voca Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) Hi I have a subaru fiori 1992 (Australian badge of sherpa/m80 or rex). Its like a little pizza delivery car. Its been in a shed unused for 7 years and now I want to get it going again. Problem is both back wheels are LOCKED SOLID. Removed rear wheels and drums are stuck solid on hubs What have I tried? completely loosened hand brake cable released brake fluid pressure at bleeder valve removed bolts holding wheel cylinder and it seems loose inside bashed around brake drum with big hammer alot with pinch bar in wheel studs as lever, hammered and jumped on sprayed wd-40 lube in handbrake cable entry and around wheel studs Nothing I do seems to come close to freeing the drums. Cant find any adjustment to back off brake shoes. No access through backing plate. Theres a 1/2 inch hole on front surface of drum but not sure whats thats there for (Its NOT threaded). Theres just a steel plate behind it. Cant find anything on the net anywhere re this problem. Also the brakes where completely rebuilt not long before putting the car into storage, but worked well for last 2000 miles travelled. I suspect because was stored with handbrake engaged that the brake shoes a rusted onto the drums????? Any one got any ideas????? I would REALLY APPRECIATE any thoughts:-\ Cheers Kym Edited January 22, 2012 by voca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Heat them up with a welding torch or tow the car and see if they don't break free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voca Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) Hi Imdew Thanks for the quick response. Sorry I forgot to say did tow the car about 3 car lengths and just got two skid marks down my driveway. Unfortunately I dont have access to a blowtorch. Was hoping for a trick to back off shoe adjustment or similar?? I'm not a mechanic but have rebiult heaps of brakes on various cars and got off stuck drums but these are stuck ROCK SOLID on both sides. Maybe I'll try and get a loan of an oxy set. Thanks again! Edited January 21, 2012 by voca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Read where you sprayed WD-40, with no results. You need a better spray then WD-40, as it does a poor job of separating metal parts rusted together. I have found wand spray penetrating oil, or a product called PB Blaster to be much better. Your auto parts store should be able to sell you a good spray. Recommend you spray in a lot of product, then let the spray do its work during a good 24-48 hours period of time to loosen things up. Then, I would tow to see if the drums will break loose. You don't need a blow torch for heat. Use one of those small hand held propane powered torches for heat. If you don't have one, they are inexpensive to purchase. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I suspect the hole on the drum face may be for the adjustment. Not much use if the drum doesn`t turn. Some cars have slots on the drum face that must be punched out.Not sure about yours. I would drill the heads off the shoe hold down pins,if acessible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Looks like you have a slot to punch out if this picture is to be believed. http://www.evmania.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/p-640-480-4db0808b-89b8-4ca2-a681-29c2a56617e6.jpeg Shocking the drum w/a large hammer will usually free it from the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 ive also heard of a product called evaporust. its an enzyme that eats the stuff. good luck mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 (this may be useful: http://uploading.com/files/5ba6f95a/Subaru_700_Sedan.zip/ ) Yep... the product in the US is called evaporust, and it's the "bee's knees" It seems to be available in Australia as well. The problem I see is that it will be difficult to keep the parts immersed (I don't think you can make them leak proof). An option I saw somewhere was to use a small pump to keep the liquid flowing around the rusted parts. That being said, I don't think your problem is with the pads (from your "seems loose inside" comment). And yes, the hole on the drum is the one used for adjustment Now... if you are already at the "hammer it" phase of the job, why don't you try making/renting/buying a slide hammer? If the drum is like the one on the 700 sedan, the studs are fixed to the drum itself, and it *should* be safe to use a slide hammer there. Note also there are many more surfaces that can be rusted But if the car has been sitting for 7 years, waiting a couple of days for a penetrant oil to soak in should not hurt, right? Edit: forgot to mention that the link came from the forum at http://www.ausubaru.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 On an older Volvo, I once had to hammer a (sacrificial) screwdriver into a hole next to one of the stud holes, into the crack between the hub face and the drum, to release the drum from the face of the hub. It's not pretty, but it worked and didn't destroy the hub or drum. A medium light screwdriver that will bend as it is hammered in may be best. Once a little movement is gained, you may be able to rock it loose. The drum will also be caught on the center hub ridge and possibly the wheel studs. A ridge of rust may have formed on the inside edge of the drum, inside the shoe, and the rust may have spread to lock the shoe. Rocking the drum may press the shoes in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupedUpSubie Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Using a large hammer isn't the way to go in most situations. Get a 12-16 oz ball peen and use that. It will vibrate more then just slam. The vibrations will loosen the rust. From the sounds of it nothing for penetrating fluid will work where the shoes seem to be frozen to the drums. Heat and hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Uhm... maybe we need the OP to clarify the part that said "removed bolts holding wheel cylinder and it seems loose inside". I don't see how the cylinder can be loose if the shoes are frozen in place... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupedUpSubie Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 The ebrake function mechanically pushes the shoes out. Not much pressure is on the wheel cylinder at this point. If the shoes are frozen to the drum then the wheel cylinder will be able to move around a bit. Maybe the whole hub needs to be removed and put in a bath of penetrating oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) *IF* the Fiori rear brake setup is similar to the 700, this is what you are dealing with (from the FSM on the link I posted before). I agree the shoes may be preventing the drums from turning (or maybe the drum is rusted to the backing plate, or... ?), *but* in these cars (again, if it's like the 700) the drums will not come out as those in cars having a separate hub. The drum IS the hub, and as such you are fighting against the wheel bearings. If you hammer the drums, it will be the bearings to be receiving the blows... not the brake shoes. If rust is what is preventing this from coming apart, you should really try Evaporust. The thing is amazing... Edited January 24, 2012 by jarl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voca Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Thanks so far everyone, I'll be trying your ideas this weekend and will post how I go. Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voca Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Hi everyone Just wanted to thank those that took the time to offer advise on this one. Got my drums off finally. Took a loan of a big puller designed for brake drums to do it. (as well as lots of banging with a hammer) We broke the wheel cylinder piston ends that mate with the brake shoes but that was the only colateral damage. A pair of new wheel cylinders is AU$40 so its a good outcome. Thanks again to you all and I hope to contribute here in the future. Kym Swanson, Adelaide, Australia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Well, congrats If the ends of the cylinder piston got broken, make sure the pivot point of the shoes (the other end) didn't bend. I wonder if applying some vacuum to the cylinder could have worked. Did you take a picture of the brake setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voca Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Hi Jarl, Will get images and post shortly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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