I have a 92 Loyale with about 105,000 miles on it, and the check engine light is on. I know it's pre-OBD2, so I wasn't sure how to check it to see what it might be. I think it might be an O2 code, because the car is sluggish on acceleration from a stop, but I'm unsure.

 

Any information to help check the light, and determine what it is would be great. I can't seem to find anything on the internet.

Check out this.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

Thank you. Although I still need the codes for 92 Loyale. Do those apply to my car as well?

Yep any all of these apply to the Loyale as well. 1988-94 SPFI EA82s are all the same

 

-- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection --

 

CODE PROBABLE CAUSE

11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit

12 Starter Switch or Circuit

13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit

14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output

21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit

23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit

24 Air Control Valve or Circuit

31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit

32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit

33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit

34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit

35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit

42 Idle Switch or Circuit

45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit

51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position

55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit

61 Parking Switch or Circuit

Thanks all! Newbie here with a 92 Loyale Sedan. Will be using this code list tomorrow.

 

Any suggestions on getting the correct Repair Manual for this car. Napa and Autozone suggest the Haynes Repair Manual titled "1600 and 1800". I found some good PDF's of the EA82 engine already. Would like something for repairing the car as well. Esspecially electrical.

The Haynes 1600-1800 manual isn't to bad for the EA82 cars.

 

Also, see if you can find this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Coupes-Sedans-1985-96-Chiltons/dp/0801987970

 

I have it, and it is very good and detailed. Lots of wiring schematics, exploded views and break-downs.

 

There are also PDF versions of the 1987 GL FSM (Factory Service Manual) floating around, which will apply to your car. And are a major help

 

Cheers,

-Tom

I have a copy of the 89 GL FSM in 2 PDFs (one is 5.19 MB, the other is 3.84 MB) covering the general, engine and electrical systems (including wiring diagrams) that I can email if needed by anyone - forgot where I got them from, but very handy to have.

 

(pm email addys - do not post them in public, please - for your privacy)

Edited May 15, 201213 yr by heartless

Thanks for the advice on manuals. I found the Haynes 1600/1800 on line at Rock Auto for $10 with shipping. The PDFs for the 89 were on line at some guy who uses the EA82 engine in his airplanes. Really appreciate the support. As the new owner I am gathering info to do the Timing belt and other work under the belt covers. Major oil leak forcing the effort. 1/2 quart of oil in 7 miles! Good news is the Loyale is rust free and only has 86,000 Miles. Purchased from the original owner who stopped driving at 92.

The haynes is decent, I reference it from time to time if I need a picture of how something is gonna look, or another opinion on how to fix something.

For really important things though like head torque, I wouldn't use it. It does have some stuff wrong.

For really important things though like head torque, I wouldn't use it. It does have some stuff wrong.

 

I will back this up, the Head torque for the ER27 was incorrect by a few pounds IIRC.

 

HGs are the only things I follow torque specs on, everything else I just go by feel.

Thank you! I appreciate the responses. It's been hard to figure things out with these cars. Being able to find parts for it has been challenging sometimes. No one likes to keep any Loyale parts around lol. If anyone has a site or place that is best for getting parts please let me know. I've had decent luck with Autozone.

 

I have one side question, should the brakes on the Loyales be kinda squishy? With not a lot of pressure or grab power to them? I've put new pads/shoes on all 4, and bled it multiple times, but it doesn't seem like it has the grab power it should have. I wasn't sure if it not feeling very strong is just a small car side effect, lol. Any help would be great.

Brakes shouldn't be squishy. They're pretty firm in my 89. If you're sure you have all the air out of the system, something else is tired.

Rubber lines can get old and bulge a bit when you hit the brakes, that'll cause squishy. Master cylinder can leak past the rings and make the brakes not work right.