Yep. my OBDII scanner gets used by other people more than on my own cars, but, this morning, I put it in my car to help a coworker - and my car throws codes and runs like cr@p!

 

P2012, P2007 P2006 - and I don't think I'm getting any boost (don't have a boost gauge)

 

sigh

Yep. my OBDII scanner gets used by other people more than on my own cars, but, this morning, I put it in my car to help a coworker - and my car throws codes and runs like cr@p!

 

P2012, P2007 P2006 - and I don't think I'm getting any boost (don't have a boost gauge)

 

sigh

Remove the scanner from the car immediately before the wheels fall off!

some brief searching seems to point to a problem with the tumble generator valves.

 

A lot of folks seem to delete these but, it looks like major disassembly.

 

i dunno, I may have to find a local mech to help me with this one.

Probably have boost, it just can't get through the TGVs.

P2012 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low Bank 2

P2006 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1

P2007 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 2

 

I'd try some seafoam. Then remove the TGV assemblies and clean them if that doesn't work.

Probably have boost, it just can't get through the TGVs.

P2012 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low Bank 2

P2006 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1

P2007 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 2

 

I'd try some seafoam. Then remove the TGV assemblies and clean them if that doesn't work.

 

never tried the seafoam. (I have read about folks using it) Decades ago, I've used berryman's B12 chemtool on carburetor cars.

 

I suppose even with my WRX, I would use the brake booster line????

Booster line is a little too big IMO, I use a 1/8" ID hose attached to one of the nipples on top near the throttle body. I use a section that's about 2 feet long so I can dip it into the bottle a little at a time. Prop the throttle open a hair with a screw driver and hold it at about 1500 - 2000 rpm then let it SLOWLY suck up about half the can. Shut the engine off for a few minutes then restart and enjoy the smoke show. Just stay out of the boost until most of the crud burns off. Do this when your neighbors house is downwind (the one you don't like). :-p

Booster line is a little too big IMO, I use a 1/8" ID hose attached to one of the nipples on top near the throttle body. I use a section that's about 2 feet long so I can dip it into the bottle a little at a time. Prop the throttle open a hair with a screw driver and hold it at about 1500 - 2000 rpm then let it SLOWLY suck up about half the can. Shut the engine off for a few minutes then restart and enjoy the smoke show. Just stay out of the boost until most of the crud burns off. Do this when your neighbors house is downwind (the one you don't like). :-p

 

well, I have drive-by-wire but, I suppose i can get a helper or, as you allude, maybe I can 'sip' the cleaner slowly enough to not stall the engine untill I've gotten a fair amount into the intake.

 

if this solvent/cleaner trick doesn't work, I've already checked out a TGV delete kit from KSTech. And, since there would be major (for me) disassembly anyway, I'd probably also get the block-off plates for my non-functioning air cut valves too. Already had to remove those DTCs last year. Just left the valves and air pump in place since the valves were stuck closed. Probably take the opportunity to do some other stuff too. Silicone hoses and uppipe and....and....and.... ha!

When letting it suck it in, I like to think of it as a sailor just entering shore leave. You want to give it a nice small straw so it takes time to suck it down. Else she'll guzzle the entire cup down in a few seconds.

so, a vacuum line T and extra hose might be all I need?

I have always kind of liked the fuel pressure regulator hose as an inlet, at least on the n/a's. Not familiar with the turbos.

I have always kind of liked the fuel pressure regulator hose as an inlet, at least on the n/a's. Not familiar with the turbos.

 

got diagram or pic?

This is the only one I could find off hand:

 

I have though also taken the air filter housing completely off, and then used a spray bottle to mist the seafoam into the intake. I like that because then it gets distributed everywhere. Letting it suck in certain ports it looks like it would all just run down into one cylinder. The MAF cars don't like it though, so usually I just unplug the MAF if doing it this way.

OK thanx

 

I will report back after w'ever I do. I have to get something done for it this weekend.

