Good info, thanks guys.

Edited September 23, 201213 yr by soobiefreak85
because

It will never run correctly until you get the fast idle screw adjusted properly. On the attached JPEG you want to try to adjust G1 into spec.

 

What is your timing set at?

 

 

Thanks for the info. 8 degrees BTDC, I static timed it after I rebuilt the motor.

The two UFO things sound like the choke pull-off dash pots. If the choke is still installed, but not completely or correctly, and the fast idle screw is off-spec, then the car can die randomly and not be restarted if the choke engages after the engine is warmed up. Make sure the choke is also getting power to heat the internal spring. The car will run fine without the choke once it's warmed up, but the choke can also prevent the car from running if it is not functioning properly. I recommend reinstalling the dash-pots with the orifice restrictor in the vac line, confirm that the mechanicals inside the choke housing are oriented correctly (it can go back together with the cams and pawls mis-oriented), check that the choke gets switched power, and adjust the fast idle screw to spec.

 

I checked the choke for poops and giggles and it is functioning properly. It was running great without the pods, however, I think I will throw them back on there. It seems a lot of the emissions have no value, but these do have value. Once I get those thrown back on there I am gonna mess with the screw again. Thanks.

Soobiefreak85

 

If you can bring the car down here to Corvallis I can tune the carb for you very reasonably (depending on what type of beer you bring:brow:)

 

Just give me a heads up when you wanna come. PM for my phone # and Address.

 

Haha, if I could get it running...I would need to bring it down to you. Wish I could man.

TBI throttle body injection comes on 90 loyales and up and fitts a ea81 or ea82 engines i cut the harness down and put the tbi on have it on my 81 brat with ea81 more power and better throttle reponse and no carb problems has been on it for 10 years no problems

Please excuse my ignorance, but... What is the Meanin' of TBI? ...

 

TBI throttle body injection ...

 

Thank you for your Kind Answer, sometimes I'm Lost on Translation...

 

Sorry for Hijack the Thread.

 

Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Answer, sometimes I'm Lost on Translation...

 

Sorry for Hijack the Thread.

 

Kind Regards.

 

You didnt hijack the thread. Its great to ask questions, thats why this is here... to provide and to get information.

tbi was the best way to fix poopy carbs not the easyest way but works the best the ea81 engines love it

I think when I get the money next year, I will convert over to TBI or throw a weber on there.

 

Was it pretty easy to convert to TBI? What all did you have to do?

It is the stock carb, I eliminated all the emissions crap prior to messing with the screw. It ran great without all that ************, and cleaned up the engine bay

 

Everything is capped off with new caps, and I put new vacuum lines on there. The few that are left.

 

There is one port on the rear of the carb (IIRC it points towards the passenger side of the car and its just to the drivers side of center. it comes out and then has a 90 degree bend on it. That one has to be left open its a vent tube.

 

Other than that, all the rest on a hicrappy carb can be blocked off. Make sure your accelerator pump pivot screw has the spacer washer behind the linkage arm where it screws to the front of the carb. Last time I rebuild mine, I lost that spacer on the floor and didnt realize it until I started the car and it was stuck @ 1500 rpms and would not drop past there. What that spacer does, is allow the arm to pivot, and without the spacer it binds when you let off the throttle

 

 

TBI you need a TBI fuel pump, the wiring harness on the engine bay side, and the under the dash section that runs the ECU (you might as well swap the entire dash, its easier that pulling the harness out of the dash) and then you need the intake. Keep in mind EFI has a baffle in the fuel tank, carb doesnt so keep your tank about 1/4 at all times so that EFI pump dont suck air

 

and you will have to run a wire from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump. I might have forgotten a few things, but I'm sure someone will correct me

i cut down the harness added a mass air flow and high preshure pump and a return line taped into the gauge sender as brat had no return line and had to modify the distributor gear to fitt ea81 and move the coolant hoses on front of manifoild by the thermosat to clear the disstributor anyway thiss works very good on a ea81 i love it i put some pics on my tbi brat thread check it out

While im not very familiar with hitachis, i do understand carbs and how they work. My weber took a fair amount of fiddling to run properly. No off the shelf carb is a bolt on and go affair. But tuned right, it runs circles around the hitachi. Just sayin

 

Actually, it will. Especially if you buy a Weber that is jetted for a Subaru. Your power will increase. Your mileage can also increase. And, if properly tuned will have less emissions and run much cleaner...

Actually, it will. Especially if you buy a Weber that is jetted for a Subaru. Your power will increase. Your mileage can also increase. And, if properly tuned will have less emissions and run much cleaner...

 

Sure its possible...buy a carb, bolt it on and its spot on. But very rare, id think.

 

Jetted for a subaru? Huh? How about jetted for altitude?

 

But yeah, my properly tweaked weber passed emissions (with a hollowed out cat) gets about the same mileage, and runs stronger than stock.

Sure its possible...buy a carb, bolt it on and its spot on. But very rare, id think.

 

Jetted for a subaru? Huh? How about jetted for altitude?

 

But yeah, my properly tweaked weber passed emissions (with a hollowed out cat) gets about the same mileage, and runs stronger than stock.

 

If you buy "new" from the manufacturer and give specific details they will set it up to those specs. Buying "used" will give you the "id think" results...

 

Your comments show your lack of knowledge on the subject at hand.

