How much compression should I have in a 94 EJ22T?

175 -180 no less than 150

175 -180 no less than 150

 

Ok, thanks!

You can check in the FSM here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

You can check in the FSM here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Thank you!

Or just wait for someone to post the specifications page from it.

No guessing that way

I know that is the factory specs.

 

However, all the ones I've ever tested....even the ones that run great with no oil burning, only test at about 125 psi.

 

Not sure what that means......except that they will still run just fine with 125 psi.

I know that is the factory specs.

 

However, all the ones I've ever tested....even the ones that run great with no oil burning, only test at about 125 psi.

 

Not sure what that means......except that they will still run just fine with 125 psi.

 

You've probably tested them without the turbo running.

Thanks fella's...

When I did test I got 126#...except for #4. She's at 0#

You've probably tested them without the turbo running.

 

Does the turbo make any boost at ~300 rpm?

Ok fella's, need some more help. As I mentioned before #4 has 0# of compression, all others have 126#. A forum member told me to perform a cylinder leak down test on #4 hole. I did it tonight. According to what I understand at TDC with air applied I should either hear air at tailpipe or air intake if valves are wasted or crankcase (oil dip stick) if piston/rings are wasted. Well when I did the test I didn't hear a thing anywhere, no air. As a matter of fact it appeared to be holding pressure in the hole. Now I'm confused, not sure what to try next. Is there a certain amount of air pressure I should be using?

Generally leak-down tests are done with shop air ~ 90-100 psi.

 

Did you use an actual leak down tester or did you just hook up an air hose to the cylinder?

Re-do the compression test on that cylinder, this time hold the throttle wide open.

Generally leak-down tests are done with shop air ~ 90-100 psi.

 

Did you use an actual leak down tester or did you just hook up an air hose to the cylinder?

I hook an air hose to the cylinder...

Re-do the compression test on that cylinder, this time hold the throttle wide open.

I did retest that cylinder and it was still 0#....I tested all the cylinders with the throttle wide open, injector plugs off and spark plugs wired pulled at the coil....

Does the turbo make any boost at ~300 rpm?

 

No. IIRC, the turbo cuts in at either 2600 rpm or 3500 rpm. I think I'm mixing up my memory on models. In either case, it's way more than low idle rpms.

Burt valve you can hear out exhaust poh poh poh poh not smooth

I'm still thinking burnt valve as well.

 

The air hose you used for the compression test that threads into the spark plug hole, is that the same hose you used for the leak test?

Reason I ask is the hoses used for compression checks can have a one way valve in them, usually on the end that threads into the cylinder, to let air from the cylinder flow into the hose, but not back out.

If you used that hose for the leak test, no air would have made it into the cylinder.

how about broken timing belt? will it run at all with a "dead" miss, or did it just die?

 

i had a ej22 non turbo do this once. stripped the teeth off the timing belt and was holding ONE cylinder's valves open. cant remember which one but i looked at the belt through the "cam caps" only. The belt was still in tact. My friend came over to help me, and shocked me when he said that the belt wasn't turning. That was many years ago and NOW I KNOW.

 

If it is the belt, it is NON interferance, line everything up by the tick marks (NOT THE ARROWS!!!!) replace the belt, idlers and waterpump, and fire it up.

Edited March 28, 201214 yr by Ricearu

Two things can cause 0 compression in one cylinder:

 

Burnt exhaust valve: EJ22 engines have tiny exhaust valves and it's very common to find this.

 

Seized oil rings or even broken ring landing. Also very common, especially in a turbo engine.

 

Either way, you can test it any way you can think of: it's gotta come out and have some work done to it.

I'm still thinking burnt valve as well.

 

The air hose you used for the compression test that threads into the spark plug hole, is that the same hose you used for the leak test?

Reason I ask is the hoses used for compression checks can have a one way valve in them, usually on the end that threads into the cylinder, to let air from the cylinder flow into the hose, but not back out.

If you used that hose for the leak test, no air would have made it into the cylinder.

AAAH....I did use the same hose that I used for the compression test. At the time that is all I had. I now have a cylinder leak back tester and will try it again tomorrow. I have gaskets ordered, already have the head. I'll let you know what I come up with...thanks for the help so far dude...pete

how about broken timing belt? will it run at all with a "dead" miss, or did it just die?

 

i had a ej22 non turbo do this once. stripped the teeth off the timing belt and was holding ONE cylinder's valves open. cant remember which one but i looked at the belt through the "cam caps" only. The belt was still in tact. My friend came over to help me, and shocked me when he said that the belt wasn't turning. That was many years ago and NOW I KNOW.

 

If it is the belt, it is NON interferance, line everything up by the tick marks (NOT THE ARROWS!!!!) replace the belt, idlers and waterpump, and fire it up.

Timing belt was the first thing I did check. I originally thought my problem was the belt was a tooth off. The dude I bought the car from told me both cylinders on the drivers side had 0# of compression and the passenger side had 110#. Well after checking I only have one cylinder (#4) with 0# of compression, the other 3 are at 126#. I did however order a new belt, idlers and water pump and will install it when the head comes off. Thanks for your input, I appreciate you helping me try to figure out my issue...