I have a 95 Subaru FWD 1.8l and it has an oil leak somewhere and I'm curious as to what the common spots are, before i climbed under it my friend said its dripping from timing cover and oil pan gasket, i get under there and there is indeed oil there but its also all over the heads, so that is putting me towards valve covers, but any information on the common spots I should check first would be greatly appreciated

 

P.S It's not bad unless its starting to get worse, i have the car for almost a year and every time i change my oil i check it first and the dipstick is still close to the high indicator, i never check my oil anymore because its never had any issues, I started using 5w-30 synthetic, and head it may cause leaks on old cars due to the old gaskets

Valve cover gaskets - very common and easy job on this motor too. Best to start there anyways since it's common and easy, but it sounds like you did a good job diagnosing it so far.

 

Doubtful the oil is "causing it", except that you're using very thin oil, that may leak more. But either way the problem is a leaking gasket or seal and was likely to start leaking at some point anyway. A properly installed gasket is not going to leak.

 

The next time a timing belt job is done you will want to replace (or be ready to if they're wet at all) the cam seals, cam cap orings, crank seal and reseal the oil pump. Ebay timing kits are $100 for all the pulleys and timing belt, can't beat that.

Thanks, I don't know when, if ever the timing belt was changed i have a folder with receipts from previous owners and i don't see that it was ever done so maybe i should do that soon, also my engine makes a ticking noise when its cold is this common? Sometimes it takes awhile but it eventually stops. Could my valves possibly need to be adjusted?

Valves are hydraulic. No adjustment.

 

Replace the belt as soon as you can. Although, the engine is non-interference so not too bad if it breaks.

 

But yeah, reseal the Cams, Crank, oil pump o-ring, Valve covers, and the o-rings on the cam end cap(pass side, rear) and cam extension(sensor mount part, drivers front)

 

Water pump, Timing belt, and Idlers get all new.

The oil pressure switch can leak sometimes also. It's right under the alternator. $7 at NAPA. There is an adapter that goes into the block before the sensor that may come out with the sensor.

Okay will do, does the type of eBay timing kit matter or are they pretty much all the same?

 

Does anyone have an idea on the ticking noise? Its always there its just something that worries me the cars gonna break down, I mean its not new, so there's just that feeling its gonna make its final tick and a lot more noise is gonna come mixed with smoke and a non working motor lol

was doing thiss reseal on a ej 22 yesterday x2 cam seals x2 camseal plug orings x1 valve cover set x1 updated pcv plate x1 piston pin oring x1 rear main seal x1 front crank seal x1 oil filler oring and that should do it the single most important one is the cam plug orings as they crack and leak badly

Okay will do, does the type of eBay timing kit matter or are they pretty much all the same?

 

Does anyone have an idea on the ticking noise? Its always there its just something that worries me the cars gonna break down, I mean its not new, so there's just that feeling its gonna make its final tick and a lot more noise is gonna come mixed with smoke and a non working motor lol

 

The ticking is most likely the hydraulic lash adjusters. Over time they will stop functioning due to being dirty. As far as cleaning them I am not sure as I haven't had to do it yet. I'm sure someone on here can point you in the right direction.

Thanks, I'll just pour some seafoam in my oil and see if that does something, it supposed to "free sticky lifters" so I'm guessing its the same thing

Good ol' MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) usually does a good job of getting rid of the clicking!

The oil pan seal almost never leaks. Oil runs down from many other places and gives the appearance that the pan is leaking, but the leaks are usually from valve covers, cam plugs, and the separator plate.

 

Ticking at startup is the hydraulic lifters. MMO works well to clean them and clear up the ticking. Also switch to Valvoline High Mileage oil and a decent filter like Purolator or Subaru black or blue.

 

When you replace the valve cover gaskets check the torque on the rocker shaft assembly bolts.

the lifters tick because the front crank seal is dryed up and pulls air into the oil pump change the front crank seal first

@ivan - What does changing the front crank seal consist of? Because this is the only car i have and i need it to get to n from school

 

@fairtax - whats the torque supposed to be at? Do i jus check it for them not to be loose or do i loosen them and retighten them to spec?

 

Also since its my daily driver should i just find a workin motor for cheap and rebuild it all new gaskets and seals and just drop it in? My motor just got to 155k, idk how much life there expected to have so yea, if its anything like my nissan ill let it ride because it didnt give me any true problems till nearly 220k, and that car had alot of high revving abuse, my subaru barely gets any

Edited October 14, 201213 yr by Diablo9420