remove the radiator. If all this is correct, then all that is left, is to remove the rad hoses, and ATF lines. Is this correct, or is there anything else I should know? Thanks!

Hm, I haven't worked on a 2.5L dohc from that era, but all my soobs, the radiator fans are bolted to the radiator. So you can pull the fans and radiator as a unit, but they still have to come off and get mounted to the new one.

 

Usually it is just the two bolts that fasten the two radiator mounts at the top. The radiator has little pegs with rubber booties that sit into some metal underneath.

 

One of the harder parts can be getting the ATF cooler lines off. Those hoses seem to really like to get stuck on there good.

Hm, I haven't worked on a 2.5L dohc from that era, but all my soobs, the radiator fans are bolted to the radiator. So you can pull the fans and radiator as a unit, but they still have to come off and get mounted to the new one.

 

Usually it is just the two bolts that fasten the two radiator mounts at the top. The radiator has little pegs with rubber booties that sit into some metal underneath.

 

One of the harder parts can be getting the ATF cooler lines off. Those hoses seem to really like to get stuck on there good.

 

Thanks..........good advise........Rooster2

Also need to disconnect the fan electric connectors to remove the Rad/Fans as a unit. ATF hoses were welded on! I just cut them and bought new straight hose with new clamps. Worked ok.

 

Bolts that mount the fans can be rusted. Spray some PB Blaster on there first.

If you cut the ATF hoses, you could just go hose back to the pipes near the starter. I've had the section of ATF pipe that goes underneath/near the battery rust out on a couple of my soobs and dump a lot of precious ATF onto the ground, so I try to pay attention to that area. I believe I used 3/8" i.d. hose for that, which seemed to be a little bit bigger than the likely metric size that is stock, but trying to fit 5/16" id hose onto the radiator nipples was very difficult.

Thanks to all for the good advise. Rooster2

most annoying part to me is just catching the coolant dumping out.

 

otherwise it's really easy like already covered. the ATF and radiator clamps are often rusted to the point that reusing is not an option.

One of the harder parts can be getting the ATF cooler lines off. Those hoses seem to really like to get stuck on there good.

 

 

Would it do any good to spray the ATF cooler lines with PB Blaster the day before trying to remove them from the radiator??

One of the harder parts can be getting the ATF cooler lines off. Those hoses seem to really like to get stuck on there good.

 

 

i have done a couple of these. i cut them off unless they relatively new. actually i always try to remove them but i almost always fail and just cut.

 

to replace you need 5/8" trans fluid hose, ~18 inches, 8 inches for the top hose and ~10 inches for the lower hose.

 

i read somewhere that the hose costs $2 per foot, so the replacement cost is $3. i re-use the clamps unless they get ruined in removal or look suspect.

i have done a couple of these. i cut them off unless they relatively new. actually i always try to remove them but i almost always fail and just cut.

 

to replace you need 5/8" trans fluid hose, ~18 inches, 8 inches for the top hose and ~10 inches for the lower hose.

 

i read somewhere that the hose costs $2 per foot, so the replacement cost is $3. i re-use the clamps unless they get ruined in removal or look suspect.

 

Thanks for the hose info. I appreciate it!

i have done a couple of these. i cut them off unless they relatively new. actually i always try to remove them but i almost always fail and just cut.

 

to replace you need 5/8" trans fluid hose, ~18 inches, 8 inches for the top hose and ~10 inches for the lower hose.

 

i read somewhere that the hose costs $2 per foot, so the replacement cost is $3. i re-use the clamps unless they get ruined in removal or look suspect.

 

For what it is worth, my mechanic showed me how to use a very long straight tip screw drive as a pry bar to push the hose off the rad fitting. He says this approach always works.

For what it is worth, my mechanic showed me how to use a very long straight tip screw drive as a pry bar to push the hose off the rad fitting. He says this approach always works.

 

glad to hear it. i hate wasting good parts, but i hate wasting time fighting a $2 part even more.

 

thanks.

 

of course, sometimes the hose need replacing anyway.

For what it is worth, my mechanic showed me how to use a very long straight tip screw drive as a pry bar to push the hose off the rad fitting. He says this approach always works.

 

So? What's the trick?