February 2, 201214 yr Author "Easy stuff here..." (You know me) You will need an Alignment if you f******* with the inner rods I know. I'm trying to decide if I want to do the bearing/hub right away, or put it off, as was my original intention. I'll pay for alignment after tie rods, (I messed up my van alignment/tires after I thought I had it "close enough") but don't want to pay twice, if I put off the bearing/hub job. Ya know?
February 2, 201214 yr There is no reason to get a realignment after the bearing job. You are only unbolting the tierod end BJ from the Hub, there for the wheel toe will remain the same as before. Part search for B&M is not always accurate, if you go there in person, they can get you whatever you need, they will get it from another yard, make sure its good to go, and sell it to you.
February 3, 201214 yr Author There is no reason to get a realignment after the bearing job. You are only unbolting the tierod end BJ from the Hub, there for the wheel toe will remain the same as before. Part search for B&M is not always accurate, if you go there in person, they can get you whatever you need, they will get it from another yard, make sure its good to go, and sell it to you. I contacted B&M re:hub. Do I assume you have dealt w/them before? They do not have good reviews online....
February 3, 201214 yr I contacted B&M re:hub.Do I assume you have dealt w/them before? They do not have good reviews online.... I have, they are fine.
February 3, 201214 yr Author Backing up a little... I haven't ordered parts yet... Re: Beck/Arnley tie rods- Do ya'll like them just because they are "less expensive" -or- do you think they are better than Moog? (Moog=better warranty) Re: Denso 02 sensor- My research led me to believe that these are Subaru OEM is this true? can someone verify? Thanks -K
February 3, 201214 yr Moog is the best you can buy for anything that has Balljoints. But Beck/Arnley is cheeper and still good quality. On an '03 Subaru, Bosh might be Genuine, as GM owned part of Subaru back then. And we all know how GM is loving Bosh's nuts...
February 4, 201214 yr Author Haha yeah, mine is an 01 but, same difference right? Denso=good quality??????? Edited February 4, 201214 yr by KaraK
February 4, 201214 yr Haha yeah, mine is an 01 but, same difference right? Denso=good quality??????? Nippon/Denso is Genuine on most Subarus. NGK if you please...
February 4, 201214 yr Author Thanks. My fave. parts store did have those, almost twice the price I can get Denso online. Goodnight.
February 16, 201214 yr Author Finally received inner tie rods, and 02 sensor from Rockauto... (long ship time to WI I guess...) TheLoyale... B&M parts did not come thru... they say they can not get me the requested part... Any other "local" ideas? Thanks for your help.
February 16, 201214 yr Finally received inner tie rods, and 02 sensor from Rockauto... (long ship time to WI I guess...) TheLoyale... B&M parts did not come thru... they say they can not get me the requested part... Any other "local" ideas? Thanks for your help. Sturtevant Auto has a few 2000+ Subarus (Your Gen) they can pull the entire knuckle and will still be cheep. They are Puerto rican owned. Right off I94 south.
February 16, 201214 yr http://www.sturtevantauto.com/index.php/Main_Page I know for a fact, they have a 2002 Legacy, White 2001 Outback, and another complete Outback inside the fence. I stole a bunch of stuff off most of these cars.
February 16, 201214 yr Author http://www.sturtevantauto.com/index.php/Main_Page I know for a fact, they have a 2002 Legacy, White 2001 Outback, and another complete Outback inside the fence. I stole a bunch of stuff off most of these cars. Thanks for the tip. My main issue would be 'getting to the S.Side of Milw.' to pick up a part. My 'other ride' is parked for the winter... but, might have to do, what I gotta do... Sorry I gotta say this, but- stealing is wrong...
February 16, 201214 yr Thanks for the tip. My main issue would be 'getting to the S.Side of Milw.' to pick up a part. My 'other ride' is parked for the winter... but, might have to do, what I gotta do... Sorry I gotta say this, but- stealing is wrong... Stealing is not wrong in a world of capitalists and Dictators. I get what I need, and I don't believe in being over charged for something that would normally get tossed on the ground and ran over. Think of it as "Recycling"
March 4, 201214 yr Author Alright, I'll comment on "recycling" later... Replaced the 2 inner tie rods, that elimimated the "pull" while under load, and most of the tunk tunk tunking... This makes the wheel bearing issue much more noticable, and pronounced. Hope to take care of that, as soon as I get the $...
March 22, 201313 yr I think your car is built like my wife's which has splined stubs sticking out from the front diff. The big axle cups are splined internally and slip over the stubs and are held in place by a spring pin. However, the stubs are held into the diff by a 'circlip' (w'ever) a circle of springwire in a groove. (IIRC) Some of your initial symptoms seem to fit a scenario in which a 'hard' turn (to the lock) could have pulled on the stub enough to pop it loose - enough to compromise the diff seal - cause leakage of the fluid (which might blow back onto the exhaust) and maybe cause the smell (diff oil smells bad anyway - so it may smell different than engine oil if it got on hot exhaust) thuinking and other odd driveline sensations you report. Doesn't mean any of that is correct, but it's something different to look for. (could be the previous owner got an axle that was too short - or, the stub was pulled out of it's groove just slightly when the old axle was pulled out, but your hard turn when reversing pulled it more, comprimised the seal, it bound-up and is now so far out of place is intermittently engaging internally) I came across this in search and believe I have this happened. 99 legacy brighton wagon with automatic and 270,000 miles. Original cv axle. is not cracked. I have seepage from the drivers side diff, smell as it hits exhaust, and the clunking noise under load while accelerating even on straight line. not while turning. clunking got faster as speed increased. no clunking while still and engine running. If diff stub did "pop" out, how hard is it to get it re-seated?
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