here are the pics, who knows what I did today based on the pics?

Fun.

replaced the speedometer gears, drive gear and driven gear.

 

were they damaged or were you just getting them to match your wheels and speedo.?

This car only the small gear was damaged, but they need to be replaced in matched sets.

 

(this is the 3rd Legacy I have had to do this on, usually the big gear is cracked due to heat, etc)

 

 

Getting that darn C clip back on is not very easy when you are doing this when it is in the car.

 

Speedo works and so does cruise now, and no CEL code for vss, also car knows when to shift now too. Before, the speedo worked like lets say 75 percent of the time or less. And according to the owner, it just started not working in the past 5k.

 

I chose Mobil1 Synthetic 75w-90 gear oil, which is much better than the ATF, which I drained out of the front diff.

 

I figure synthetic in the auto diff is better, cause it can take the heat better, and is much thinner in extreme cold, the thick oil in cold can strip the gears too.

 

Anyway, the gears i put back in it are same part number to a 94 turbo wagon, which are what tires will be going on this anyhow, going from 14" to 15"

 

This time around I just wrote the part numbers for the 2 gears and the o-ring seal on the page in my FSM so i dont have to dig thru boxes of old parts bags looking for numbers on the parts......

Did this job on:

94TW

93SS sedan

and now this car, all jobs of this repair have been done when the trans and engine still in the car.

 

enjoy. and to those who say cannot be done with trans in the car, lol, this is the 3rd one i have done. No it is not easy, especially instaliing the snap ring, but i love a challenge. I think this job takes about 5 hours hard at it, you know, gotta drop the exhaust out of the way, remove lower arm bolts to slip axle out of the way, check bearing retainer pre-tension, remove the cap, remove the bearing, remove the axle stub, remove the speedo big gear, pull off the snap ring, slide out the small gear, install new small gear, install c-clip, install the axle stub, install new big gear put on the bearing, put new o-ring on the side retainer cap, install side reatainer, check preload vs the start step, install exhaust header, install axle, install control arm, fill gear oil, etc, etc et, etc......

 

I could cut down the time considerably, if i had the actual tool that was designed to unthread the side bearing retainer cap.....

Edited October 25, 201114 yr by bheinen74

Don't you love finding that

 

I chose Mobil1 Synthetic 75w-90 gear oil, which is much better than the ATF, which I drained out of the front diff.

wanted to add, this is the job one cannot afford to pay a shop to do, it would be cheaper to swap in a different trans than paying a shop to do this job....

 

And most people cannot figure this one out. lots to factor, and you have to know how to check preload on the bearing etc..and have tools, which i don't even have the correct bearing removal tool, or the side retainer tool.

 

But for me, it is parts about 36 bucks, oil at 11.99 a qt, x 2, and my own time

 

If i had the right tools, i could have this done in 3-4 hours.

it sounds like a good alternative would be to install a used trans and then repair the gears once the trans is out. then you can sell the removed trans to off set the cost of the new one.

 

more or less trouble.?

 

how long would the job take if the trans was out of the car?

What do you mean check the bearing retainer ore-tension?

I thought as long as you threaded it in the same amount it threaded out, it would end up being the same as before.

What do you mean check the bearing retainer ore-tension?

I thought as long as you threaded it in the same amount it threaded out, it would end up being the same as before.

 

I heard the same????

says pre tension, pre load on the bearing. you check it by first marking where the retainer is, i use a sharp chisel and chisel the mark, and also a white paint pen. the paint can rub off, so then you have the indention mark. then, snug up the retainer until it is firmly resiting. Count the cogs from where it was to where it is when snug.

 

 

upon re assembly, you do the same. take it to the mark, then check to make sure it gets firm the same or about same number of cogs.

 

On mine, i snugged up mine 2 notches due to the wear etc. Ideally you would snug both sides of the diff the same number and i tried to snug my driver side the 2 notches, but that retainer isnt budging, with the lack of correct tool for it. .It is the wear also that loosens these and caused the gear to wear more over the age as well as heat. So snugging a little more, keeps the speedo gears from moving around so much.

Edited October 26, 201114 yr by bheinen74

So when you put it back together you did have it two notches past where it was before?

Thanks for clarifying the process, I've never seen it explained like that before!

Is the ATF entering the front diff or was it filled back up with ATF after whatever service had been done previously?

 

I just recently did a trans that was swapping fluids. Wasn't as difficult as I was expecting:D

Is the ATF entering the front diff or was it filled back up with ATF after whatever service had been done previously?

 

I just recently did a trans that was swapping fluids. Wasn't as difficult as I was expecting:D

 

someone previously put ATF in there, i checked and my gear oil in there is still perfect gear oil.......at least I know what fluid goes where...