January 26, 201214 yr So, I've seen several times that if you want the stock temp gauge to work in a GL, you would need a resistor in parallel with the sender unit. Now, I'm not questioning your experiences, but I've got the resistance specs for the sender off Mitchell OnDemand, and they're almost exactly the same. So, shouldn't it work stock? Specs: 87 GL - 154 Ohms = 104-122*F, 18 Ohms = 242-254*F 94 Legacy - 187.6 Ohms = 122*F, 19 Ohms = 248*F I know the low side (temp) is different, but it's not to far off, plus the high side would effect gauge travel more. I ran the resistances for using a 275 Ohm resistor in parallel with the sender, and the values are way off. So, why in practice do you need a resistor, when in theory they should work about the same?
January 26, 201214 yr In practice the gauge reads just above cold with an EJ swap. The resistor is only a "trick" to get the gauge to read similar at a single temp. It's not a linear mapping and isn't accurate for anything other than operating temp. GD
January 26, 201214 yr Your #'s are off. perhaps you are getting stats for the FI temp sensor, not the gauge sender. This is what the Subaru Factory manual says 88 GL: 72 Ohms= 158 F, 16.1 Ohms = 248 F 90 leagcy: 134 Ohms = 135 F, 19 Ohms = 248 F These are directly from the Fuji service manuals. Section 6-2 body electrical.
January 26, 201214 yr Your #'s are off. perhaps you are getting stats for the FI temp sensor, not the gauge sender. This is what the Subaru Factory manual says 88 GL: 72 Ohms= 158 F, 16.1 Ohms = 248 F 90 leagcy: 134 Ohms = 135 F, 19 Ohms = 248 F These are directly from the Fuji service manuals. Section 6-2 body electrical. This is exactly what I thought too when I read his numbers. I know parts shops mix those up quite a bit.
January 26, 201214 yr Author Your #'s are off. perhaps you are getting stats for the FI temp sensor, not the gauge sender. This is what the Subaru Factory manual says 88 GL: 72 Ohms= 158 F, 16.1 Ohms = 248 F 90 leagcy: 134 Ohms = 135 F, 19 Ohms = 248 F These are directly from the Fuji service manuals. Section 6-2 body electrical. weird, i pulled those from acc, gauges, temp on mitchell. the fi one is a ptc, these are ntc, at least, that is what mitchell says. good to know. also, sorry about my typing, my phones keyboard is being stupid.
January 27, 201214 yr weird, i pulled those from acc, gauges, temp on mitchell. the fi one is a ptc, these are ntc, at least, that is what mitchell says. good to know. also, sorry about my typing, my phones keyboard is being stupid. The legacy one could correct #'s.......Hard to know excactly since they used a different temp for the lower spec. The GL #'s are definately not right. Parts info, and Service info for 80's subarus is notoriously inaccurate, mislisted, or just flat out wrong (torque to yeild head bolts in an EA82???) Only Factory manuals can be fully trusted...and I've found a few misprints in them too:rolleyes:
January 28, 201214 yr This is the way I decided to handle the EA-EJ temp sender issue. It looks like it should work, and it's easy to do. Hope it helps someone! [attach]9322[/attach] [attach]9323[/attach]
January 28, 201214 yr This is the way I decided to handle the EA-EJ temp sender issue. It looks like it should work, and it's easy to do. Hope it helps someone! [attach]9322[/attach] [attach]9323[/attach] thats how my temp sender is setup in the brumby...works great
January 28, 201214 yr I added mine into the radiator hose adaptors I figured It was the best place to put it as I had to make the adaptors anyway.
January 28, 201214 yr Nice, that should work also. Is it running yet? Yeah it should work quite well. And I wish it was running I need to paint my wagon, then it's on to the ecu issues. I have some ideas where to go.
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