samneric Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Finally got to my HG job... Look at this POS...... and what it did to the color of the water jacket... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 That has nothing to do with the water pump. That's from someone running straight water or anti-freeze that's a decade old. Based on that water pump.... I would throw the engine, radiator, and all the hoses in the dumpster and I *might* condemn the heater core also. That's BAD. I would be surprised if you can save that engine. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Gosh. The thing about the water though.. I was filling it up so often it was "fresh" water... I quit putting anti-freeze in. It only turned that color in the last few months - almost as if the gases were reacting with something - and the metal Finns on that non-oem pump look like the candidate. Needless to say - I will be flushing both oil AND water after one trip when its back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Yes that's due to mineral contamination and galvanic corrosion. Antifreeze has components in in that prevent transfer of electrons from aluminum to iron or whatever other metals there may be in the cooling system. Water from a tap is the worst possible substance you can add to the cooling system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Gosh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 so... (from wikipedia) The anode metal (water pump blade) dissolves into the electrolyte, and deposition is formed on the cathodic metal (aluminium casing). Wow - well, with the new HGs in I will naturally be adding antifreeze so that won't happen again. But how to clean the corrosion? Is there a radiator flush out there that anyone recommends? One that hopefully won't affect the new pump? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 With proper antifreeze, Subaru or Peak long life I have heard is compatible as well, mixed with distilled water, any effects of the corrosion will be prolonged. There are some flushes in auto parts stores but I'm not sure how effective they will be at removing rust buildup. They will certainly not make it any worse though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Has nothing to do with it being an "aftermarket" water pump. For one thing the OEM pump for your engine would have a cast iron impeller that isn't even coated - at least that thing was probably coated with something at one point. And Subaru has, since like '08 or so, switched to the stamped impellers on their OEM pumps as well. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that water pump. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 +1 on everything everyone has said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) I guess it comes down to the potential difference between that blade and the case. I guess the moral of the story is: Keep adding antifreeze when your head gaskets are going bad... Steve Edited April 9, 2012 by samneric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 The heads will get cleaned at the machine shop during resurfacing. The block, since it's open deck, is pretty easy to clean when the heads are of. It takes some patience and some long tools, a bunch of rags or blue shop towels. I would definately flush the radiator, and heater cores. And next time........Add the antifreeze/coolant. Adding just water corrodes the engine, and water boils and pressurizes at too low a temp.......you can overheat with just straight water, even if it's full......boils.....overpressurizes......spews out......cooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Gosh. All this remember will I next time my HG's go Naturally, I always run Antifreeze when it isn't pissing out all over the road after serveral miles of warm-up The trick to flushing the rad and heater core will be getting the flush fluid in there and cycling around to where it can take effect while the cooling system is open. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Flush the heater core with a garden hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 The symptoms I experienced were fascinating however... Looking back, the HG failure definately accelerated due to the straight water/corrosion issue. Will definately keep AF in it even though it will cost an arm and a leg to run it that way. My biggest problem was that I was working nights and weekends at work to finish a project and didn't have time or a replacement car to tackle the HG job. The good news is... when I finally couldn't drive it any more than 3 miles before it overheated, I was FORCED to buy an alternate vehicle. Luckily, I stumbled across this beauty that happened to be in my price-range You've gotta love the fact that its engine only has TWO internal moving parts.... No cams or timing belts to worry about here Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) You've gotta love the fact that its engine only has TWO internal moving parts.... No cams or timing belts to worry about here I count 9.... two rotors, one crank, and 6 apex-seals (not counting the springs seperately). Apex-seals are more of a problem than EJ timing belts It's only about 3 hours to change an EJ water pump. Shouldn't have to drive it that way for long. GD Edited April 9, 2012 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Yeah, forgot about the second rotor. Must admit I'm still Wankel-ignorant. Didn't know the apex-seals moved independently of the rotors. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 They slide in and out of the tips of the rotor. That's what allows the odd shaped housing to seal against the rotor. They are the equivelent to piston rings but the rotory puts them under significant stress. Oil consumption due to apex seal failure in those engines is a problem. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Just watched this.... Fascinating Yeah you don't want a seal to blow. Apparently, with regular service they shouldn't blow - unless you go crazy with it on a drag-track (not in my near future). I guess this failure is comparable to a timing belt break on a Subie engine - Remedy seems to be new rotor/housing for the section of engine that failed. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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