Guys, I put my car back together thought I covered everythng with pictures and labelling things but I have a connector that I dont know where it goes and also a part I'm not too sure where it goes here are the pictures & I hope you guys can help..it's a 2000 Impreza EJ22

 

Connector:

 

Mysterious PArt:

the triangle plug in the first pic is the o2 sensor, i think.

the o2 sensor is located on the exhaust after the y-pipe meets the front cat. look for the wire.

 

 

i have no idea what the other pics show.

That plug is indeed for the front O2 Sensor (There are two of them on that car)

 

The miscellaneous part looks like some type of bushing, not sure for what though.

 

All in all, what did you take apart? Just pulled the motor?

 

-Tom

Yeah I bought the car (impreza brighton stationwagon) about a year ago not knowing the life left on the timing assy. Apparently an idler lost it's ball bearings and smoked the timing belt, smashed the valves you know the story. As you guys know these cars grow on you so it's hard to send them off to the junk yard. So I jacked the motor up about1 1/2 inches enough to access head bolts. Rebuilt the heads, put on Gates timing assy with water pump. Yeah that bushing thing it's got a needle sticking out of it if you look close.

Is that the brake rod, goes into the booster?

That "bushing thing" looks like the release lever end of a clutch cable. Possibly the hill holder cable, but I'm goin' with clutch cable.

That "bushing thing" looks like the release lever end of a clutch cable. Possibly the hill holder cable, but I'm goin' with clutch cable.

 

I agree. You can see the two jam nuts on the threads.

Yes! That is where I've seen that before.

 

I agree. You can see the two jam nuts on the threads.

 

Sabaroo, hope the valve job went well.

1. oxygen sensor

 

2. the broken off working end of the clutch cable

Sounds like you may also need a clutch cable. Make sure and get one from the dealer as the parts store ones are garbage.

Holy crap do I fell like an idiot! I did the clutch cable about 4 months ago and threw the old end in my hatch back and thats where I put the rest opf my parts..............doh. Thanks Guys you guys are the best with out you guys I'm sure this Subie wouldnt see the the road again.

I hate to get off topic here., as this poor guy is trying to get back on the road. I just can't help but notice how many parts on these cars need to be oem! Gaskets, thermostat, etc, etc. The aftermarket for subaru is basically junk. Am I outta line saying that?

I hate to get off topic here., as this poor guy is trying to get back on the road. I just can't help but notice how many parts on these cars need to be oem! Gaskets, thermostat, etc, etc. The aftermarket for subaru is basically junk. Am I outta line saying that?

 

Fel-Pro gasket sets usually always have Genuine gaskets in them. Genuine Thermostat is always a good idea, they are build more solid and are the proper Temp Degree.

 

The rest of the parts you can run aftermarket and you'll be fine. Ebay timing kit for example.

 

Also I try to run Genuine Oil Filters, if not, then a WIX.

I hate to get off topic here., as this poor guy is trying to get back on the road. I just can't help but notice how many parts on these cars need to be oem! Gaskets, thermostat, etc, etc. The aftermarket for subaru is basically junk. Am I outta line saying that?

 

Please Read this:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259&highlight=felpro

Bingo. My Felpro valve cover gaskets on my wagon said "made in Japan" on them.

I used Felpro, funny I am a designer by profession and I did alot of work for Gates and I would say nowadays 90% of their stuff is manufactured in China as far as tensioners and idlers.

I just put a gates timing belt kit in my 99 obw. The pulleys were all Japanese. The tensioners and water pump were Mexican, and the belt itself was made in Singapore. It's like the u.n.

Okay the connector in the picture went to a block on top of the engine under the intake (had to see it with a mirror). Now I started it up and it runs extremely rough and backfires and sometimes revs hi and races.

Edited November 12, 201114 yr by Sabaroo

Is there a cel? Are you sure you got the timing marks correct. Sounds like the timing may be off a tooth.

I thought I was on with the marks, how far can you be off until you damage the valves? I guess I am saying what if I reset it to 1 tooth the wrong way.

Edited November 12, 201114 yr by Sabaroo

I'm just going to move the cam sprockets 1 tooth.

was hoping someone would talk U out of altering timing, its one thing to recheck timing marks, another to deviate from what looks to be correct.

OK if I had a point it would be that my understanding of ECU is that it has to relearn and refine some functions after the systems have been apart, stored info purged(?) after a battery disco.

And dude, try the nitrile blue gloves to keep the oil chemicals etc from adsorbing into your skin. They're cheap( almost as cheap as I am). Also makes it easy to clean up after wrenching , no tatooed grease

Well I set the valve gaps as per my Chilton manual, so I figure I musta messed up my timing marks by a tooth......hmm but which way??? Also it souds like the backfires are coming thru intake.

. . . so I figure I musta messed up my timing marks by a tooth......hmm but which way???

 

Strongly suggest you not guess at anything, especially timing. Open up the front end, line up the crank and cam marks and rehang the belt properly.

 

Good luck.

Ok I removed timing cover and could you guys validate that these are the right marks to line up.