I think the oil pump in my roo is starting to fail. I had the oil light start to come on yesterday while out driving my 2.2, '98 Legacy wagon. I first noticed it when it flickered barely on and off when the car came to a stop and had to idle, but would go out when the rpm's were above 1500 when driving. Got the car home asap with the same symptoms. Each time the car came to a stop where the rmp's went below 1500 the oil light would come on. I kept the car turned off when I had to remain stopped for more than a second.

 

After consulting with my brother he believes the oil pump is starting to fail and needs to be replaced. Does this sound right to you guys? Could the symptoms represent another issue?

 

Next question. Other than the oil pump itself, what other parts/gaskets should I purchase for the replacement? My brother can do the replacement, I just wanted to make sure I have everything he needs for the job.

 

Thanks!!

UC

I've never seen one fail - but that doesn't mean they don't.

 

On the 2.5's the screws are notorious for loosening. I rarely have a 2.2 oil pump off but the ones I did the screws seem tight.

 

You'll need Ultra Gray (NO gasket for the pump, and a crank seal.

 

Might as well do a timing belt and investigate idlers, WP, etc. I also usually replace accessory belts since they will be off too.

Agree with bugsy^ The oil pumps rarely fail. But the screws on the backing plate often loosen.

 

Remove the pump, clean the backing plate and screws and Loctite them.

 

You'll need a new o-ring where the pump mates to the block, along with the Permatex Ultra-grey. Get an OEM Subaru crank seal.

 

Good luck.

I second the OEM (Brown) crank seal. And oil pump Oring.

 

If you wanna go used PM me. I'm tearing down engines now.

 

Frankly I'll be surprised if yours is bad and the screws aren't loose.

Edited December 9, 201114 yr by davebugs

I second the OEM (Brown) crank seal . . .

 

Actually I think the "new improved" seal is black! I believe it replaced the brown ones.

Thanks a bunch! I'll pass along all of your suggestions to my brother so he'll have it when he gets home and is able to look at the roo. I hope you're right and it's just the screws, but I'm going to play it safe and get a pump anyway so when we have the car apart I'll have the part ready to go if it's needed. I'll also get the o-ring and Ultra Grey.

 

The car is getting on in years and has a little over 325,000 km on it. I drive it over 100km a day to commute to work.

 

UC

How many miles on the car?

 

Does it make any noises on start-up or when idleing

 

Get yourself a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what it is reading. Get one that can has the best range below 20 psig (easiest to read) and see exactly what oil pressure you do have.

 

Does your oil smell like oil or is there fuel in it?

325,000km = 201,945 miles.

 

I'll check the oil, but I've never noticed a fuel smell in it. I just did an oil change about two weeks ago. I'm using synthetic 5w30 and have been using that for the last 6 years.

There is also the potential issue of it being something far more .... dark

 

 

 

(cover your ears and eyes if you don't want to hear it)

 

 

 

 

ready?

 

 

 

Main Bearings

Connecting Rod bearings.

Remove the pump, clean the backing plate and screws and Loctite them.

Does anyone know at what engine oil pressure the oil light is triggered to come on in my model Legacy?

 

It's a '98, 2.2, L wagon.

 

My brother got these numbers when he did a pressure check.

 

12 psi @ 600 rpm (idle)

70 psi @ 4500 rpm

 

The light is still tripping and coming on.

There is also the potential issue of it being something far more .... dark

 

 

 

(cover your ears and eyes if you don't want to hear it)

 

 

 

 

ready?

 

 

 

Main Bearings

Connecting Rod bearings.

 

 

 

If the Main Bearings are wearing, I would add a can of STP to thicken the oil to increase oil pressure. Using thicker oil like 10W-40W, or 20-50W oil could also help. At 325K miles, your engine may be nearing the end of its life. I don't think I would put much time, and or money into an engine that has really high miles.

 

Dropping in a lower millage engine may also make some sense, if the low oil pressure is due to excessive engine wear.

My brother got these numbers when he did a pressure check.

 

The light is still tripping and coming on.

Did he remove the oil pump and tighten the backing plate screws yet? When the screws loosen up, then a gap opens between the pump gears and the case, letting oil bypass the pump. I've seen this happen on 3 pumps.

 

Use loctite on the screws.

Remove the pump, clean the backing plate and screws and Loctite them.

 

 

why is this guy having a link on every post that goes to a USELESS resistor that they call a performance chip?

 

sorry to thread jack but this guy is irritating me with this....he's not a paying vendor.

 

mods?????

Did he remove the oil pump and tighten the backing plate screws yet? When the screws loosen up, then a gap opens between the pump gears and the case, letting oil bypass the pump. I've seen this happen on 3 pumps.

 

Use loctite on the screws.

 

No he did not. He started trouble shooting the issue by taking readings of the current engine oil pressure as is to see if there actually is a drop in pressure, or if the sensor switch is actually faulty.

 

My question still remains though....what are acceptable engine oil pressure readings, and when does the pressure get so low that the sensor is supposed to trip and the light come on?

My question still remains though....what are acceptable engine oil pressure readings, and when does the pressure get so low that the sensor is supposed to trip and the light come on?

 

I seem to recall the switch turns the light on when the pressure is below 2 or 3 psi (FSM says 2.1 psi)

 

MY FSM says for the 2.2 engine you should get 14 psi or more at 700RPM and 43 psi or more at 5000 rpm

Edited December 19, 201114 yr by Mike104