mr.radon Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Friend's 1999 Forester's idler pulley seized. He had a shop do his timing belt about 5K ago, the engine only has 95K. We towed the car over to my house and pulled the motor. Well we found the shop that replaced his timing belt "said" they replaced the pulleys, but they didn't. Anyhow, the exhaust valves hit the top of each piston. So I'm helping him rebuild the motor in my garage. I've yet to ever buy exhaust valves. I did some searching, which should I buy? Does it really matter? DNJ EV710 $10/each or W0133-1631074 $20/each On the side I got the head gaskets from the dealer. Had a timing belt kit with new water pump laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Just order the valves from a dealer. Online dealers list them for 16 and change. You can probably get your local to come down from the normal 23 list price if you haggle them with the online price. Get a hand valve lap tool from the local Parts store and chuck it into a drill to lap the new valves in quickly. Only takes a few seconds but be sure not to grind them too far or they will end up getting burned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 I took the advice and found a few on-line dealer web sites with good discounts. But, while I was at it I stripped the engine down. The pistons looked good (other then the two marks from the exhaust valves) The cylinders all looked good. The crank was very nice, all the journals and bearings looked good, but had a little wear. have the crank sent out for a polish and check. The rods all were straight as were the valve springs. Cam had a small nick near the seal, not sure... All the spark plugs were shot to hell, one had nearly no electrode anymore. That piston had deposits as did the head. The block halves and heads are getting hot tanked as we speak. Heads were straight as can be, am paying to get a little shaved off to allow a good head gasket contact. I'm pissed. :banghead:Whoever worked on this motor was an rump roast. They put in a new clutch recently, did they replace the pilot bearing or release bearing? Oh, no they both grind.... They used no oil pan gasket, ultra grey sealant was used liberally to make sure the next person could not remove it nor clean it. Pressure washer (industrial) took care of the cleaning of the pan. Timing belt. Almost new, did they replace any pulleys? Oh, no... Would this person replace the leaking plastic POS oil separator cover? Oh no, lets keep that cracked cover but stop the leak by spreading a bunch of the Ultra grey on the inside and outside... I bought from the dealer: exhaust valves (8) Oil Separator Cover (metal) (11831AA210) Pilot Bearing Overhaul Gasket Set (10105AA860) Piston ring set Main bearing set Connecting Rob bearing set Coolant bypass hose Crank shaft sensor Inlet Radiator hose Outlet Radiator hose PCV valve Spark plug wire set Spark plugs Valve cover gasket kit Thermostat Hope my friend will be on the road again this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 good job roy, keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Ah, my friend came over last night to help put his engine back together. I found a new shop for the heads, guy did such a good job I tipped him! Anyhow, the parts all came in. Would have finished quicker but the guy wanted to help... Had to keep my eye open to make sure he didn't mess up. He thought pipe sealant was engine lube. He told me the head was clean and I found a rag in a coolant passage. Ikes... Measured the piston ring gaps, right in the middle of the Subaru specs. Can't wait to start the motor. However, one package of parts has yet to arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 They used no oil pan gasket, ultra grey sealant was used liberally to make sure the next person could not remove it nor clean it. That was probably factory sealant. EJ's don't use oil pan gaskets and yes they are very hard to remove. I would trade "hard to remove" anyday for never replacing a gasket again. Cork blows. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 That was probably factory sealant. EJ's don't use oil pan gaskets and yes they are very hard to remove. I would trade "hard to remove" anyday for never replacing a gasket again. Cork blows. GD Excactly, and I've never seen one leak at the seal. I've seen baffle plates make it look like the back of the pan was leaking. I've seen pans rusted through. I've never seen a pan leak from the factory ultra grey looking stuff. And it is always difficult to get it started to come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Try "motorcraft ultra sealer" used on 7.3 Diesel engine oil pans and you can almost take all the bolts out and forget them:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Personally I use anaerobic on the pan. Love the stuff. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 nope, that pan was not a factory seal, easily 3x too much sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 (edited) Used Ultra grey on the pan. I've come around, will do that from now on; used to EA82/ER27's - no more oil pan gasket for me. However, the last guy to seal this pan used WAY too much. Motor started right up, first try. Sounds great. Will bring it back at 1K for valve adjustment if needed. I was surprised how quiet the motor. Used OEM valves, rings, bearings. Was surprised the stock piston ring gap measurements were right in the middle of the spec on all cylinders. Engine went together in just a few hours. Edited December 13, 2011 by mr.radon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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