 

ugh

DBW? What year is this thing?! I saw 06 in your profile, I thought they were still cable then?

OK, I admit I may have been a little overly excited. I cleared the codes after limping in to work this morning. When i started the car to leave, no CEL and it drove normally!

 

So, this tells me that the motors eithe rwork or are intermittent, and also that 'perhaps' the valves were stuck due to some gummy reidue that was stickier thos morning at 84 degrees than this afternoon at - maybe - 100degs under the hood. Kinda surprised but also happy the code hasn't returned.

 

so, I purchased a can of Seafoam and put it in during a fill-up. Then, I drove a few miles before parking it as usual.

 

My hope is, enough deposits may be cleaned by the additive such that I won't need to do the 'fog the neighborhood for mosquitoes' trick.

 

I may not have been very focused/calm about this and was evidently premature to be in any panic over it. - got 2-3 personal 'dramas' going on right now and really don't need car trouble.

If you put it in the gas it won't help any. The TGVs are upstream of the injectors and never see fuel. It could be just a fluke. I'd still seafoam the intake though, just for kicks.

If you put it in the gas it won't help any. The TGVs are upstream of the injectors and never see fuel. It could be just a fluke. I'd still seafoam the intake though, just for kicks.

 

 

dang! You'd think i woulda realized that after looking at TGV deleted intake risers and stuff.

Today I used the vacuum line on the BPV to introduce about 1/3 can of seafoam into my idling car. I stalled it twice. Restarted and kept 'sipping' the solvent. At the ned, i was able to make it stumble, then it revved up a little at which point I plunged the small line I was using fully into the SF and stalled the car. Now, I'm going to let it sit for a while. I'll start it and drive a round a little later.

 

threw the remaining 2/3 can into the wife's Outback.

 

Um, I suppose, if the entire episode I experienced WAS/IS due to sticking TG valves, the causative substance must be oil since the injectors are below/downstream from them. That seems to only leave oil as the suspect substance, from where?, the PCV or turbo?

 

Is rust a possibility?

Edited June 25, 201213 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

Rust? Sucked up any water lately? Doubtful.

The intake gets crudded up with oil vapor from the breather system, and carbon from the EGR if it has it.

 

The oil vapor tends to turn into ultra sticky/waxy sludge. Much like tar, or molasses... in Antarctica... in August. :-p Uneasily cleaned, and solvents usually just smear it around and settle somewhere else. Seafoam does a decent job at getting it loosened up some, but it doesn't get it all. Temporarily it works just fine for lots of problems, but ultimately a good cleaning of the intake with a solvent and brush is what it takes to get all the build up out. Then you get all kinds of extra power and smooth idle, so long as the buildup hasn't damaged vital parts.

threw p2012 again yesterday. Cleared and it hasn't returned - yet

 

I suspect either the battery is getting weak - or it's time to fog for mosquitoes again!

We delete these all the time. Just get some JDM TGV housings. I get them off JDM import engines quite a bit because we put DWB engines into 2.0 cars and use their stock manifold. The JDM engines don't have TGV's.

 

It's not that bad of a job - intake pull is about 5 hours. Do a silicone turbo inlet at the same time. We like Tomei. 

 

GD

We delete these all the time. Just get some JDM TGV housings. I get them off JDM import engines quite a bit because we put DWB engines into 2.0 cars and use their stock manifold. The JDM engines don't have TGV's.

 

It's not that bad of a job - intake pull is about 5 hours. Do a silicone turbo inlet at the same time. We like Tomei. 

 

GD

nice! better than grinding it out myself!

 

those risers/mani will fit my 06 WRX 2.5?

 

will my injectors move over?

 

if you have a set/one to sell, how much to buy and ship one to DFW area? (this means I'll have to re-learn how to use ECU flash to kill some codes too right?)

 

might be a nice future project. Right now I'm looking at some strut replacement work.

Edited May 9, 20178 yr by 1 Lucky Texan