Front-end noise :: brgs or axle ?

[Dee2]

90 Loyale AT FWD sedan

 

I'm trying to figure out if the front-end noise I'm getting is from the bearings or the axle. I believe it is coming from the driver's (left) side. I recently replaced bearings and outer boot on the right side so I'm confident that side is ok.

 

There's no play in the left wheel. I checked the torque on the axle nut and it is ok.

 

The left side NAPA axle was new, 5000 miles ago. I remember there was some of the same noise right after the install but the shop that installed it thought it might be the bearings, perhaps damaged by the old bad axle, and to drive it a while to see if the noise could be better isolated/defined.

 

The noise seems louder but I want to determine for myself, if I can, which is the culprit, bearings or axle.

 

The axle has a lifetime warranty, so I might just pull it myself and take it back with the shop receipt. If I can avoid having to argue for a warranty replacement, that would be nice and I will just replace the bearings. I'd also rather not have to pull the axle out twice if I can avoid it, once for the bearings and again for the axle if the noise isn't resolved.

 

Any suggestions/tips for isolating noise source ?

Edited August 26, 2012 by Dee2

[Mykeys Toy]

It really depends on the noise. If it is a clicking noise then it is axle new or not sometimes you get a lemon. If it is more grinding squealing or howling it could simply be an axle nut not tight enough... it happens. You could very well be right about the bearings. I hope that helps narrow down the possibilities.

[GeneralDisorder]

1. Remember that no play can be felt with the parking brake engaged. It's on the front wheels and locks the rotor/hub/axle to the knuckle and no bearing or cone washer play can be isolated.

 

2. The cone washer under the axle nut is often disregarded by shops that don't know better. They are often damaged during removal and not installed correctly leading to wear, looseness, and noise.

 

Check for play with the parking brake off and then check the condition of the cone washer, hub mating surface, hub splines, axle splines, and the potion of the axle gripped by the shaft-locking cone washer.

 

GD

[Dee2]

I finally got back to this project. Got the axle out and it was definitely the problem. The DOJ was no good. I took it back to NAPA and got my free replacement.

 

Unfortunately, when taking out the old axle, the inside bearing and seal came out with it and I couldn't get them off the axle. I decided to just replace them too.

 

In looking at the replacement when I got home, I found the DOJ was really stiff and difficult to rotate. I also noticed there is no axial movement in the joint. I hope this is only because this is new and perhaps the grease has settled.

 

Anyone know if this is common to find the joints so stiff on new axles ?

[idosubaru]

Anyone know if this is common to find the joints so stiff on new axles ?

yep, i've seen it before. it'll loosen up.

 

aftermarket axles have these issues quite often, I would go with MWE or rebooting original OEM Subaru axles to avoid the aftermarket mess.

[Dee2]

yep, i've seen it before. it'll loosen up.

 

aftermarket axles have these issues quite often, I would go with MWE or rebooting original OEM Subaru axles to avoid the aftermarket mess.

 

Glad to know my suspicions were correct. This axle was under a NAPA wraranty so I am going to be their friend for a while

[Dee2]

Ugh! Had to pull the axel twice. After the first time I was getting an annoying chirping noise and traced it down to the inner seal which apparently wasn't fully seated.

 

I had tried to use the shortcut method of installing bearings and seals while the knuckle was still on the car and I unfortunately didn't do a very good job. It's hard to install these inner parts while laying upside down under the wheel well.

 

I've replaced the seal again and hope it's in good and solid this time.