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How to remove AC components from Loyale EA82?


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Just hoses if I can get away with it. It has AN style cone fittings on the compressor now, the high-side(compressor output to condenser in front of Rad) is broken...probably because someone (not me) didn't loosen up compressor before trying to change #2 plug.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

I'm pretty sure the firewall fittings are the same across the different AC units, just different compressors and fittings at compressor.

 

So, guess what I"m trying to get across is, if XXX's hoses are the same as mine, I just need the one hose. If XXX's compressor fittings are different, without the entire compressor, I may not be able to fit to the car's existing parts.

 

Here's a shot of the broken hose...I probably could use all of them though. That's a 1/4" craftsman ratchet for size reference.

attachment.php?attachmentid=9811&stc=1&d=1337978388

post-14603-13602765614_thumb.jpg

Edited by Storydude1
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I'll take a look for the hoses tomorrow, Sat. Story

 

_aw...are you going to jump on Subruise bracket?. you have dibs..it's your thread.

 

I may want to stick with my bolt idea...but having the alternator tighter and lower is less of a jury rig...and no doubt slightly more structural...

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  • 1 month later...

Not sure if this thread is alive anymore, but I just removed my AC and power steering, used an alternator bracket from an 85 ea82 with no PS or AC and got a shorter belt (35 7/8")

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffkinzer/7576949716/

 

The only problem I've noticed is that my electric fan comes on automatically when the key is turned one click and never shuts off, whereas before it would come on once the engine reached temperature.

 

I wonder is this something I can fix and get working the same as before, or is it just better to add a switch on my dash for the electric fan?

Edited by jkinz
wrong belt length
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Not sure if this thread is alive anymore, but I just removed my AC and power steering, used an alternator bracket from an 85 ea82 with no PS or AC and got a shorter belt (36 7/8")

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffkinzer/7576949716/

 

The only problem I've noticed is that my electric fan comes on automatically when the key is turned one click and never shuts off, whereas before it would come on once the engine reached temperature.

 

I wonder is this something I can fix and get working the same as before, or is it just better to add a switch on my dash for the electric fan?

 

I'll work with ya here..but with a question.

I know my fan works due to a by-pass test, but don't know if it ever comes on while driving or when the engine reaches temperature.....how does one know if this happens?

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Not sure if this thread is alive anymore, but I just removed my AC and power steering, used an alternator bracket from an 85 ea82 with no PS or AC and got a shorter belt (36 7/8")

 

 

The only problem I've noticed is that my electric fan comes on automatically when the key is turned one click and never shuts off, whereas before it would come on once the engine reached temperature.

 

I wonder is this something I can fix and get working the same as before, or is it just better to add a switch on my dash for the electric fan?

 

I've never had a problem with the electric fan working the same with AC removed. You've got something else going on.

 

Doug

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...in the pic the white vertical is rolled up paper towel...the bolt holes appear to line up good enough to replace paper towel with a long bolt and sleeve as a spacer... can use same belts and pretty sure it would be structurally sound..

 

CIMG5875.jpg

 

 

As long as this thread is back up (hope you figure out your prob jkinz) [fwiw..I used to be Rick James, but lost the account in a "new sign in info needed" snafu]

...here's a pic of the jury rigged alt bracket without the AC compressor.. it replaces the white paper towel in the above pic...it works fine, structurally sound, and can use the original belt. It's @ a 7" long 3/8" dia bolt, the "sleeve" is a section of "black pipe".

 

CIMG6364.jpg

 

Now a question... I removed the AC compressor, condensor, disconnected the lines/hoses anything I saw having to do with the AC....the stubs that appear to go into the glove box from the engine compartment, I sealed off.

 

My question is....today I turned my fan on...Heat mode, BiLevel mode, etc and got the strongest rush of air movement when pushing the AC button...obviously I won't be getting cooled air.... is there anything I should be concerned about...left over freon or anything?

 

 

edit: oh yeah, again I'll ask, how do you know if yur electric fan comes on at all while driving...like I said, I know mine works cause of a by pass test...maybe I just gotta get the engine all heated up then lift the hood?...is it as scientific as that?

Edited by RXJ
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As long as this thread is back up (hope you figure out your prob jkinz) [fwiw..I used to be Rick James, but lost the account in a "new sign in info needed" snafu]

...here's a pic of the jury rigged alt bracket without the AC compressor.. it replaces the white paper towel in the above pic...it works fine, structurally sound, and can use the original belt. It's @ a 7" long 3/8" dia bolt, the "sleeve" is a section of "black pipe".

 

CIMG6364.jpg

 

Now a question... I removed all the AC compressor, condensor, disconnected the lines/hoses anything I saw having to do with the AC....the stubs that appear to go into the glove box from the engine compartment, I sealed off.

 

My question is....today I turned my fan on...Heat mode, BiLevel mode, etc and got the strongest rush of air movement when pushing the AC button...obviously I won't be getting cooled air.... is there anything I should be concerned about...left over freon or anything?

naw, youll be fine. mine does that too. ac=lots of fan. btw your alt pulley is RUSTY, clean that thing up before it eats your belt

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thanks subruise...

yeah that rusted track hasn't had a belt for a long time but the one closest to the alt is pretty shiny...kinda how I knew I put the belt on the right one...well, other than a visual misalignment thing..