If you buy "new" from the manufacturer and give specific details they will set it up to those specs. Buying "used" will give you the "id think" results...

 

Your comments show your lack of knowledge on the subject at hand.

 

Ignorant about buying new carbs, i may be. Im more familiar with getting used, abused and poorly tuned crap, and turning it into good equipment.

I have frugality and mechanical aptitude, and experience.

You tell the guy what you need, cut a check, and bolt it on. To each his own

Edited October 17, 201213 yr by spazomatic

Ignorant about buying new carbs, i may be. Im more familiar with getting used, abused and poorly tuned crap, and turning it into good equipment.

I have frugality and mechanical aptitude, and experience.

You tell the guy what you need, cut a check, and bolt it on. To each his own

 

You also have assumption. I have never bought a new carb. I have tuned every Weber to perform the way it should. And, have tuned most of my friends used ones as well.

 

My point was simply that a new carb can be the answer to his problem. Simply because it appears he does not have the apptitude to do the carb work he has started. Eliminating vaccuum lines just to "clean up" the engine compartment is not the correct approach. You eliminate lines from other components that have been removed. Usually, a hitachi carb needs the things he has removed to operate correctly. Point proven by this thread! If you want to "clean up" the engine bay start with the carb. Get rid of it and install something that will improve performance and drivability.

You also have assumption. I have never bought a new carb. I have tuned every Weber to perform the way it should. And, have tuned most of my friends used ones as well.

 

My point was simply that a new carb can be the answer to his problem. Simply because it appears he does not have the apptitude to do the carb work he has started. Eliminating vaccuum lines just to "clean up" the engine compartment is not the correct approach. You eliminate lines from other components that have been removed. Usually, a hitachi carb needs the things he has removed to operate correctly. Point proven by this thread! If you want to "clean up" the engine bay start with the carb. Get rid of it and install something that will improve performance and drivability.

 

It seems that the only thing we are disagreeing about here...is whether a new carb will just bolt on and go, without any final tuning.

I suggested earler that he just buy a weber, since the stock carb is ok at best, and needs emissions equipment to run properly.

It seems that the only thing we are disagreeing about here...is whether a new carb will just bolt on and go, without any final tuning.

I suggested earler that he just buy a weber, since the stock carb is ok at best, and needs emissions equipment to run properly.

 

I guess so. I have seen them bolt on and go. A couple of friends did just that on wheelers and never looked back.

You also have assumption. I have never bought a new carb. I have tuned every Weber to perform the way it should. And, have tuned most of my friends used ones as well.

 

My point was simply that a new carb can be the answer to his problem. Simply because it appears he does not have the apptitude to do the carb work he has started. Eliminating vaccuum lines just to "clean up" the engine compartment is not the correct approach. You eliminate lines from other components that have been removed. Usually, a hitachi carb needs the things he has removed to operate correctly. Point proven by this thread! If you want to "clean up" the engine bay start with the carb. Get rid of it and install something that will improve performance and drivability.

 

I plan on going with a new weber anyway, when I get the money. Just about everything is new anyway, I want to continue down that path. I agree, I dont have no where near the experience tinkering with carbs as many folks on here...that is why I was asking for help. I find it insulting that you thought I just popped the hood and just started slicing everything I could find and threw it in trash. That was not the case. It was my understanding that hitachi's will run just fine without ALL the emissions stuff, I was misinformed. MOST of it really isnt needed at all (i.e. AAV and charcoal canister)...that is commonly not needed with any car. After I eliminated MOST, it runs better actually. The issue I had was mostly in the adjustment screw that took time and patience for me to get adjusted right. I was not used to messing with something so long, as most all of my experience is in fuel injection. I appreciate your experience and advise, however, assuming we (Spazomatic and I) are just idiots and insulting us was not appropriate. We all have different levels of education and experience in different areas, together we all help each other keep our beloved subies on the road.

 

Wes

I guess so. I have seen them bolt on and go. A couple of friends did just that on wheelers and never looked back.

 

Ive also seen them bolt on and go....with black, gray, or brown smoke, poor driveability and lousy emissions. On a wheeler, road manners and emissions dont matter so much. The vehicles i wheel need to behave on the road, as well.

 

Anyway, Im going to leave this poor beaten dead horse alone now.

 

Hey soobiefreak, good choice opting for the weber. I bandaided my hitachi for a while too and it ran good...but in the end, the weber is so much better.

And when it comes down to dialing it in (if it needs it:horse:) well we can help you out with that too.

Happy trails!

, since the stock carb is ok at best, and needs emissions equipment to run properly.

 

This just isn't true.

 

4WD models don't even have any "emmissions equipment" attached to the carb.

 

The only thing that the Hitachi carb "needs" is the ACV, which supplies air to the Slow and Main Air bleeds. And that can be replaced with a "T" fitting, as long as you keep the proper oriffices from inside the lines. It's there to supply clean, filtered air from the aircleaner to the bleeds.....rather than have the air bleeds open to dusty air from engine bay.

 

The rest of the lines go to EGR, Disty advance, and Evap canister and solenoid.......that stuff can be deleted.....although there is no real reason to. But the Hitachi will run fine without that stuff.

 

Hitachi carbs get bad rap......mostly because most people just don't understand how carbs work, and get frustrated looking at hoses they don't understand.

 

You are all welcome to send me any unwanted Hitachi carbs.