 

did you sell your bracket yet? I'm happy with the jury rig..pretty solid..so far :-)....seriously I expect no problems

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maybe I just gotta get the engine all heated up then lift the hood?...is it as scientific as that

 

That's what I did lol.

 

If there's nothing around you, you can actually hear it click on, as well as see the electrical draw if you're idling as when the fan clicks on the idle will drop a little. Chances are if your cooling system is working well you're not going to get the engine hot enough to click that fan on unless you're in a warmer climate. 70 degree ambient temperature probably isn't going to let your engine get warm enough for the fan..

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My question is....today I turned my fan on...Heat mode, BiLevel mode, etc and got the strongest rush of air movement when pushing the AC button...obviously I won't be getting cooled air.... is there anything I should be concerned about...left over freon or anything?

That's the recirculate mode. It opens a flapper door behind the glovebox so the fan in pulling air from the interior rather than outside at the base of the windshield. It goes into that mode when you select max AC. You don't get any more air, but you do get more fan noise because the intake of the fan is now inside the car with you.

 

It's best to pull the evaporator box from under the dash and replace it with the plastic bellows connector that non-ac cars have. You don't have to pull the dash to get it out.

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DERP

 

ACWires.jpg

 

This is why the fan is on. when I pulled everything I just unplugged all the wires that run into the A/C hose. looks like a thermistor or something. If I unplug the black connector the fan comes on.

 

So, I wonder what I should do... just stuff it all back in or try to figure out what these wires do and get rid of them properly?

Edited by jkinz
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DERP

 

ACWires.jpg

 

This is why the fan is on. when I pulled everything I just unplugged all the wires that run into the A/C hose. looks like a thermistor or something. If I unplug the black connector the fan comes on.

 

So, I wonder what I should do... just stuff it all back in or try to figure out what these wires do and get rid of them properly?

 

interesting...tomorrow I'll see if I have those same wires and try to duplicate what you got going on...pretty sure I got a white one disconnected and just laying in there, not so sure about the black

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interesting...tomorrow I'll see if I have those same wires and try to duplicate what you got going on...pretty sure I got a white one disconnected and just laying in there, not so sure about the black

 

I apologize for being slow on this..but I don't have the black wire connected to that AC line like you do..only the white..

??

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ACWires.jpg

My Loyale is unplugged from the upper white connector. Fan works normal.

 

Doug

 

The White connector is the Pressure Switch, it disables the Compressor to Run when there is Low Gas Pressure on the System, to avoid damage the Unit.

 

The Black one is only on the Early EA82's with A/C and is intended to let the Fan Run when certain pressure is Reached...

 

 

A-CSwitches.jpg

 

 

...So, if you unplug any one of the two Spades terminals, the A/C Fan will start run all the times the Key is on the Switch on ON or ACC.

 

If you want to avoid this fan being always running with the key, you only need to cut both Terminals on the Black plug and Join (weld) them together.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
mispelled word, fixed.
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You're probably right about that. I can't say that for sure because I made an assumption when I posted. I'm pretty sure I was wrong.

 

I have an '87 front wheel drive 5 speed I removed the AC on, redid some stuff...the car was an Airport Subaru in Miami.

 

Anyway I started it up and ran it, just I haven't put fan on it yet. May be I'll do that tomorrow. And wire those two together. :)

 

Cars I've removed the AC from no problem disconnecting anything. All 5 speed DR 4WD GL's. '86, 87, 89, then the Loyale. I did a Turbo Traction Wagon, bought the car for the motor and running gear. Anyway.

 

Tuneed it up with a new radiator and ran it some. Haven't put the electric fan back on it so hard to say on that one. It's an '88. This one had the inboard alt so it just stayed on its own bracket. Removed the comp no problem. Shorter belt, that's it.

 

Doug

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Thanks for the info

 

So it seems like I can disconnect the white plug for the pressure switch and join the two wires off the black switch no problem. I wonder, will joining these two wires cause the fan to never turn on, or will the coolant temp sensor handle this. I guess I'll just try it and find out.

 

I'm thinking about swapping my mechanical fan for an electric fan if the clearance works. Then I guess I'll be wiring a switch in my dash anyway, maybe for both fans. Not sure if it's worth the effort but it would be nice to never have to remove those pesky four nuts holding the fan onto the water pump pulley. I got frustrated enough that I welded a 12" piece of rebar to a 10mm open end wrench just for that task. Makes it a little easier to do.

 

(Note: just started browsing Loyale 2.7 Turbo's profile and it looks like I've found nearly all I need to know! Awesome)

 

Thanks again for the input, I really appreciate it

Edited by jkinz
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You're Welcome! :)

 

... I wonder, will joining these two wires cause the fan to never turn on, or will the coolant temp sensor handle this...

 

Yes, the Coolant Temperature Switch will continue working normally and Handle this.

 

In my Public Profile, you'll find an Index of my Main Writeups & download Links for useful files, look for the Electric Fan Conversion Writeup.

 

Kind Regards.

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